Kolumbien

In Kolumbien und Mexiko

Seraina — Fri, 09 Feb 2024 19:37:54 +0000

Vom Avocado-Malheur

„Wächst in einem Land die Avocado, dann können wir uns vorstellen, dort länger zu bleiben.“ So unser Motto. Wir sind in San Gil, mitten in Kolumbien. Unser Apartment liegt nur wenige Fussminuten vom Stadt-Zentrum entfernt. Durch die Strassen schlendernd entdecken wir Frauen mit ihren Strassenständen, die Avocados anbieten, welche pro Stück über ein Kilo wiegen. Riesentönder. „Leeecker.“

In über einer Woche werden unsere Freunde des Hostels La Pacha zurück aus den Ferien sein. Solange wollten wir auf sie warten. Unser Apartment ist gemütlich.

Faszinierende Pflanzen Kolumbiens. Hier der Fackelingwer

Könnte eine Ceiba sein.

Grosses Fensterblatt, bei uns eine im Vergleich klitzekleine Zimmerpflanze

Spiralkaktus – wieso der sich plötzlich dreht? No plan!

Und eine Woche später sind die Freunde da, und wir besuchen sie auf ihrer neuen Finca. Sie ist weit ausserhalb, man hat Sicht in die Ferne und viel Platz unter vielen Mandarinenbäumen. Etliche Jurten, Doms und sogar ein kleines Erdhaus bieten sie an. Der Platz ist grösser als der alte Standort, dort wo wir vor rund 10 Jahren als eine der ersten Volontäre arbeiteten.

Es sind schöne Tage auf der Finca und wir lernen so einige neue Gesichter kennen. Doch auch dann ist mal Schluss und wir buchen uns einen Bus nach Santa Marta.

Am Abend des Abschieds dann erreichen wir mit dem verspäteten Taxi noch ganz knapp den Busbahnhof, kurz vor Abfahrt des Buses nach Santa Marta. Mit Rucksäcken, Decken und Jacken bewaffnet – die Klimaanlagen wird normalerweise auf Kühlschranktemperatur gestellt während der Fahrt – warten wir. Doch der Bus soll nicht mehr kommen. Er wurde abgesagt, eine Demonstration verhindert seine Durchfahrt. Es ist nun um die 8 Uhr abends und bereits dunkel. Wir suchen uns übers Internet (ja, die moderne Technik 🙂 ) ein Hostel in San Gil. Also zurück, einchecken, Bier trinken. Das Ticket für den nächsten Tag haben wir bereits.

Im neu entdeckten Lokalrestaurant mitten in der Stadt bekommen wir am nächsten Tag unser wunderbares Mittagessen, die sehr reiche Suppe Kolumbiens, Reis, Linsen, je nach Bedarf Fleisch und etwas Salat. Durch die Strassen schlendernd entdecken wir Frauen mit ihren Strassenständen, die Avocados anbieten, welche pro Stück über ein Kilo wiegen. Riesentönder. „Leeecker.“ Wir kaufen uns eine. Nein, eine ganze halbe. Eine ganze wäre uns zu viel Avocado. Zuhause beschmieren wir unser Toastbrot mit Avocado und essen Käse dazu. Dazu ein Bier. Jetzt sind wir bereit für den Bus. Also zurück zum Busbahnhof.

Und ja, heute fährt der Bus. Wir wollen das Gepäck den Chauffeuren abgeben, um es in den grossen Kofferraum seitlich des Buses verstauen zu lassen. Hinter uns türmen sich Taschen und Rollkoffers. Der Chauffeur klappt die Seitentür auf. Der Raum ist bereits zum Platzen voll. Zu dritt versuchen sie die Tür wieder zu schliessen. Auf der anderen Seite hat es noch eine solche Tür. Die Chauffeure wissen es bereits. Doch vielleicht ist ja unterdessen das viele Gepäck etwas geschrumpft. Es ist nicht, auch auf der anderen Seite hat kein Täschchen mehr Platz. Die drei sonst sehr schlauen Kerle schauen uns mit leeren Augen an. Kein Platz. Sie stehen da, verloren in einer Welt, wo es keine Lösungen mehr gibt. „Können wir unseren Rucksack nicht in den Gang legen?“, Simons Frage wird sofort bejaht, froh um den intelligenten Einwand. Der Gang des Buses ist bald nicht mehr begehbar. Hoffentlich kippt der ganze Bus nicht auf der Strecke um.

Mir ist schlecht. Und wenn ihr nicht alles wissen wollt, dann geht zum nächsten Kapitel.

Der Bus schlängelt sich durch die Serpentinen der Berge weg von San Gil. Die Stadt liegt auf etwa 1114 Meter. Logisch hat es also auch da Bergstrassen in Richtung Meer. Mir ist schlecht.

Anscheinend hat es heute viel Verkehr. Der Bus wartet auf einer Stelle über eine Stunde bis er weiterfahren kann. Das sei nichts, sagt eine Busmitfahrerin, das letzte Mal warteten sie einen ganzen Tag. Mir ist schlecht.

Wir fahren wieder an. Mir ist schlecht. Ich kotze. In meine Hand. Auf meinen Pullover auf meinem Schoss. Auf die Decke über meinen Knien. Die Flüssigkeit ist schleimig grün wie ein Ghostbusters-Gespenst. Mir ist nun etwas weniger schlecht. Ich bin zuerst sprachlos über das Malheur, raffe dann all meine verkotzten Kleider zusammen und steige über all die Gepäckstücke im Gang bis ganz nach hinten des Buses. Dort ist die Toilette. Doch sie hat kein Licht. Die Taschenlampe ist noch an unserem Platz ganz vorne. Ich steige wieder alles zurück, hole die Lampe und steige wieder ganz nach hinten. Die meisten Leute dösen, und kriegen nichts mit von den verkotzten, stinkenden Kleidern. Das Bad ist eng. Zum Glück habe ich nicht viel Licht und sehe nicht wie dreckig es wohl ist. Der Druckwasserhahn läuft – solange man drückt. Es ist super anstrengend ein Kleidungsstück zu putzen, während man ein anderes noch hält, damit es nicht auf den wahrscheinlich verpissten Boden kommt und der Hahn nur auf Drücken läuft. Und der eklige Schleim, der meine Kehle hochkam, ist wie Leim auf den Kleidern, kaum abwaschbar. Irgendwie schaffe ich es. Doch den Pullover stecke ich sofort in einen Plastiksack, er stinkt. Einen weiteren Plastiksack mache ich bereit für die Weiterfahrt. Denn mir ist irgendwie immer noch schlecht. Es geht nicht lange, und die restliche Avocado schleimt heraus. Der Sack hat nun bestimmt ein Kilo Gewicht erhalten. Doch ich bin noch nicht fertig. Erst als nur noch Luft aus dem Magen kommt, bin ich fertig. Müde nicke ich ein, mit dem vollen Sack in der Hand, zu Müde, um ihn ganz hinten im Bus zu entsorgen.

Anstelle von 12 Stunden sind es 17 Stunden Horrorfahrt. Als wir endlich in Santa Marta und Palomino in unserem Zuhause ankommen, sind wir beide so fertig, dass wir trotz ganz nächtlichem Höllenlärms der Palominer Wochenend-Partyboxen und Billardbars um die Ecke durchschlafen.

Fazit: Avocados esse ich keine mehr seit über einem Monat. Mir wird schlecht davon nur beim Gedanken daran.

Vom Bananatree-Glück

Unser Haus steht noch, doch es gibt viiiiiel Arbeit. Wir sind insgesamt fünf Wochen im Bananatree in Palomino. So Einiges ist kurz vor dem Gefressen werden hier und so haben wir auch einiges zu tun. Das Eingangstor zum Beispiel. Ein kleiner Stoss an den rechten Pfosten und das ganze Tor kippt wohl um. Wir testen nicht, ob das Gefühl stimmt, stellen aber José an, uns eine neue Tür zu bauen.

Die Haustiere in Bananatree: Kiki,

Cumbia und

Arequipe

Die Kokospalme auf unserem Land muss gefällt werden.

Super gefährlich!!

Der Haag wird bereits von den Nachbarn mit dicken Ästen gestützt. Das kann doch nicht sein. Auch, wenn es den Nachbarn nichts ausmacht, wie sie uns mitteilen. Wir kaufen vier neue Pfosten, buddeln je ein Loch von einem Meter Tiefe und pflanzen die Pfosten ein. Dann ziehen wir mehrere Linien Stacheldraht von Pfosten zu Pfosten und binden den bestehenden Haag daran fest, damit dieser wieder aus eigener Kraft steht. Das Haus vergiften wir, da die Termiten und andere Holzfresser bereits am Futtern sind. Bäume und Sträucher werden zurechtgestutzt. Es sieht wieder einigermassen bewohnt aus. Nun fehlen nur noch neue Mieter. Oder sollen wir diesen Stein am Fuss einfach verkaufen?

Auf Vogeltour eines guten Freundes (palominobirding). Wochen später versuchten wir uns an die Namen zu erinnern, ohne Erfolg. Ich hoffe das stimmt so einigermassen. Dies ist der Eichhörnchen-Kuckuck. Je nach Gefahr, macht er andere Laute. Die Kogis erkennen die Laute und wissen somit, welche Gefahr in der Nähe lauert.

Blauflecktangare

Rotbrustfisher - grösster Eisvogel auf dem Amerikanischen Kontinent

Schwarzkehlspecht

Blaukehl-(oben) und Tovisittich (unten)

Rotkappenspecht

Gelbkopfkarakara

Halsband-Arassari aus der Familie der Tukane

Könnte das Weibchen des Rotkehl-Saphirkolibris sein.

Wir gehen übers Wochenende nach Minca, einem ruhigen Ort etwas in den Bergen, um nachzudenken, um die weiteren Pläne für Bananatree zu schmieden. Vom Verkauf des Hauses nehmen wir nach einigem hin und her wieder Abstand. Es ist noch nicht Zeit dafür. Ein Mieter soll her, und das erhaltene Geld in Bananatree investiert werden. Unsere Freunde Maria Claudia und Roberto, die ein Hostel ganz in der Nähe aufgebaut haben, sind sofort Feuer und Flamme. Sie würden sich gerne um das Haus kümmern, es verbessern und danach vermieten. Wir sind froh, haben wir zwei so begeisterte Aufpasser gefunden.

Welcome to Mexiko!

Work, Work, Work, La, La, La

Wenn man arbeitet, hat man nicht viel zu erzählen. Uns geht es momentan genauso. Wir sitzen in einem Apartment in Oaxaca. Das Quartier ist etwas ausserhalb des Zentrums, es ist ruhig hier. Im Gegensatz zum wilden Treiben Kolumbiens – oder besser gesagt Palominos – müssen wir uns zuerst wieder daran gewöhnen, an diese Ruhe. Manchmal vermissen wir Palomino für einen kurzen Moment, doch dann lässt man die Dorfmusik Palominos im Hirn abspielen, und man ist sogleich wieder froh um diese Ruhe. Es ist nicht die Dorfmusik, die einem fehlt, es ist das menschliche Treiben, das Klimpern, das Klirren, das Geschwätz, dass es lebt, man fühlt sich nicht alleine. Es ist das Gefühl eines Campinglagers, es läuft stets etwas. Hier in Oaxaca, Mexiko, hat jeder ein Haus mit dicken Wänden. Es ist ruhig. Und doch geniessen wir auch diese Ruhe, um uns auf unsere Arbeit und uns selbst konzentrieren zu können und nicht immer von äusseren Einflüssen abgelenkt zu werden.

Agave-Felder

Oaxaca ausserhalb

Es ist auch trocken hier. Laut unserer langjährigen Freundin Gina, die im selben Konstrukt lebt, sinkt die Luftfeuchtigkeit an diesen Tagen auf 20 % tief. Das ist wenig. Wir spüren es an den Händen, das ständige Gefühl, man hat Papierhaut, die bald reisst. Man will sie schmieren, bis sie wieder bewegbar und saftig wird. Man spürt es am ständigen Durst nach Wasser. Sogar das Wasser ist hier knapp. Alle drei Wochen soll es kommen, um die 10-tausend-Liter Zisterne zu füllen. Doch manchmal dauert es 4-5 Wochen. Verhältnisse wie in unserem Palomino, Kolumbien, nur anders, da in einer modernen Stadt.

Oaxaca ist sehr vorbildlich. Der Müll wird getrennt. Zweimal die Woche kommt je die nicht-organische und die organische Müllabfuhr. Das heisst, viermal die Woche bimmelt es bei Sonnenaufgang durch die Strassen, was etwa so klingt, wie das Glocken-Geläut, wenn eine Kuh vor Freude über die Wiese galoppiert. Dann weiss man, der Müllabfuhr-Pickup steht an der nächsten Strassenecke. Dann packt man seine paar Tüten Müll und trifft sich mit den anderen Quartierbewohnern bei dieser städtischen Müllabgabe. Glas, Metall und sogar Papier werden getrennt. Trennt man das nicht selber, machen die Angestellten es später. Doch Respekt muss sein, vor einem Job, den man nicht selber machen will, und wir hoffen, auch alle unsere Nachbarn trennen den Müll bereits vorab selber. Diese frühe Müllabfuhr bezahlt die Stadt, für uns ist sie also gratis. Trinkgeld zu geben, ist einem selbst überlassen. Durch den Tag gibt es private, jedoch eher teure Müllabfuhren, die ihren Weg durch die Stadt bimmeln.

Spaziergang im Nationalpark Benito Juàrez

Ausblick auf Oaxaca

Oaxaca hat sehr gepflegte Gärten und Strassenrand-Pflanzen. Das fällt sofort auf. Ob zu einem Quadrat oder einer Kugel geschnitten, oder einfach nur schön herausgeputzt, hier wuchert nichts. Kein Müll liegt herum und verfängt sich in den Dornen der Büsche. Nicht mal auf den etlichen Agave-Äckern. Die Landschaft ist für mich die des Mexikos, wie man es sich vorstellt. Karge Ebenen, ein paar dornige Sträucher, Agave-Felder, die für die Mezcal-Herstellung verwendet werden, in der Ferne felsige Erhöhungen, Hunde und Esel, Staub und Trockenheit. Oaxaca hat mir schon immer gefallen. „Der Tod ist nah und doch sind wir am Leben.“

Unsere Tage verbringen wir arbeitend. Unser neuer Print-on-Demand Shop GRAJF braucht Aufmerksamkeit. Wir sind nun so weit, dass wir bezahlte Werbung schalten können. Während ich letzte Fehler auf der Webseite korrigiere und Werbungsanzeigen erstelle, taucht Simon ein in die abstrakte Welt des Werbe-Online-Marketings, der Werbe-Kampanien-Erstellung und des Werbunganzeigen-Testens.

Zwischendurch treffen wir uns mit Gina auf ein Kaffee oder einen Spaziergang. Auch sie befindet sich in der Umorientierung, versucht, den Kopf über Wasser zu halten und als Übersetzerin Fuss zu fassen um in Zukunft hoffentlich geschmeidig durchs Leben gehen zu können. Der Schweiss tropft aus beiden Büros, zum Glück saugt die Trockenheit Oaxacas wie eine liebkosende Mutter, alles in sich auf.

Neues Rezept: Tepache

Fermentierter Ananas-Saft (oder nach Gina: Knast-Alkohol)

Benötigt wird:

1 reife Ananas (möglichst Bio)
100 Gramm brauner Zucker/Panela
2l Wasser
mind. 4l Behälter (möglichst Ton/Glas)
1-3 Tage Zeit

Man schneidet die Rinde der Ananas in grosse Stücke und fügt diese in den Behälter.

Einen Teil der Ananas-Fleisches kann man nun auch in grosse Stücke schneiden und dazugeben. Ich fügte die halbe Ananas hinzu. (Die Rinde enthält die Gärbakterien, das Fleisch jedoch „nur“ Geschmack.)

Man löst den Zucker (oder die Panela) in 2l Wasser auf. (Das Wasser muss ausgekühlt werden, falls es dafür erhitzt wurde) Wenn man will, kann man etwas Gewürze, wie Zimt, Nelken hinzufügen, da ist man künstlerisch absolut frei.

Das alles kommt nun in den Behälter. Wichtig ist, dass die Ananas-Stücke nicht die Wasseroberfläche berühren, da sie sonst zu schimmeln beginnen. Ich hatte einen breiten Behälter und konnte die Stücke mit einem Teller ins Wasser drücken.

Der Behälter wird geschlossen, oder mit einem Tuch abgedeckt. Zweimal pro Tag wird die Suppe durchgerührt und schwimmende Ananasstückchen abgesiebt.

Nach 24 Stunden bei gemässigten Temperaturen, fängt das Ganze an zu leben. (Ist es sehr warm, wird es schon früher reagieren, ist es sehr kalt, wird es gar nicht reagieren, auch Bakterien brauchen etwas Wärme) Man kann nun testen, ob es einem schon geschmacklich passt. Maximal wartet man 72 Stunde. Zum Abstellen des Gärprozesses schüttet man das Ganze durch ein Sieb in ein Gefäss und stellt dieses dann kühl (Kühlschrank). Es kann mit Wasser verfeinert werden. Ich werde noch etwas Limone hinzufügen und sehen, was es nach meinem Gusto sonst noch braucht. Ich denke, ich nehme es bei Stunde 48. Es hat bereits etwas Schaum gebildet, den ich stets mit dem Sieb entferne und der Saft sieht bereits fein schlackig aus. Nach dem gestrigen Probiertest nach 24 Stunden war das Getränk bereits leicht fermentiert, doch für mich ist es immer noch etwas zu süss und zu wenig blubberig.

Im Wikipedia steht über Tepache:
„Tepache ist ein traditionelles mexikanisches Getränk, das oft in mexikanischen Gefängnissen hergestellt und getrunken wird. Ananas, brauner Zucker (Piloncillo) und Wasser sind die Hauptbestandteile von Tepache…“
Gina hatte also recht mit der Bemerkung über den Knast-Alkohol. Und ich dachte schon ich fände hier im Wikipedia eine schöne Geschichte über die heilige Entstehung, bei der in einem indigenen Volk Mexikos der Dorfälteste, Mister Tepache, das Getränk braute. 😀

Seincu

Simon — Fri, 25 Nov 2022 12:59:08 +0000

Semillero de Integracion Cultural

"Nurturing cultural integration"

In this article, we would like to introduce you to Seincu, a non-profit organization in Colombia that cares for neglected children in the village.

Since August 2020, Felipe, the founder of Seincu, and many children live in our Cabaña Bananatree, where they learn, play, make music, eat and laugh.

Who we are

We are a non-profit organization that carries out recreational, educational, and cultural activities with children of different ages in the Divino Niño neighborhood in Palomino, La Guajira.

Our Objective

To nurture cultural integration, providing children with tools and expanding their perceptions and projections.

Provide various personal development tools that can enhance the talents and skills of each participant.

What we do

Through academic, recreational, and cultural activities, we support the personal development and integration into society of children aged 4 to 12. With the help of volunteers specialized in different areas, we provide school support, nutritional assistance, and cultural activities that stimulate their creativity and help them reach their full potential.

Why we do it

Palomino belongs to a rural area in the department of La Guajira and, despite recent tourism development, has a high rate of multidimensional poverty. This is evident in the lack of access to general education, food, and health insecurity, and the prevalence of domestic violence, both physical and psychological.

The children we work with come from very vulnerable backgrounds, so our volunteer program aims to create a space where participants learn about different tools that will help them in their personal, creative and professional development.

By teaching the children to work in the vegetable garden and cook in a clay oven, we ensure that they receive nutritional supplementation while teaching them a new trade.

Our Achievements

April 2020 - The outbreak of the pandemic prompts us to begin distributing food to families at markets and at the Foundation House with the financial support of the Founder and community assistance of the Founder.
June 2020 - The process of formalization as a foundation begins. Our activities include puppet theater and painting classes, and reading and writing promotion.
July 2021 - We resume volunteering, with a special focus on organic building and permaculture.
August 2021 - With the support of a team of educators, we resume school-based care for children.
September 2021 - A general practitioner joins the team as a volunteer.
November 2021 - The alliance with Empatados is consolidated to provide psychological support to participating children.

How we see our future

Thanks to the recent partnership with Empatados, we have managed to formalize and professionalize our approach. We currently provide a large number of children with a daily lunch in conjunction with various educational and school support activities.

In hopes of expanding our team of volunteers, we currently manage a Workaway profile through which candidate selection is conducted with the support of the Empatados team.

Our Team

Beneficiaries

Moments and experiences

Social Media and Contact

Seincu on Instagram

Emails to

seincu.palomino@gmail.com

Support

Do you want to support Seincu financially or in another way? We will tell you how. Contact us: SimonSeraina@nimmerwo.ch

Seincu, the children, and we thank you very much!

"Be the change you want to see in the world."

Mahatma Gandhi

San Agustín bis Ecuador

Simon — Wed, 13 Jun 2018 11:28:00 +0000

Colombia – Epic Journey 2016-2018 Part XVII – Last Part

San Agustín

For almost a week now, we have been enjoying the beautiful San Agustín in southern Colombia, which is composed of picturesque mountain and river landscapes wrapped in coffee bushes. The weather is adding to the beauty, as sun, clouds, and rain showers conjure up a surreal play of light and shadow on the lush green hills.

We have rented a small guest room in the town. From here, we explore San Agustin's surroundings on foot. We hike through the deep gorges of the Rio Magdalena which flows right across Colombia before pouring into the Caribbean Sea in Barranquilla, just three hours from Palomino. We marvel at the many picturesque waterfalls, including the Salto del Mortiño which plunges 100 meters into the depths.

San Agustín is famous mainly because monumental stone sculptures have been found here. They come from a prehistoric culture of which not much is known. The statues were built between 200 B.C. and 700 A.D. and can be seen today in the San Agustín Archaeological Park.

We save the trip for a while and visit the many smaller attractions in the area instead. Sculptures are often found near the river, such as La Chaquira, four kilometers outside San Agustín.

Other excavation sites are located on the other side of the Magdalena Gorge, such as Alto de los Idolos which features several large stone sculptures.

The wondrous landscape around San Agustín, similar to Palomino or, say, Valle Sagrado in Peru, attracts nature-loving people who buy land and build their homes here.

We find one of these people on one of our extended walks. Cesar waves to us from his garden. He is Colombian, about 65, and a passionate gardener. He shows us his green kingdom, which he cares for daily, and nourishes him in return.

He shows us his salads and the huge cardamon that grows exquisitely here. He tells us that he has also hosted traveling volunteers who have helped in the garden. We are to let him know if we would like to do the same.

Another special resident of San Agustín, with whom we spend a few days, tells us about the Tatacoa Desert, about a five-hour drive north of San Agustín. According to his description, it must be a typical red desert, where nature has created its own stone sculptures with the help of wind and weather, where cacti grow and the Milky Way illuminates the night. It sounds like Utah or Arizona, just smaller.

We can hardly imagine it since we are standing here in the green mountains. This desert is supposed to be that close? That's what we want to find out.

Tatacoa

We take a shared cab to Neiva and from there a bus to the village of Villavieja. Most of the visitors hop on a kind of tuk-tuk cab from here to an accommodation in the desert. We don't bother with that and hike the six kilometers.

As we walk, the landscape becomes more barren and redder. We pass an observatory and soon find our desert accommodation where we rent hammocks for two nights.

After only a few hours of travel, we find ourselves in a completely different world compared to San Agustín. Here, too, we first set out on foot to explore the bizarre desert and rocky landscape. Thereby, we take many, many photos.

Although it is cloudy, we book a visit to the observatory at night. There, through a telescope, the planets of our solar system are presented to us whenever the sky clears. Not so easy to get a good glimpse when the whole group of 12 or 14 people wants to look through it.

The next day we rent a bike and ride a little deeper into the desert. On the way, we observe a film crew on set shooting a Jesus Christ scene. Strange, we suddenly find ourselves among Romans and Jesus' followers in the middle of Colombia.

In the Valle de los Xilópalos, the sandstone was washed out in a very peculiar way. The figures that were created resemble a ghost so much that some jokers even gave them a smiley face.

After two nights in the hammock, we ride back to San Agustín. Because there we have not seen everything yet by far.

Back in San Agustín

We haven't visited the Sculpture Park, the large archaeological site, in San Agustín yet, and we're making up for it now. We photograph what we can because each figure has its own character. In the park, we read that they are demons or gods created by the San Agustín culture some 2000 years ago.

Many have been excellently restored and although they are ancient, you can make out lots of details in faces and bodies. We also see tombs decorated with animal figures or other characters. The site is large, and we spend most of a day in it.

Putumayo

Finally, it is time to move on. Although we have heard that the Putumayo province in the very south of Colombia is rough, our next destination is Mocoa. At the moment there are presidential elections in Colombia which means that in certain parts of the country, like Putumayo, some politicians are being executed again.

We think that it does not concern us tourists and drive anyway - and end up in the middle of the jungle.

It will be a short visit because we don't have too much time left. It is worthwhile in all respects, however. In a very simple accommodation without electricity, we live like Tarzan in the jungle. It would have been tempting to find a curandero, a shaman, who would perform an ayahuasca ceremony with us. This is what the Putumayo is known for.

When we arrive at the lodging, the owner tells us that they had just held a ceremony yesterday. Maybe there would be another one soon. I interpret this as a sign that there is no need to attend a ceremony at the moment.

Instead, Seraina and I hike alone into the jungle, on paths that still belong to the land of the lodge but still lead quite deep into the forest.

There we find a clearing where a simple hut, cooking, and fireplace have been built; obviously for ayahuasca and similar ceremonies.

Nearby is the "Ojo de Dios" (the Eye of God). Here a clear jungle stream flows through some rapids and pools where we can bathe all to ourselves.

Cleansed and ready for the last adventure of this trip, we emerge from the jungle.

On to Ecuador

From Mocoa we reach Pasto via "the most dangerous road in Colombia". The road is indeed spectacular. It winds over a gravel road out of the jungle up to the plain of the Andes. Water flows over the road which is surely swept away by floods every now and then - taking everything with it. And we jammed between the other passengers in the minibus.

After, I can't remember, five, six, seven hours, we finally arrive in Pasto, where we fall into bed, dead tired. The next day it is only a stone's throw to the border.

Here we are expected by a long, looooong line of people. We are alarmed. It won't take hours to get into Ecuador, but days!

We stamped out relatively quickly, but how should we get into Ecuador now? We walk along the queue that winds all the way around the customs building with no end in sight. They are Venezuelan refugees who have already spent days and nights on the bus to get further to Ecuador or Peru.

One woman tells me that she and her family, huddled on the ground with other people, have been waiting in line here since yesterday. It is drizzling and cool at these heights. I feel sorry for these people. Driven out of their land that would be so rich.

We are saved once again by our red passport. We are waved through by an official, processed, and sent on our way.

The last stop on our epic journey, which began in the fall of 2016 and is now scheduled to end in June 2018, is Otavalo, an hour north of Ecuador's capital, Quito.

It is a well-known market town that attracts many visitors every weekend. Among many other things, colorful paintings and clothes are offered by the indigenous people living here. It reminds me of Guatemala.

But we didn't come here for that. We want to visit Reto and his family whom we met about three years ago in Canoa on a beach in Ecuador.

He is originally from Switzerland and runs a self-built hotel just outside of town with his wife Anahel and daughter Valentina. We immediately fall in love with their gem with the magnificent view of corn fields, mountains, and in the distance Otavalo on the lake.

Here we spend some quiet days and get used to the Swiss German by talking to Reto.

One more anecdote from the airport in Quito. I am once again cited to the baggage control. With other passengers, I wait my turn. Nervous? Not really. I'm not carrying anything illegal. But I have heard stories that are now flitting through my head again. Did someone smuggle something into my luggage? The officer looks serious. Should I be worried?

I am asked to empty my backpack completely, to open all compartments and show them. When I pick up the one-kilo block of panela wrapped in cling film, he gets suspicious. What is this?

"Panela, handmade and pressed raw sugar," I inform him. It's a good thing they know this kind of sugar here even though I brought it from Colombia.

Nevertheless, he finds it strange that I want to take so much sugar home with me. He pulls out a knife and stabs the sugar block a few times. Probably to make sure that it really isn't heroin and that I don't want to hide anything in the block.

He finds nothing compromising and has to let me go.

Whew! One last small, heart-pounding adventure on the way home to summery Switzerland via Madrid. That should suffice.

For the moment.

The End

Epic Journey 2016-18

Back to Part XVI:

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Back in Bananatree

Simon — Wed, 16 May 2018 15:50:00 +0000

Bananatree Palomino – Epic Journey 2016-2018 Part XVI

After a good 9 months of road tripping through the USA and Mexico, we are back at Bananatree in the Mango Village in mid-March 2018.

Our cottage already had its first guests via Airbnb who were generously taken care of by Karina and Alejo. The vast majority were thrilled with their stay at Bananatree. Only because it was sometimes a bit noisy with the neighbors or someone was not used to the roosters and chickens in the area, there were also a few negative aspects.

But most of them wrote that they would happily come again. Just like us. How excited we are to be back "home"!

The following are excerpts from the diary:

April 2

Palomino is growing rapidly. Every month a new restaurant or hostel. People are building everywhere.

Still, here in Divino Niño, in our neighborhood, we don't take notice. Village life as it has always been.

Sometimes nice and quiet, birds, roosters, neighbors waking up (we even heard howler monkeys the other morning - for the first time ever here).

Sometimes loud and noisy. Divino Niños inhabitants incomprehensibly love to put the volume of their speakers to the max to play their Vallenato music all night long.

The snowy Sierra Nevada, the Palomino river that meets the sea, a melting pot of cultures coming together in this small place: indigenous Kogis, local costeños, hippie artesanos, alternative-living folks, and tourists from all around the globe.

All this is part of Palomino.

We arrived in Palomino two weeks ago and were welcomed home by old and new friends.

In the meantime, we have baked a lot of stuffed and braided bread - for ourselves and for sale (especially braided bread goes down very well with everyone). We have repaired things, planted new plants, discussed Palomino, and planned trips.

The new bedroom should be built soon. The most difficult thing again: getting the materials. We still have about four weeks and want to use them.

April 7

Yesterday and today we sprayed all floors and posts against bugs, so Bananatree will live a little longer.

Next week we should finally start the second bedroom.

Along the way there are always little things to do: Garden, repair something here and there. And of course the "bread business" with our friend Diego. Twice a week we bake the whole day and Diego distributes the bread in the village.

Through him, we have met many interesting people, like the Dutch Laila and Kaspar with their two-year-old child Moos who have been traveling through South America with their camper for a long time and - as it happens to many - got stuck in Palomino.

So we have a dazzling time despite a lot of work and Vallenato noise from next door.

April 18

Yesterday the first, long-awaited rain started. All the dust is washed off the leaves and house roofs. The almost unbearable heat at noon is as if forgotten. I even have to put on a shirt in the evening!

Probably it will continue to rain every day now; the small rainy season in April.

Which means power outages every now and then. That's not bad at all, because the neighbors can't play music without electricity.

The boards are sanded. Tomorrow we can finally start the upper bedroom. Let's see if it will be as easy as I imagine.

Unfortunately, rainy season also means mosquito season. Annoying how they are buzzing around me right now. That's where the electric bat comes in.

Since our old neighbor Maria left, Jorge's family has spread out around us. We remember: Jorge is the carpenter next door who sold us the land and made the entrance gate.

So things have not become quieter. Although there is less swearing since old Maria left (they moved her off to her daughter in town), to compensate, there are more children screaming every year. And at least one of Jorge's daughters is pregnant again.

It's kindergarten over there. I've long since lost track of it all.

Let's see: There's Jorge and his wife Tomasa, then the daughters (about four of them have babies of their own), who range in age from under ten to - what do I know - close to thirty, Jesús (the only son), and two or three more sons-in-law who have recently started living here, too. That makes about, hmm, 15 noses living right next door; in the same space as the two of us.

Yes, it could be quieter.

They already offered us Maria's land for sale. 45 million (about 15 thousand dollars) for a piece of land half the size of the one we bought four years ago for the equivalent of 4 thousand dollars. Not a third of that would I pay.

How much we want to invest in Palomino, I ask myself every now and then.

The place is not that great. Although we have many good friends here and this corner of the world undoubtedly has its magic.

This magic is not always immediately apparent. At first, you might notice the noise and the sometimes annoying lethargy of certain inhabitants of Palomino. It takes a little patience and serenity, inner peace, to let it all sink in. And you get stuck here for months, like us and the Dutch, for example.

Seraina and I call this "taking the palomino step" or "shifting into the palomino gear." It often takes a week or two to be able to do that. Only then do you stop rushing down the road to get from point A to point B. Only then, once you get used to the Palomino lifestyle, do you start to stroll and enjoy the road. Time has taken its Palomino shape.

We both love having our own self-built home where we can do whatever we want. There aren't many rules in Palomino anyway. We're as close to the highly touted freedom as possible.

And the locals welcome the gringos with open arms. Rarely do you hear anything bad said about the rich foreigners who settle here or build a hotel. After all, this means jobs for the local population. They do not profit much though.

They may be able to afford a few more things, but on the whole, they continue to live in their cheap shacks and cement blocks.

They seem to be content with that. And why not? Of course, many things could be better. But that takes time (perhaps a bit more in Palomino than elsewhere). What will Palomino look like in five and in ten years? Will we still be here then?

May 10 - Last day in Palomino

Everything done, almost everything cleaned up and ready to leave. We will never be finished here. I always see something that could still be done.

Therefore it is good to set a point and gain some distance.

The rain was a long time coming. In between, it fell a little, and yesterday full blast. Today it's thundery again, but it doesn't seem to be as heavy.

Yesterday on the way for a bath at the river a bolt of lightning struck right next to us. My heart missed a beat right then!

But the weather is changing constantly and very quickly at the moment. The river has a lot of water again, is brown and amazingly cold. Yes well, up there on over 5000m.a.s.l. prevails the ice age.

Yesterday we had our farewell party. The pizza night was a great success. We slowly got the hang of the clay oven. A little ember is all it takes after it's been properly fired up (for 2, 3 hours) to get a nice crispy and super tasty pizza.

We were showered with compliments!

Tomorrow we fly to Bogotá, from where we want to take the night bus to San Agustín. San Agustín has been on our itinerary for a long time. We are curious to see what awaits us there.

Seraina making "pan relleno", stuffed bread

Karinas dog and cat shelter

Walking the dogs to the beach

Neggy, Karina, Peazy and Alejo

Here is the link to the Bananatree website.Here we present our cabaña. It's not really up to date anymore and the links to the booking site Airbnb don't work because we don't rent it out at the moment.

And following are a few comments from former guests that made us very happy. How nice that we are not the only ones who love our Bananatree but that it sweetened the stay of so many people.

Rated 5 out of 5

Comments

Gabrielle

Februar 2020

Ein kleines Paradies! Es hat alles was man braucht zum glücklich sein! Ein traumhaftes Grundstück mit Palmen,

Bananenbäumen, verschiedenen Pflanzen und eine artenreiche Vogelwelt. Das Cabana ist zum wohlfühlen da.

Und nicht nur das. Es ist eine Augenweide.

Die Lebensmittelgeschäfte sind gut zu Fuss erreichbar. Ebenso das Meer mit seinem schönen, langen Sandstrand.

Kurzum, mein Aufenthalt war leider viel zu kurz, aber ………. ich komme wieder!!

Lukas

Mai 2018

Die Banana Hütte ist eine tolle, süße, selbst gebaute Hütte, wo man sich sehr wohl fühlt. Es ist alles vorhanden was man benötigt! Der Garten ist schön grün und es gibt vieles zu entdecken. Es sind nur wenige Gehminuten zur Ortsmitte, wo man alles bekommt was man braucht. Der Pizza Lehmofen ist top und die Pizza schmeckt daraus köstlich!! Vielen dank für alles!

Nici

August 2018

The tree house is absolutely gorgeous. A really impressive tree house and a wonderful experience. A bit far to walk to to beach but absolutely worth it when traveling with a few friends. Make sure to bring a loooot of mosquito spray and reapply every few minutes. Thanks for having us!

Noah

August 2017

The bananatree cabana is lovely. Except of the noisy neighborhood it is a very nice place to stay and rest. The wood oven is very cool we even made our own delicious pizza. We really enjoyed to stay there. Karina and Alejandro did everything to help us and make our stay comfortable.

We would definitely recommend this place!

Leo

Juli 2020

El lugar de Simon y Seraina es increible! Tuvimos una estancia muy linda, la casa tiene una atmosfera encantadora, una energia muy positiva, bonitos detalles y una vista maravillosa hacia la sierra. Es una casa que tiene todo lo que se pueda necesitar, la cocina super equipada con horno y tambien horno de barro para hacer buenas pizzas! Hay lavadora, baño y duchas grandes y cómodos, y el pequeño espacio con sofa y amacas arriba para relajarse mirando la selva es lo mejor de todo! Tiene una tienda justo en frente y es ubicada en un barrio muy bonito y central, pero parece que uno no esté en Palomino sino en la pura naturaleza, como tiene muchos árboles, plantas y frutas y es un espacio muy privado, de verdad un pequeño paradiso.. Nos enamoramos del Banana Tree in the Mango Village! Mejor lugar en Palomino, volveremos sin duda, gracias por todo!

Kateryna

Februar 2020

Such a lovely place. Charming, clean, definitely different from standard accommodation, feels more like glamping. Would stay here again

Kelly

Januar 2020

We arrived later than anticipated from Tayrona and because we had been without WIFI the few days prior we hadn’t communicated our ETA to Karina. She was kind enough to come at the last minute to introduce herself and put up mosquito nets for us. She is very friendly and she runs a great dog & cat rescue program called Palomino Animal Soul. I highly recommend going on the dog picnic at the beach that she offers if you want to do something unique while also supporting a worthy cause. Bannanatree is a great place to stay. The yard is shaded by banana trees and the 2nd floor is an particularly nice for relaxing. I especially liked that it is right in the community, which is very friendly, rather than on a street of hostels. It’s just a short walk to the main street of restaurants, as well as a nice walk to the beach.

Carolina

Januar 2020

Lo positivo, la buena onda de Karina y Alejo y la ayuda que da este alojamiento a su refugio de perritos, el sitio es pet friendly y puedes cocinar, tiene buenos espacios y ha tratado de construir un lugar contagiado de su magia. Lo negativo mucho ruido de día y de noche de parte de los vecinos. La cabaña está ubicada un poco lejos de la zona de hostales, para ser más exactos está ubicada dentro de la comunidad en un barrio vulnerable. Hay una situación muy triste en el entorno con respecto al tema de educación en el cuidado del medio ambiente, las calles están llenas de basura, hacen quemas y la contaminación auditiva es tenaz, los habitantes de la zona son amables, pero desafortunadamente aman la música a todo volumen y a cualquier hora del día.

Scott

Januar 2020

This was such an amazing space, much quieter than the rest of the town, as with everywhere i’ve been in colombia people are just generally noisy, this is much quieter than most places ive stayed, only complaint is the time confused local cockerels that start their daily shouting around 2 am. Will most certainly stay here again when i next visit colombia. Theres ever a beer shop next door and atleast 4 shops within 2mins walk. Karina couldn’t have been easier to deal with and ever accomodated us arriving a bit earlier than planned. 10/10

Santiago

Dezember 2018

Banana is a magical place, you can tell that a lot of hard work, dedication and love was put into building it. The house will drag you in with its charm for sure. The location is amazing because it’s in the middle of palomino, among the local population. It’s about 20 minutes to the beach and to where all the popular hostels are located. If you’d rather be surrounded by other travelers instead of by local residents, then maybe Banana is not the place for you. Karina and Alejo are very kind, they will give you recommendations of what to do in Palomino and they also do amazing activities themselves, like a walking beach tour and picnic with rescue dogs that they take care of.

Clay oven can work great but you need to make sure to ask for enough leña (fire wood) and coal. We didn’t have enough so it didn’t get hot enough. Just in case there’s a regular oven.

The family that lives next door sells beer and other items, they’re very nice honest warm people so make sure to meet them and they’ll gladly help you out if you need something. Nando, the young teen who lives with them will help you ran errands in case you need something and don’t want to walk all the way back to a store. Just make sure to tip him and get to know him a little bit, he has some great stories to tell.

Make sure you write in the guestbook as well and contribute to the common story of Banana. We will be back soon for sure.

Thank you for the magical days: Roberto and Santiago

Frani

November 2018

a lovely place with a lot of details the open space fits perfectly in the area. even Rüdiger showed up once :). Karina and alejo are lovely persons with a great energy. we had the best pizza in whole south America.

be prepared that your are in the middle of a Palomino neighborhood. so its gone be sometimes a little bit louder surrounded by kids and building houses sounds.

and you are in small village, so amenities are sometimes a little bit rare (no electricity, no gas or water). but you have the wonderful beach just a short walk from the cabana. so you can life with it 😉

Leanne

September 2018

The bananatree is a great little gem in the heart of Palomino! Very unique and gives you a true local Caribbean experience. A 20 minute walk to a the ocean and a 4 minute walk to the local buses to take you to Parque Tayrona, street food, shops and groceries! Super easy to get around!

Hilde

Juli 2018

The banana tree is an amazing cabin! You have lots of space and everything is taken care of and very clean. You can make amazing pizza’s in the real pizza oven and make fresh mango juice from the mango ’s that just fall on the ground. The hosts are really helpfull and will show you everything you need to know about the town.

Maxi

März 2018

Wonderful dog-friendly place in the centre of Palomino not far from the beach. Karina is a great host and so is the tree house, we absolutely recommend staying here!

Emilie

Februar 2018

Lieu formidable, très spacieux bien équipé, douche géante, hôte (Alejandro) pas loin et très disponible. Un four a bois formidable qui nous a permis de faire du VRAI pain!!! (j’ai laissé la levure sur le frigo à vous de jouer!) la terrasse est très agréable , bien ventilée, la chambre est très confortable (ventilateur !) Nous avons passé quelques jours avec notre fils de 4ans, nous regrettons davor dû partir. Nous recommandons cet endroit pour sa tranquilité (loin du bloc des hotels qui sentassent plus près de la mer) et pour son four fameux!

Sergio

Januar 2018

Realmente fue una experiencia maravillosa vivir en la casa del árbol. El lugar esta muy bien equipado para pasar unos días increíbles. Estuvimos alojados tres días y nos hubiera gustado quedarnos más pero ya teníamos otras reservas.

Una experiencia recomendable.

Darwin

Januar 2018

I’m not sure you can find a more unique spot in Palomino. The home is rustic but has all of the accommodations we needed.

Karina and Alejo were very responsive to anything we needed, and the house was a quick walk to the main street and about 10-15 minutes to the beach.

Its location put us close enough to the town’s main attractions while also letting us get away from all the activity at night.

I would definitely stay here again, and recommend it to anyone looking for a comfortable and memorable place to stay in Palomino.

Sander

Januar 2018

Hermoso lugar lleno de magia, puro realismo mágico

Gustavo

Januar 2018

Banana tree is an amazing place to stay in Palomino, peaceful and nice!

Misha

September 2017

This place is amazing. It really feels like a tree house. It is basically constructed out of bamboo and wood, on a piece of property that is really a small banana garden. The amenities are very basic, but this is part of the experience and should be that way. The bathroom/shower space is a work of art and is fun to wake up to. The hosts are fantastic and will tell you everything there is to know about Palomino and other locations and will point you in the right direction for fun activities around the area.

Harriet

August 2017

Banana tree is great. It was really quirky and it’s clear a lot of effort has gone in to designing and building this little coastal retreat. Karina and her partner were really helpful and communicative before we arrived and I’m sure their up and coming restaurant business is going to be hugely successful in the future and we’re pleased to have been some of their first customers. The place was clean and comfortable. It’s in the village so close to the main road which has restaurants, shops and bars, plus main bus routes. It’s about 20minutes walk from the beach which means you’re away from the tourist traps, however, might get woken by cockerels, and the locals get up with the sunrise so be prepared for early starts. This was great for us, because the skies are bluest in the mornings and you can walk down to the beach and see the peaks of sierra Nevada which is incredible. Top tip from Karina: Buy the bug soap from the local shops called nopikex, we managed 4 nights with minimal mosquito damage! There is no WiFi, and the water in the village is supplied on a weekly basis, so once you’re out, that’s it – i.e. If you’re into ecotourism and want a bit of time ‚off-grid‘ this is definitely the place to be. Really relaxed and chilled. We loved it and would stay again in a flash.

Bobby

Juni 2017

I highly recommend both Palomino and the Banana Tree for an extended visit. I wish I could have stayed longer than a week. This rustic home is a work of art, down to its thoughtful construction and handmade lamps. Get to know the neighbors, for they are kind and welcoming. You’re also in very good hands with Karina, who lives nearby and will see to it you’re taken care of – and be sure to say yes to all of her offerings for cooking meals! I hope to return to this magical place soon. It’s a real treasure. Thank you for everything! xo

Bananatree in the Mango Village

The outdoor area (well, actually everything is "outdoor area")

Chillout zone on the upper floor

The room is taking shape

The new bedroom on the upper floor

Epic Journey 2016-18

Back to Part XIV:

Epic Journey 2016-18

Forward to Part XVI:

And here are the links to the house construction articles part 1 and 2

in case you should have missed them 🙂

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Hausbau in Kolumbien Teil 2

Seraina — Wed, 03 May 2017 14:47:00 +0000

Bananatree – Epic Journey 2016-2018 Part V

Have you missed the post „Building a House in Colombia Part 1"? Here you find it.

Back on the construction site

We are entering the final phase. We have about six weeks left until we leave in mid-June to head back to the States. There is still work to be done so that we can leave the house ready to rent out.

Since our return from Central America at the end of March, the appearance of our cottage has changed a lot.

The roof is rainproof, the upper floor Seraina and I finished with wooden boards, while David and his helper cemented the lower floor. We built a rustic staircase, bed, and other furniture.

Since the road in front of our entrance always turned into a mud pond during heavy rains, we piled it up and consolidated it with gravel and sand. Something also had to be done inside against all the rain puddles.

We decided to throw a bunch of sand everywhere to raise the soil a bit and make it drier. So right now there is a lot of sand lying around waiting to be spread.

Also, we're working on a wooden railing upstairs, which takes quite a bit of time and - let's just say - will match the rustic staircase.

Tomorrow we plan to start with the bedroom that we want to build on the lower floor behind the kitchen out of wood and bamboo. The week after next, the clay oven is on the schedule, later the bathroom wall, then the wiring of lights and sockets.

We work on the garden almost every day, although it does nearly everything on its own. What plants grow here! Without our intervention, we always have thick banana bushes. The mangos are still green, but more and more fall from the trees. Besides avocados, we put pineapple, papaya, guanabana, limes, arboles de pan, and more plants and herbs. Thanks to all the water that fell from the sky the last few weeks, everything is shining green and thriving.

Most of the time we are still working as a team of two, only sometimes we need David's advice and help with certain things. We have been able to acquire a lot of knowledge, made acquaintances, learned to throw our innate Swiss sense of punctuality overboard, and be patient.

When someone says, "Yes, I can do that." Then it means, "Let's see what I can do." Or, "Yes, tomorrow night the wood will be here" can mean, "if not this week, maybe the next." Or then, "Can you lend me 20,000?" means something like, "Thanks for the money, can I work it off?"

We talk like that almost every day here. By now we know pretty well where we can get what at how much. It pays to ask at many different places because prices vary a lot. Well, what is very? In Swiss francs not very. But it depends on the amount, then it makes a difference.

We can also count on the support of friends who have made their experiences with construction projects in Palomino. We are glad about this exchange. We could avoid many mistakes and save quite a bit of money.

Every morning at 6.30 we wake up. We don't need an alarm clock, the daylight and the waking neighborhood are enough. After a few Taiji exercises, coffee, and fruit muesli, we start working on whatever is at hand.

The days pass quickly. Immediately it is lunchtime; either we cook something ourselves if there is nothing left from the last dinner, or we quickly go to a corner restaurant, where a strengthening soup, coconut rice, and fried fish or meat is waiting for us.

At noon it is usually too hot. Until about 2 o'clock we allow ourselves a siesta in the hammock or just do some simple work. And then it's already 6 p.m., the sun goes down and we relax with thoughts about the next day in our heads. Day after day, week after week. It certainly doesn't get boring here.

Only on Sundays do we (usually) take a break and take some time for hiking in the mountains, swimming in the river or sea, working on the computer, or reading a book in the hammock.

Oh yes, that sounds good. I think I have written enough. Time to seek the horizontal 🙂

The clay oven

After the frame is in place, we form the base of the oven

The base is dry, the sand piled up.

The pile of sand is separated from the clay with newspaper.

Stomping clay together is much more fun!

We cut hay

The dogs also enjoy the work

Layer by layer we form the oven

Now let it dry for a week.

The sand comes out well.

A 2nd chamber is added on top for heat conservation

Seraina puts the finishing touches on the clay oven.

The first fire

The oven makes the ambience not only cozy...

... but also produces the best pizzas in Palomino!

Then it is accomplished

We are done. We are now proud homeowners in the Colombian Caribbean.

It remains to write the description for the Airbnb listing, take some good photos, and brief Karina and Alejo. Because from now on they will take over the management of

BANANATREE in the Mango Village.

We are incredibly happy about what we have achieved here in such a short time.

And at the same time, we are excited to be traveling once again after the successful completion of our work. In California, our van is waiting for us. And who can say what adventures!

Shower by day...

and by night

Making of Bananatree

It took a while, but finally, after 5 years, the movie is ready. Have fun with the Making of Bananatree 🙂

Epic Journey 2016-18

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Epic Journey 2016-18

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Hausbau in Kolumbien Teil 1

Seraina — Fri, 10 Feb 2017 15:07:00 +0000

Bananatree Palomino – Epic Journey 2016-2018 Part III

It's great, life on a construction site. Life is a construction site. But now it's about ours in Palomino.

The tent stands near the far right corner of our land. Just behind it rises the three-meter-high water tower with two tons of water on top. Until today, the small-looking concrete column with concrete-iron plate holds the weight.

Next to the tower in the immediate corner is a garden hose suspended from a wire, the shower. Black plastic and a palm weave serve as a privacy screen from the neighbors. The hose can be easily removed and thus also serves as a hand shower, and more importantly, it is used daily on the construction site to wet the cement mix, water all our seedlings, and fill the shower bag. The 30 francs spent 5 years ago on the shower bag has proven to be worth more than any other purchase. At the moment it serves us as a "water tap" in the kitchen.

If you walk three meters from the shower towards the front of the land, you will come across our super-luxury kitchen - a bamboo construction wrapped in black plastic to protect the refrigerator and stove with an integrated oven inside.

The kitchen is complete and could hardly be better. The only thing missing is a storage and cutting table. But we didn't carpenter the worktable in vain. It is big. So big that there is room for the tools as well as the cutting board.

Of course, there is also a small dining table. The top is a 70 by 100 cm tree cross-section (a gift that came with the wood for the second floor), the table leg is a piece of our felled coconut palm, and the supports are found driftwood from the Palomino River, all nicely sanded and painted.

The toilet house seems complete as well as the kitchen. However, only as perceived from the outside. If you go under the dense palm leaf roof, you can see that some things are still missing. The toilet is cemented and usable. The shower, however, is not yet in place. All water pipes have been laid and tested.

By the way, this is a very interesting thing to do for the first time. You cut and glue all the tubes together, turn on the faucet, and are delighted when finally water comes out at all ends.

The partition wall between the toilet and the shower is only halfway up and still needs to be finished. This, too, is very interesting. It is not so easy to set the individual blocks correctly according to the spirit level, as well as laterally horizontally and vertically to the other blocks. Our simple world already has so many dimensions. And on top of that, you have to hurry so that the cement doesn't dry up in front of your nose.

The posts of the cabaña are in place. The 5-meter high tree trunks are incredibly heavy. But thanks to David's ingenuity we get them to stand:

The lower end of the trunk stands on the prepared stone-cement base. A rope is attached to the upper end, which is thrown over a strong branch of the mango and held by a person. Now by pulling the rope and lifting the trunk by about three people, it is brought into the vertical position. Once this is done, three bamboo supports are quickly attached and the trunk is fastened to the base to prevent it from sliding away. It is now more or less stable. The supports are not removed until the beams of the second floor hold the posts together.

This is what it looks like on our construction site. Every day there is more work to do and if you look through the photos, you realize how fast the construction site is changing.

Seraina designs the bathroom.

Reinforcing iron for the base of the house posts

Tool repair à la Palomino

When Seraina makes ice-cold lemonade

Cocky + unfocused + machete = finger cut in half

A frequent guest: Rüdiger

Colorful Palomino

Now we are working on the upper floor.

Pineapple and hummingbird

Rüdiger the iguana

After 3 months in Palomino we are ready for vacation.

For 3 weeks we leave our new house behind.

Update: 28. February 2017

Now as I write these lines, we have finished the shower. It is an improvement on the garden hose, no more muddy feet, and the water well distributed at a comfortable height by the shower. But no question, the garden hose had more style.

The cabaña also looks quite different. The framework is in place, all beams of the second floor and the roof construction are complete. Now only the plank floor of the second floor and the covering of the roof are lacking. When we return from Guatemala, we will work on the kitchen and the furniture. But first, we are going on vacation.

Finally, a few impressions from Palomino:

The 6800 meter high Sierra Nevada in the early morning

Beach in Palomino

Rio Palomino where the river flows into the sea

We hike up the Rio San Salvador

Karina's many dogs

Epic Journey 2016-18

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Epic Journey 2016-18

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Städtereisen: Vom Amazonas nach Hause

Simon — Sat, 21 Feb 2015 18:33:00 +0000

South America Tour 2013-15 – Part IX

Iquitos - 2 February 2015

In the rainy season, it appears sparsely, but as soon as the sun shows itself, it immediately becomes unbearably hot. You don't even have to move to sweat streaming streams.

Today, however, it is overcast and pleasant. We take a moto-taxi out to the Manati Rescue Center. The ride takes about half an hour. Our driver steers us carefully out of the city traffic, while mild air ruffles our hair. Arriving at the rescue center for freshwater manatees, we sign up for the next tour.

Max, the young Peruvian guide, explains to us exactly why the animals, which weigh up to half a ton, need to be protected. It is always the same in the Amazon: like other animals of the jungle, manatees are hunted to be eaten or sold as pets. Without consideration of the immense losses.

The center is now succeeding in curbing the hunt by informing and educating the people about the abuses. Many manatees have already been successfully cured and released into the wild.

On the tour, we are allowed to pet and even feed the young animals. It is a gripping feeling to touch their rubbery skin and to look into their curious eyes. And how gratifying to know that there are also people here who want to bring about a change in the way we treat animals.

On the way back to town, we sit in a colorful regional bus with no windows and loud music. A dark storm front is rapidly approaching us and soon thick drops are pattering down on the bus. We quickly imitate the locals and push up the windows hidden in the bus wall. A waterfall pours down over Iquitos.

Hopefully, we won't get there just yet, or we'll have to swim back to the hostel! Streams flow along the roadsides.
I look out the window, fascinated by this city in the middle of the rainforest, this so very different world, and wonder when we will see it again.

Lima - 4 February 2015

So far it is a successful day. We found the artisan market and bought the last gifts for the home. We have also exchanged the leftover soles for euros. Now we just have to catch a cab to the airport tomorrow morning.

Not so easy, we have to realize. The official cabs in the old town are cheap, but they have no permission to drive to the airport. We ask one after the other, but none wants to take us.

Crap! Now we have to order an official one, which is twice as expensive. This is getting seriously tight with the few soles we still have.
Oh well, we'll pass on the last dinner. But no cui.

I sleep badly, hoping incessantly that our cab will be at the door in time.
At six o'clock we are standing with bags and baggage in front of the hotel on the still-empty street. The first car that approaches us is a cab.

"Aeropuerto? Sure, get in."
He tells us his ridiculous price. We hesitate only briefly - this is not our cab, can we trust it? - and get in. Shortly after, we arrive at the airport; much too early.
And what were we worried about yesterday and all night? Sometimes you should just ask less and trust more. How easy it is for me to forget.

Bogotá - 5 February 2015

We have about six hours. After landing, we rush onto the bus to the city, where we want to pay Mauricio one last visit before we leave South America.

He is very happy to see us again, although he is very busy with his work and has to attend several Skype conferences. Now and then he clicks off and we can chat a bit.

Then Nat calls already. Hard to believe: our Australian neighbor from Palomino just arrived in Bogotá from the coast this morning, which gives us the chance to go for a drink with him.

It is only a short stop-over on our way from Lima to Barcelona. Nevertheless, we take advantage of it until the last minute.

Just now Nat brought us up to date with news from Palomino and Mauricio told us about his and Vivi's intentions to go to Paris for a year soon and already we are on the plane again. Ten and a half hours to Barcelona.

Barcelona - 11 February 2015

We stand among people from all over the world in front of the entrance of the strangest cathedral I have ever seen.
Like almost everyone here, we wear headphones and concentrate on the voice on tape that guides us from one place to the next.

With our mouths agape, we enter the Sagrada Familia, Barcelona's iconic monument. The sun sends its rays through the colorful church windows. The play of colors inside is enchanting. On one side it burns in red tones like fire, on the other you can almost hear the blue water rushing.

The sea of colors surrounds enormous columns that rise far into the air, chiseled to resemble giant trees. You feel as if you are in an abstract forest. All shapes and structures were taken from nature.

Soft church singing sounds from loudspeakers. I stand spellbound in the mighty nave of the cathedral and try to absorb all the impressions: Colors, sound, shapes, and structures unite into a single whole; a feeling that makes my body vibrate. My hair stands on end. What a masterpiece!

With this, a person has immortalized himself in a very extraordinary way. A work that reaches far from the past into our modern times.
It is hard to believe that Gaudi started to build his cathedral more than 125 years ago and it is still not finished.

Wouldn't it be interesting to visit Barcelona at that time? So much history. I've got it: I wish for a time travel on my next birthday!

Paris - 16 February 2015

At the Gare de Lyon, we secure the tickets for our last trip - back to Switzerland - and then stroll off.

The cold Paris air blows in my face; I am shivering. Finally, we stand in front of the entrance to what is probably one of the most touristy cemeteries on earth: Père Lachaise. Since the 1970s, people from all over the world have been visiting Jim Morrison's grave.

To my astonishment, we are almost alone in front of it when we finally find it in the inextricable maze of paths and graves. We take a moment to look at the simple grave, adorned by a photograph and a few wilted flowers. A barrier stands in front of it to keep visitors at a distance. Too many already allowed themselves to take a piece of the tombstone home as a souvenir.

But the Père Lachaise is worth a visit even without the Doors frontman. Without a goal, without haste, we walk on, sometimes turning left into a narrow path, then climbing up an old stone staircase on the right. Sometimes along with enormous mausoleums of old, wealthy families, sometimes past graves overgrown with moss, half-collapsed.

We read many Jewish names, next to the Star of David, French, but also German, English, and some Chinese.
The cemetery is a city from another time, another world.
Back in present-day Paris, a fresh breeze is blowing. In contrast to sunny Barcelona, winter is quite noticeable here.

Following long avenues, through narrow streets, past dozens of cafes and stores, we make our way across the city. We pass la Place de la République, where flowers and memorials still adorn the statue in the square, commemorating the victims of the Charlie attack. "Nous sommes Charlie," reads the Parisian solidarity.

A few hours later, we arrive at le Palais de Tokyo. It has already become dark. On the opposite side of the Seine, the Eiffel Tower shines in the sky.
Here we meet up with Seraina's uncle Hugo, with whom we have taken lodgings for a week. He is an artist and invites us to a vernissage. The title of the exhibition is striking: "At the Edge of the Worlds."

At the Palais de Tokyo, French, as well as international artists, find a platform to present their works to a wide audience. Art usually demands too much from me. Maybe I just don't understand it.

But then now and then there are moments when people simply fascinate me. One is to have an idea. To see it, to form it. It's quite another thing to realize it in such an ingenious, personal way.
Doesn't it mean that each of us is an artist? Or can be, if he/she engages in his/her creativity?

Even more than the artworks at this vernissage, I wonder about the guests and artists present. In between, it is true, people stand out who look like stereotypical painters (beret, goatee, long coat, artist's charisma) or like a countess who can afford anything.

But most are young people, or young at heart, who look quite ordinary. Maybe many of them are students and people interested in art. Certainly, among them, there are artists with different degrees of fame. Nevertheless, some of them do not stand out from others.

So many times I have wondered and complained about mankind, how they treat themselves and their planet; in such a way that it can only lead to one end.
However, if I think it right, resourceful heads, creative thinking, inspired spirits to give me bigger riddles.

Riddles, however, which I do not feel forced to solve. Much more I want to admire the picture, the sculpture, the text, or simply the creator of the work and be inspired. In the hope that a small spark of creative power jumps over to me.

The End

(There are still some pictures missing in this post. If I find them again, I will add them soon)

South America Tour 2013-15

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In der Hängematte auf dem Amazonas

Simon — Mon, 01 Sep 2014 21:33:00 +0000

South America Tour 2013-15 – Part VI

In a hammock boat from Iquitos to Leticia

At two o'clock in the afternoon, we are at the port and get an ideal place on the ship from Iquitos to Leticia to hang up our hammocks. We spend the rest of the day watching people. Passengers settling in for the trip, vendors selling everything from hammocks to tangerines, the ship's crew working.

At dusk, we are still in port. Everything seems to be on board, people, all kinds of building materials, water, and other beverages which are being delivered to some village communities on the Amazon. We don't know what else is being waited for.

At eleven o'clock at night we are finally on our way, two nights, one and a half days long. I sleep quite well in my hammock. The time passes quickly. We spend it reading, listening to music, talking as we leisurely glide down the Amazon.

Now and then we stop in a village, sometimes you could almost call it a town, in the middle of nowhere, we load up and unload, and get back on the river.

Sometimes it rains in torrents, often the sun shines. We watch gray and pink river dolphins playing, eat rice with meat - two small dishes are included in the trip price - wait, look, are.
At noon on the second day, we arrive in Santa Rosa, Peru. I look at the other side of the wide river. Over there is Tabatinga, Brazil. Next to it is our destination: Leticia, Colombia.

El Yacuruna - a narration (click here to read)

Humans see, hear, feel. They collect many experiences in their lives. Stories emerge, most of them are scary but beautiful and hopeful ones also exist. They are passed on from generation to generation. What was once told to the grandmother by her ancestors, is now again passed on to the youngest. They serve as a root, advice, and help for the future life of each individual. But stories have a hard time in today's modern age, where everything has to be logical and proven. What was once deeply believed and lived is now judged and thus usually condemned.

In Peru, especially in the dense forests of the Amazon, you can still find many legends and mystical figures. Many communities lie hours away from the modern world. They are deeply rooted in their culture, the knowledge for survival, and the legends that show them the way. From there, people once came, joined together, and formed the first villages, soon the cities. Padre Cocha is just 95 years old and counts about 3000 people. We lived in this village for a month and worked with local people. So it happened that we volunteers soon came to the topic of mythologies. We wanted to learn more about the spirits of the Amazon and realized that there was some knowledge to be gained from our work colleagues. However, the first information came hesitantly. We learned about the Chullachaqui, the wretch with one human and one animal leg who lures people deep into the forest and never lets them return. "My wife's grandfather saw him, but luckily escaped," Gilbert tells us. We laugh sheepishly, not knowing whether to believe it or not. But the young jokester looks us seriously in the eyes and we are drawn into the inexplicable, mystical, and yet present. "Every story has some truth," I think, and a shiver creeps down my spine.

So it happens that we keep asking, curious like little children, wanting to know everything. Secundo, Gudrun's employee, and confidant, wants to tell us more. He wants us to come to his house in the evening and he will tell us some experiences. We are there on time and full of eager anticipation. "Are you going to tell us this story?", Secundo becomes serious: "It is not a story, it is the tragic truth, it was a friend of my father who had witnessed this."

In Nauta, a small town near Iquitos, the annual festival is coming up. When Joel comes home to his wife, he instructs her to go ahead and prepare the meal. In the meantime, he wants to go to the river to wash. When he gets there, he sees a man sitting on the dock. "I've been expecting you," he says. Before Joel knows it, he is grabbed by the man and pulled into the depths of the water.
When Joel does not return home after some time, his family begins to worry. They set out to find him. But on the banks of the river, they find only Joel's soap and his clothes. Joel himself remains as if he had disappeared from the face of the earth. They call the Brujo (healer), who takes a close look at the rooms in the family's house. He soon knows what has happened to Joel. Joel can only have met the Yacuruna, the man who lives in the water and has been pulled into the water by him. So he decides to call several strong men to grab Joel the second he appears to pull him out of the water. He is supposed to have developed supernatural powers in the meantime which will make this undertaking more difficult. Three brujos and the helpers gather at the river. They wait patiently for Joel to appear. After some time it happens - Joel comes to the surface of the water. Only he is changed. Leeches are where his nose once was, his eyes are big and round, and his knees are bent inward. Only by the brujos' blowing can Joel be immobilized so the men can pull him out of the water. Joel doesn't know what had happened to him, not even who he is anymore. Through trance, the three brujos find out that he was forced to eat raw fish underwater.
"Either you eat the big fish or it will eat you." He had no choice and ate. With each bite, he transformed himself bit by bit into a Yacuruna. All of this only happened because the Yacuruna wanted to marry his daughter to Joel.
Now, as Joel lies there on dry land, his family takes him to his house. He no longer recognizes it. Only after some time does he feel comfortable in it again. From now on he lives only in the house, the transformation could not be reversed. He no longer goes outdoors or eats a bite.

"Three months after that he died," Secundo ends his narration.

With Secundo (far right), after telling us his story

The three-country corner in the middle of the jungle is popular for travelers who, like us, come from Iquitos. Some continue right away, for four to five days, to Manaus. Or, since there is no real road connection to the interior of Colombia, fly to Bogota.

We reach Leticia by boat from Santa Rosa and, after finding affordable accommodation - Colombia is again a good deal more expensive than Peru - have to drive to the nearby airport; the only way to get an entry stamp here.

Leticia is small and easy to explore on foot. To make sure we were in Brazil for a while, we walk over to Tabatinga. The flag is not the same and they speak Portuguese over here - otherwise, we don't notice any big differences between the two places.

Ill

Back in Leticia Seraina feels feverish, I catch a cold, probably because of the fan and the eternal heat at the same time.
Since we are in the Amazon, where there is a high risk of infection with dengue and malaria, we go to the hospital to be on the safe side.

Seraina undergoes a blood test. After endless waiting we know: Dengue positive. Hell. Tomorrow we want to fly on to Santa Marta. The doctor prescribes Seraina acetaminophen against the high fever and rehydrating salt solutions, which she has to drink daily with liters of water. There is no actual medication against the virus. The main thing is to make sure you drink a lot so you don't get dehydrated.

The next evening we land exhausted on the Caribbean coast and drive to the hostel, where we both freeze and sweat at the same time. In Santa Marta, the nights are unbearably hot.
A day later, Seraina is still seething. Six liters of water are quickly gone in one day.

I call Mauricio in Bogota. He is a specialist in dengue and advises us both to drink a lot and to rest for the next few days. And certainly not to take any medication against flu or headaches. No aspirin, no Neocitran, or anything like that, as this prevents the body from healing.

Every other day Seraina feels better, only to suffer bedridden with a very high fever every day in between. After a week in Santa Marta, where we are treated most caringly by Levi and Ella in the hostel, we have had enough of the heat and the city and drive to Palomino to check on our land.

On the same night, Seraina feels extremely bad. She is feverish, shivering, burning all over her body. I guess a fever of 40 degrees must be the minimum. Somehow the night passes. We drive to the next hospital, which is in Dibulla, a few villages away. After another test and a long wait, she gets her diagnosis: Seraina is not suffering from dengue, which should have disappeared within three to five days, but from malaria!

Free of charge, after eleven days she has finally gotten the right medication, which immediately improves her condition. She has to take them for another ten days so that the parasite in her blood is eradicated one hundred percent.
I don't know what caught me a few days ago, maybe the flu or some other worm, but in any case, I was spared malaria, as a later test proved.

Nat and Palomino

It's World Cup time in Brazil and all over the world. I even get Seraina to watch soccer with me. However, I miss the euphoria very much in Colombia. I can only feel it when their team is playing. Otherwise, it is difficult to find a place where they show other games. On the one hand, because the Colombian national television only broadcasts forty of the sixty-five games, on the other the electricity in Palomino often fails unexpectedly.

But there is also work to be done in Palomino. We think about what is worth doing on our land right now. We plant a few fruit trees with the hope that they will have grown a little by the time we return in a year and a half. We need a barbed wire fence to mark the property boundaries. In the end, we decide to postpone everything else until next time.

We help our Australian neighbor Nat to build a kind of bamboo fence around his land. He is about to start his house building project, for which he has set up a spacious DIY workshop. It's impressive how many tools he's purchased.

He plans to have his cabaña up and running in four to five months. We introduce him to Rowan, another Australian, whom we recently met at our campsite. The two of them seem to make a great team.
Nat's good friend Karina, who lives across the street, must have been impressed by our fence work. She hires us right away to rebuild her fence.

The problem here is that although you can find a lot of local workers - they impose themselves - they are just unreliable and only interested in quick money. The result is expensive bad work and unnecessary loss of time. Above all, you lose your nerves. We have experienced this many times in Padre Cocha and we notice it in Palomino as well.

Nat has the solution to this problem: hire volunteers, mainly travelers like us, who want to do a good job.
Nat is a kind of guinea pig for us. We'll see what's in store for us in a year and a half. Through his experience, we will hopefully be able to avoid some of the mistakes he had to make. In addition, he already knows very well what woods to use for what, where to get them for what prices and can provide us with a lot of helpful information about building in Palomino.

We are very lucky to have found such a good circle of friends who give us a feeling of "being at home". Karina cooks us royally - sometimes we just get tired of the constant local rice with meat - while we, with the help of Argentine friends we met in Santa Marta at the hostel, dig holes, put in posts, lay sore barbed wire, and wire the "caña boa" sticks into a dense fence to establish some privacy from the nosy neighbors. Because they often come over uninvited, sit with you to.... well, to chat or just watch what you're up to. Common in villages like Palomino, this can get a bit exhausting for us "westerners".

June and July pass quickly. Besides Palomino, we also go back to Santa Marta to visit our new good friends in the hostel. We also pay a visit to Miguel in nearby Taganga from time to time.

>>> It was great fun to make the following (slightly shortened) video. For the 30th birthday of our good friend Probst at home in Switzerland, we cobbled together the many congratulations from our friends in Taganga and Palomino to a birthday greeting of a different kind 😀 <<<

Visit from home

Like one of the refreshing gusts in parched Taganga - it hasn't rained in eight months! - time flies, it's the first of August, and Seraina's sister Tabea enjoys a cold beer on the beach with us. For a few weeks, we can give her some impressions of our life on the Colombian coast. And how does she thank us?

With kilos of freshly imported cheese and chocolate from Switzerland! Mmmh, merci very much, Bäse! This brings a big smile not only to our faces but also to those of our Colombian, Argentinian, Australian, Romanian, and Polish friends.

With Tabea at Miguel's in Taganga - good times!

Tubing in Palomino

On Baru enjoying

Onward journey: Via San Gil to Bogotá

Finally, we said goodbye to Tabea and our dear friends in Palomino and Taganga.

On the way to Bogotá, where Mauricio and Vivi were waiting for us, we made a stop in San Gil.

We were happy to see Andrea and Justin again at "La Pacha". They immediately had a few tasks for us. There Seraina could prove her artistic vein once again.

La Pacha in San Gil

Celebrating Seraina's 26th Birthday

Painting the hostel kitchen at La Pacha

Seraina, Simon, Andrea, Justin

With Mauricio in Bogotá

Colorful botanical garden

South America Tour 2013-15

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South America Tour 2013-15

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Ecuador – Land der Vielfalt

Simon — Sun, 20 Apr 2014 15:25:00 +0000

Südamerika-Tour 2013-2015 – Teil III

Eje Cafetero - Colombia

I have said it many times, and I say it again: making plans is nice, but throwing plans out the window is much nicer!

So we don't go from Bogotá via Putumayo to Ecuador, as we first thought, but take a bus west to Armenia. By plane, the 150 km as the crow flies can be done in less than half an hour. The road, however, first descends to Ibague in the valley, from where it winds back up the other side in hairpins, up and up through lush green hills to the Eje Cafetera, Colombia's coffee zone. Along the way, we see daring bridge and tunnel structures under construction that should shorten the route in the near future. Today, however, it takes us a solid nine hours to complete the journey.

Armenia is a copy of one of the many medium-sized cities (means: around 400'000 inhabitants) that exist on this continent. So it is quite uninteresting for us.

We continue traveling to a place near the village of Filandia, half an hour from Armenia. Fernando, from the Hotel "El Mirador" in Minca, has given us the number of his uncle Álvaro, who has built a cottage in the countryside with his wife Olguita.

Well, a cottage is probably a little understated. The couple, who are about sixty years young, have realized a dream with this spacious villa with a wonderful view of the entire valley.

We are invited to be a part of it and rent their guest room for three days.

From here we get to know the area. Álvaro, who taught at the university in Bergen, Norway, for 23 years, is committed to Filandia's tree and landscape protection. Because too many trees have already had to give way here due to widespread cattle farming.

The area reminds me a little of Australia's south. This may be due to the eucalyptus trees, but also to the wide, green hilly landscape. What's missing are the kangaroos grazing at dusk.

A few days later and a few villages further we are in Salento. The touristic place makes us think of Switzerland. Mountains, green meadows, cows, and rain. Nevertheless, the vegetation is a bit different. Huge ferns and palms and then also the snow-covered top of the active volcano "Ruiz" show that we are still in Colombia.

In Gabriel's hostel "Yambolombia" we both feel quickly at home and a week passes like a breeze.

Gabriel, a native from Salento, bought this beautiful land cheaply a few years ago to build an organic finca (farm) with hostel on it. This also includes goats, horses, and of course dogs.

Nearly all visitors who come to Salento take a hike through the nearby "Valle de Cocora", where the Colombian wax palm dominates the landscape. Once again Colombia captivates us with its diversity and natural beauty. Of course, the Colombians are a proud people. Quite a few have already expressed to us their open and honest joy about being born here. First of all, Mauricio! If we understood more about music and the countless styles that Colombia has produced, we could rejoice even more with them about their country.

In the "Yambolombia" we exchange with other travelers about itineraries and experiences and organize twice a pizza and bread party. Because no clay oven crosses our path and gets away unused! Especially not Gabriel's beautiful one.

It remains to be mentioned that it has probably never rained so much on any of my trips as in this region. Finally, we leave Salento, not without promising to come back despite the mud and wetness.

At first we decide whether we want to make a stopover before Ecuador, but then we decide to take the (more or less) direct route.

On a beautiful morning at half past ten we set off from the "Yambolombia":

To the village on a partly ankle-deep mud road: 1/2 hour on foot

Salento - Armenia: 1 hour in the buseta

Armenia - Cali: 3 hours in minibus

Cali - Ipiales: 13 hours on the night bus

Ipiales - border: 10 minutes in minivan

Uncomplicated border clearance at 6 a.m.

Yippie, Ecuador!

Border - Tulcan: 1/2 hour in a minivan (on the way the elderly driver gets a fine from an ungracious policeman because of a trifle)

Tulcan - Quito: 5 hours in the bus (interruption of the trip in the big city? No, go on!)

Quito (north terminal) - Quito (main terminal in the south of the city): 1 hour by bus

Quito - Baños: 4 hours by bus

Arrival Baños around 5 pm, short walk to the hotel, shower, bed.

Ecuador

Mishap on arrival

Early morning. Seraina and I have just crossed the border and are waiting in a small minivan for two more passengers to fill the remaining seats. I get into conversation with the Colombian, the Peruvian, and the Venezuelan, who have already been traveling in various buses for four days coming from Caracas.

The usual: We are from Switzerland, speak Swiss German, yes, a kind of German dialect, Spanish we have learned on the road...

I notice certain curse words that are used lightly, the child on the bus hears them giggling.

Finally, two nuns join us and we can leave.

We ride. The area is gloomy, which is not only due to the weather. After a while, we arrive in the town of Tulcan, the first place after the border. It is just as gloomy as the land before it.

We pass the city park, where I spot a single tent. Who is camping here, I wonder; then the scene has passed.

We cross the streets. In front of us, a caravan of policemen on motorcycles. Nothing special. A patrol. They are moving slower than we are; we overtake them.

The nuns are sitting in front and now want to get out. The driver stops. One nun opens the door while the other pulls out her purse.

Before I can react, it happens. No time to tell the nun to close the door, because not like her, I remember the motorcycle cops we have just passed. Here comes one already. On the right. Can just barely brake, almost drives onto the curb, so that he does not slam directly into our passenger door.

He curses. The startled nun immediately closes the door again. The apologizing driver drives a few steps further to the corner where it is officially allowed to let passengers off. The nun also apologizes, they pay and make off.

The driver suspects correctly. Although he quickly puts the car back into gear, it is too late. There is a knock on his window. The annoyed policeman first discusses the matter with him because our driver almost caused an accident. He who has just had to laboriously gather passengers to earn perhaps a scant ten dollars on the ride. He is inconsolable and begs: "Please, please, forgive my mistake this one time. Please, please."

It all helps nothing. We have to wait until the form is filled out and our unfortunate chauffeur has collected his fine.

I ask myself: Don't policemen have to overtake on the left like everyone else so that precisely such things don't happen? A uniform gives power. No discussion.

And what about the nun? Pretty bold, too, to make off like that after her blunder.

The driver has had bad luck. We arrive at the bus terminal where we look for our onward journey and the incident is soon forgotten.

In Baños

The very next morning after our exhausting journey to Baños, we fortify ourselves with a stately breakfast at the market and now want to check out what we are here for. Because Baños is not just called Baños. The village is located directly on the slope of the Tungurahua, an active volcano more than 5000 meters high, which will make headlines once again two weeks after our departure from Baños. Later, in Canoa, we read that it spewed ash and debris with a cloud that reached as far as Quito.

But today we don't see any of that anyway because a thick, white, rainy cloud covers the town. That doesn't matter at the moment, we lie in one of the four or so thermal baths that make Baños famous and let our bodies get the relaxation they deserve after such a long voyage.

The next day the weather is not much better. Every now and then the sun peeks through to warm a little. That is just enough to explore the surrounding area. However, to undertake a longer hike, it is too cold and wet, although the area would be just made for it.

Instead, we check out another hot spring and lie in the warm water while it drizzles on our heads.

Eventually, it gets too much for us and, although we thought to wait longer for the sun, we leave early. Also in consideration of the many tourists who descend on the village at the weekend. Touching that Rosita, the owner of the hotel of the same name, apologizes for the unusually bad weather. We appease her and promise her to come back one day.

Tena and Misahualli

The rainy season is in full swing. It remains wet all the way down to Tena, four hours away in the east of the country. Tena is the starting point for white water rafting and tours to the indigenous peoples in the nearby jungle.

We, who are not very enthusiastic about tours anyway, are not particularly turned on by the prospect of "Indian-gazing" of indigenous people who, after completing their performance, disrobe and possibly throw themselves back in front of the TV. I'm not saying that everyone is like that, but certainly, there are many who would rather skip strenuous traditional hunting methods and go shopping at the store.

So at first, we don't know what we want to do here, except to get to know the city with walks, to talk to other backpackers, and to use the kitchen in the hostel extensively.

We drive on to Misahualli (pronounced Misahuaee, where "ll" contains a barely audible South American "sh"), not far away. The small village is located at the very end of the road. After that, there is nothing more than jungle. The Rio Napo flows brown and wide beside it. Far into the green, through the whole Oriente of Ecuador, into Peru, until it finally meets the mighty Amazon somewhere after Iquitos.

Here we find the atmosphere that can only be found in the jungle. In the evening you close your eyes and let the sounds take your breath away: One cricket tries to drown out the next, frogs croak, somewhere in the undergrowth it flutters, sometimes the call of a night bird can be heard, the river flows quietly incessantly.

At some point every night, as it did in Tena, it starts to pour. It's as if the moisture accumulates throughout the day, waiting and waiting to withstand the pressure a little longer until it just can't take it anymore and surrenders to its nature. The bubble then doesn't just deflate over the jungle, it explodes like a giant balloon filled with water over its mass. The rain slams down on the roofs, trees, and streets so that you think you can watch the water level rise. The next morning, the sun usually breaks through the white blanket again.

Another attraction Misahualli has to offer is the monkey family that lives in the middle of the village square. It is a joy to watch the monkeys playing and shimmying through the trees. But watch out! They know exactly where bags and trouser pockets are. They are not aggressive, as I have seen elsewhere. A little one grabs me by the trouser leg. I put my hands in my pockets and tell him that I don't have anything for him. Like a begging child, he wants to know, "Ow? Ow?" "Sorry," I say calmly, "nothing to eat." He lets go of me and hops away.

Quito

When we arrive in Quito a few days later, we are lucky. Still, at the bus station, we see the ominous, black front coming towards us. Maybe we will make it dry to the hotel. The hope bursts like the first heavy drops pattering on the roof of our cab. Lightning splits the dark sky. I count along: One, two, three, four, five, six... Dimly it begins to rumble, louder and louder. The next flash. Wow! What a spectacle. One, two, three... The bang is frightening. Not only is it raining, now cherry-sized hailstones are falling from the sky. We can hardly hear each other in the car, the hammering on the roof is so loud.

Now the crack of thunder hits at the same time as each flash of lightning. We are in the middle of it and glad to sit in the dry car.

Our chauffeur circles us through water-flooded alleys to avoid the traffic as much as possible. Half an hour later the storm subsides. We arrive at the hotel while it is still raining lightly, glad to have escaped once again.

Quito has two main districts of interest to tourists. The old town is full of colonial cathedrals and plazas where you can often be entertained by live music and markets on weekends.

The Mariscal, on the other hand, is full of hostels, bars, and clubs. That part might as well be in Europe or Asia. Or Ecuador, for that matter.

We discover both districts for ourselves, walk through the old streets of Ciudad Vieja, and treat ourselves to an Indian dinner at the Mariscal.

The real reason we are here is Mario, an old college friend of mine whom we meet here. He and his wife from Quito live in Switzerland but are currently visiting family in Ecuador.

So we seize the opportunity and spend a day together visiting one of the many parks in Quito, eating good food, and having a few beers in a bar.

On the beach of Canoa

As so often Seraina and I do not stick it out for long in a big city. After we had to endure weeks of rainy weather - well, the last two days in Quito the sun enchanted the city - it's time for swimming shorts, sand, and heat.

The night bus leaves at eleven at night. There is hardly any chance of sleep, the winding route shakes us back and forth. And as soon as we nod off, we hear: "Canoa! Canoa!"

What? Already there? It's still pitch black outside! Barely half-past four. Phew, what now?

We bundle up our backpacks and drag ourselves to the beach, where we can hear the waves but not see them.

At half-past six the village slowly begins to stir. A little later we pitch our tent at Camping Iguana. Kris from Germany has created her little empire here a few years ago. Not only do travelers live here - most of them from Argentina - but also some dogs, puppies, cats, and - a seagull. Tiki broke one of her wings, so Kris took her in.

Canoa is a small beach and fishing village that has doubled in size in the last year or two. Today, a beach promenade full of bars and restaurants dominates the scene.

Nevertheless, it is still quiet here. At least throughout the week, only a few places are open. Friday night to Sunday, however, everyone wants to do business, the bars run at full speed until deep into the night.

Here we meet some fascinating characters.

On the first day, we meet Waslav, whom we simply call Czech. He is from Czechoslovakia but has not been there for over fourteen years. A vagabond, as he stands in the book. Tall, blond, only a few teeth left in his mouth, speaks fluent Spanish, but with a funny accent. Instead of the second to last or last syllable, he usually stresses the words on the second. It sounds hilarious, I like talking to him.

And he has stories to tell. With barely more than a few dollars in his pocket, he has been traveling through South America for half an eternity.

For example, when he was traveling on the Amazon, eight days from Iquitos, Peru, to Manaus, Brazil, and from Manaus another week to Belem on the Atlantic coast of Brazil, he got to know a boatman who told him how he could get food and transportation for free. All he had to do was mention the name of the shipping company he worked for, and he would be warmly welcomed. That's how it worked out.

Here in Canoa, he just recently quit a job. They were paying him $12 a day at a construction site that, Czech assures me, exceeds the risks of any extreme sport. He can barely get by on that, he says, and his health is more important to him than the money.

He's probably had hundreds of jobs like that. I want to know if he can't imagine settling down somewhere. Oh, sure, there would be one or the other place, but the liquid is lacking. Couldn't he go back home, where he might get better-paid work? No, nothing awaits him in the Czech Republic or Slovakia. Besides, he could not afford a plane ticket. And he likes his life here.

That's how he appears. He cheerfully talks about his complicated love affairs, about plans for the future, about friends and acquaintances. In the process, it turns out that we have a common friend in Palomino.

On the same day, Czech introduces us to Damian. Damian is from Canoa, runs a small bar on the promenade, and makes the best fruit juices, caipirinhas, and ceviches (seafood salad).

Czech helps Damian out a little, not for money, Damian lacks that too. Instead, he wants to gain experience.

You rarely see Damian without a smile on his face. "Damian, working in the hammock again, huh?" a neighbor passing by on a bicycle calls out to him.

"Life is hard," Damian admits. Most of the time, there's nothing going on in his shack. He, like many here, makes a living from the weekends and holidays. He tells us how he was robbed recently. He had neglected to lock his board shack that night. And such mishaps are mercilessly exploited here. The next morning, not only was the cash register empty but so was his liquor bar. And what does Damian do? He laughs about it. He didn't have much anyway. At the moment, he has to spend the night here in the bar, since he doesn't have any money.

We quickly become good friends. He gladly lets us use a little table so that we can display our Artesania. We end up doing this almost every day, with more or less good daily results, part of which we are happy to invest in Damian's business.

On another day I meet Ismael, a young backpacker from Maryland, USA. He is traveling on his own in South America for a few months. An amusing guy who incessantly asks questions that could annoy you if you allow that to happen. Example: How do you get along with all these strange people? What a question to ask when you're traveling!

He tells about a finca in Colombia where he worked. "In the evenings, they would sing and dance around all the time. I didn't like that at all. I used to retreat to my hammock to read."

"Yes, most of the time you meet good people and if someone doesn't suit you, you'd better get out of his or her way," I give him some wise counsel. Maybe he's never heard it before.

In the afternoon, Friday, he comes to me and tells me his misfortune. He was swimming in the sea, not far in because of his glasses, then saw others diving under the waves and wanted to try the same. When the wave caught him, he realized why he shouldn't do that. His glasses flew off his head, never to be seen again, one with the ocean.

A spare pair of glasses? He doesn't have. That's why he comes to me. He asks me to help him find an optician in the next town, Bahia, an hour away, who could make him a new pair. When, now? Yes, if I don't mind, right away. Because the day after tomorrow his flight leaves for the Galápagos, and he doesn't want to go there without seeing anything.

Of course I help, balance my give/take account a bit, off to Bahia. The mission turns out to be difficult. The only optician they have here is closed. In the neighboring village, San Vicente, there is supposed to be another one. We go there, our cab driver asks around, without success, the optician no longer exists.

What now? Since Ismael has to go to Quito anyway, from where his flight to the Galápagos Islands takes off, I give him the advice to take the night bus to Quito tonight, to have the whole Saturday to get new glasses.

That's what he wants to do. On the way back we talk about all kinds of things, about his job in the marketing department of a big company, about Stephen Hawking and his universe in a nutshell, and what would happen after our death.

A funny fellow, clumsy but clever. And haunted by bad luck. The only bus that goes directly from Canoa to Quito tonight is fully booked.

But there are other possibilities to get to Quito. With several stops in between, it should still be possible. As I wait with him at the main road for his bus, he tells me about his family. About his father, who always locks all the rooms, which for Ismael is a clear sign of mistrust towards him. About his extremely religious stepmother, who, as a not very devout Orthodox Jew, reproaches him at every opportunity for being a bad person. And here it comes, my favorite Ismael phrase: "My stepmother is a wonderful woman, I can't stand her." Very neutral and understandable.

Hopefully, he got his glasses. And hopefully, he makes lots and lots of lasting acquaintances that help him study life.

We also make friends with Benji and Karo. A short story of the two Germans: They were in Taganga (the small party village next to Santa Marta, Colombia) on the way. From the village over the hill to the beach behind. In the middle of the day. About the same time, Seraina and I were there too.

Three guys block the small path for them. Pistols. "You don't move when they hold a gun to your wife's head," Benji recalls, shaking his head. We'd heard about the dangerous area but had walked to that beach ourselves unmolested.

"They could have raped her and I would have had to watch." "They didn't just take our stuff," Karo continues, "they forced us further up a path into the bushes where other tourists were already waiting, terrified. I was so scared. What did they want with us? Shoot us or what?" So they had to wait out the rest of the day with the others, not knowing how it would end. In the evening they were finally released. "After an experience like that, you get suspicious, it's a shame, but it's inevitable," Benji ends.

We have heard some bad stories. Luck? Good angels? Knock on wood that nothing like that ever happens to us.

We get to know many more people here. There is also Reto, who emigrated from Zurich Oberland, and has bought a large piece of land in the north of Ecuador with his Argentine wife and built a farm with an adjoining hotel. Long, blond hair, tattoos all over his body - my mother would call him a freak (not in a bad sense!) - he knows a lot about the indigenous peoples of Ecuador and other parts of the world. Of course, we are invited to their home once we come to the region. He enthuses about the area, about his llamas, alpacas, the thirteen dogs, the lagoon, and the volcanoes all around. Canoa remains in our best memories with its people, waves, and sunshine.

Vicabamba - Valley of the 100 year olds

After almost two weeks we start another long journey. We want to go to the very south of the country, to Vilcabamba, to the "Sacred Valley". Here, sixty percent of the inhabitants are said to live to be over a hundred years old. Is it because of the holy water that flows down to them from the mystical mountains all around? No one is able to explain it.

Seraina and I find a nice little cabaña that we rent for a week to explore what we can already say after two days is a magical environment.

What is immediately noticeable here, is not only that the hamlet seems clean and quiet, but also that almost more gringos than Ecuadorians live here. Many Americans, perhaps attracted by the long life, certainly also by the beauty of the valley, have acquired estates in Vilcabamba to spend their retirement in peace.

The mountains, plants, and summer climate here at 1600 meters invite us to many walks in nature.

We enjoy this short week in Vilcabamba after that we are going to Iquitos, Peru, to start our volunteer position at amazonanimalorphanage.org. That means several days in the bus to Tarapoto or Yurimaguas and another three days in a hammock on a boat with masses of other people - and, as we keep hearing, really bad food.

South America Tour 2013-15

Back to part II:

South America Tour 2013-15

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San Gil – Minca – Palomino

Simon — Sat, 01 Mar 2014 10:37:00 +0000

South America Tour 2013-15 – Part II

San Gil

Arriving in San Gil after the mighty Bogota is relaxing. For the time being, we put up at a hostel run by Silvain, a French-Swiss, and take a walk to get a first impression of the town. With its 45000 inhabitants, it is larger than we first thought, but it is still quiet. The town is nestled in green hills, divided by the wild Rio Fonce.

We are not very interested in all the adrenaline kicks on offer, such as river rafting, paragliding and canyoning. We would rather know where we can settle down here for a little longer. On Airbnb.com, we come across the coffee finca where Justin and Andrea live with their son Inti and daughter Sami (their names come from the indigenous language Quechua: Inti means sun, Sami energy).

Our first meeting with the Anglo-Colombian family takes place in the central park of San Gil, amidst the Halloween hustle and bustle. Little Batmans, Super Marios, Shreks, princesses cavort around us. The kids are visibly having fun. The whole thing is a huge colorful bunch that we can hardly get enough of.
Then they stand in front of us: bloody, torn faces, black eye sockets, cowboy clothes. A zombie family from the Wild West.

Halloween in the center of San Gil

Parque Natural El Gallineral

La Pacha

We quickly agree with Justin and Andrea and move in with them the following day. We quickly make the acquaintance of the young, somewhat overzealous boxer dog Lucho and the in contrast small, quiet "mini-Labrador lady" Foxi. The constantly whining for food Puss and the stubborn goat Manchita, who gives birth to her little Isi not long after our arrival, complete the family.

Then there is Alex, a young English volunteer who is helping Justin with construction work. He found Justin on the website workaway.info, which he highly recommends to us in case we would also like to work in exchange for room and board on our trip through Colombia and the world and get to know local people better in the process.

We start with that right away. After paying rent and food at the beginning, we ask Justin and Andrea for a job and start our work shortly after.

And there is enough of it. The two want to open a hostel/tent site here as soon as possible. Some things still need to be built, some things need to be repaired: yurts, dry toilets, a camping kitchen, a hammock shelter and an old bus that is to be converted into a chill-out zone.
While Seraina sets about creating the logo and design for the future "La Pacha Hostel", I take pickaxe and shovel in hand...

It's not just the work and the beautiful region that make us want to spend several weeks here. Above all, it is Justin, Andrea and Alex with whom we can share a section of our path, and everyone we have met through them.
In addition to the busy days, we always have time for excursions into the surrounding area; for example, to the colonial town of Barichara or to the river Pescaderito which is perfect for swimming.

Ayahuasca

But we would like to tell you about something else:
I have heard and read about it many times. The curiosity to try it out myself has never waned.
Ayahuasca. The magic potion of the Amazonian shamans. The medicine made from a liana that helps one gain more clarity about life. It is said to purify you. Physically, mentally, as well as spiritually.
Grand words. Is that true? What is behind it? If I ingest this, am I not the same as I was before?

Through Justin and Andrea we get to know Juan, Claudio and the others who regularly hold yaje ceremonies. "Yaje" is what they call the drink in the form of which one takes "la medicina", the medicine; another word for Ayahuasca. Translated from Quechua, "Yaje" means something like "vine of the dead" or "tendril of the souls". Depending.
They all swear to make use of this medicine as often as possible, to purify themselves, to unite with the spirit inherent in it, and to connect with God.

(I assume you know that when I speak of God, I'm not talking about the big bearded guy, that's Santa Claus. I'm talking about the one who makes your houseplant grow, who warms your skin on a nice winter walk, who you smell in the trees and flowers. I'm talking about the one that gives you the feeling you can't describe when you experience something wonderful. The one you feel when you find yourself smiling without knowing why. In other words, of that God who is in you and in everything that surrounds you. A God we can hardly imagine in our westernized world, but who is omnipresent in many corners of the earth).

Pablo, who is part of Juan's circle of friends, describes the effect of ayahuasca this way: "It's like you have an extremely fast internet connection for a short time. Your thoughts are completely clear. You know who you are, where you come from, where your path will lead."

I am curious about that. We agree to participate in a ceremony. In order to prepare for it, we have to fast for one day, which means eating only fruits and drink lots of water, but especially not using alcohol, tobacco, coffee, and animal products. This for the purpose of simplifying the purification, to intensify the effect. But also to prepare our stomachs for the coming efforts.

At nine o'clock in the evening we arrive at the small finca. Juan, his long black hair tied in a ponytail, will conduct the ceremony. He welcomes us with a hug and introduces Claudio, who will assist him. They are both about my age and wear clothes of the native Indians. Also present is Magdalena. She is a shaman, a healer, as we learn later, and will also accompany the eight or so participants through the night and help them.

Seraina describes how she experienced the night (click here):

"We sat by the fire and waited. My nervousness was building up. Somehow I knew that the experience would be positive, that there was definitely much to learn. Still, I was dominated by a fear of "near death," of falling into the unknown, of being dominated by something I didn't know. Don't fight it, I said. Just breathe calmly and let it happen.
First, Juan wanted to know about our consumption habits. Whether we drink, smoke, like spicy food, and so on. Since we answered yes to most of that, he knew that first our bodies, mainly the kidneys, needed to be cleansed. So we were each given a large jar of a bitter whitish slag to force down. And sure enough, it wasn't long before we both jumped into the bushes and emptied our stomach contents.
Soon after, Juan began the ceremony. He pointed out to us what it was about. We must let the spirit of medicine work, ask it what we want to know from it. To recognize the almighty power in nature and connect with it. Get away from the surface and superficiality, go deep within ourselves.
While Claudio incensed us with copal, Juan said prayers, invoking the spirits to help us with palm fronds and harmonica. Each of us was given a small sip from a legume cup. The stuff tasted bitter, something fermented.
After that we all lay down, some by the fire, others a little further away into the darkness.
Nothing happened for a long time. An imperceptible calm came over me. A feeling of being a mother, of having everything under control and being able to protect everyone.
I could have spent the whole night like that. Then the effect became stronger and stronger. Good, I thought, now is the time. Like giving birth, breathe evenly and always know that this state will pass. Despite visual changes, the oppressive effect subsided somewhat over time.
So it changed again and again from the inside to the outside, from the inner feeling world to the outer world. Like a pulsation, which sometimes became stronger, then weakened again.
After hours, I felt like I was waking up from a fever dream. My body bathed in sweat. I imagined how everything bad would be pressed out of it and let it continue to sweat.
As a next step, Juan blew cleansing snuff into one of my nostrils with a kind of pipe, then into the other. I became instantly dizzy and quickly settled down by the fire. With difficulty I crawled to the edge of the place to vomit up completely. It was amazing how much came out. It felt like all energy was being drained from me. Trembling, I tried to prop myself up so that I could spit again and again.
Then finally it was over. My body felt like an empty shell, yet I was comfortable now. As if reborn, freed from everything bad, connected with the earth, life and my body. My mind, my spirit, perfectly clear.
After a sip of water, I sank back onto the mat to relax my tired body. It continued to dance before my eyes, but I felt good, clear and ready for life.
At some point during the night, Magdalena sat down with me. Her hip against mine, bent over me, the shaman began to talk to me. I was confused at first. "What is she doing? Is she getting that close to everyone right away? Do I really need to focus on this conversation right now?"
That was difficult. I would have liked to tell her to share her life story with me later, I would have liked to lie down and sleep. But I kept silent. I thought to myself that I could at least try to get something out of it.
Over time, I was able to do that. She told me about her enthusiasm for life: "I love to laugh and just do what I like. If someone crosses my path who radiates badness, I leave him alone. He has his life, I have mine. Everyone has to learn for themselves. Every person is just a person. If you know that, nothing can happen to you.
I was in Bogota, in the dangerous streets. I was not afraid. Because when you know that everyone is only human, you connect with everyone, love everyone in a certain way. Your counterpart notices that and treats you differently. When you are happy in your heart, you know who you are and where you want to go.
You have a fire in your belly and know that if you like it, you stay, if you don't like it anymore, you move on. You fix your goal, raise your chest and move forward courageously without avoiding difficulties. On the easy path you learn less than on the difficult one. Because that's what you want: to learn, to progress and not to be afraid of life. All the knowledge you need is already within you.
When I was little, I didn't have any books. We didn't have money for them. I didn't get an education. But once I was able to borrow a book from a friend, and I liked it very much. My friends said I couldn't understand the book at all without education. I didn't care what they said. I understood it and I liked it.
It was then that I realized that you can understand everything if you understand yourself and life. You don't need education to understand. You don't need money to go your way. A strong will is much more important. Too much education confuses the mind.
I learn what I need at the moment and concentrate on that. If I need something else later, I learn it then. I enjoy the day and laugh. My laughter makes others laugh, which carries on and on. A seed planted by me spreads.
No one, no ruler, no rich person can command over me. I am a creature of nature, like all of us, and nobody's subject. I look ahead and courageously follow my will."

At some point I fell asleep. It was already light when Claudio woke us up with a hot panela (sugar water) and a piece of bread. I got up, not yet fully sane, but as if reborn."

(Of course, Seraina left out some things in her report. Things of a personal nature. Feelings and insights that concern only her).

For me it was a very exhausting night. I had to throw up a few times. Especially after the snuff administered by Juan, which had cleaned out my brain quite nicely, the medicine started to work a bit. But not too strong.
I had completely lost track of time, fell asleep again and again briefly. Claudio took care of me, wanted to know how I was doing, whether she was already taking effect, what was happening inside me. I tried to answer, but could hardly concentrate.
My body was vibrating. Why was I participating in the ceremony? What was the medicine supposed to show me?

When Claudio returned later, I had gained an answer.
"Paciencia" - patience. Then he began to explain to me what it meant. I listened intently. I had to be more patient, with my fellow human beings, with the world, but first and foremost with myself. Not only that, "Paciencia" is made up of two words: "Paz" and "Sciencia", that is, peace and science.

He interpreted this to mean that achieving inner peace is not easy. It is a science in itself. You have to work for it. Inner contentment is not a given, but something that one must strive for with daily, conscious practice.
Our conversation continued.
I was not overcome by enlightenment that night. Rather, a realization: that I already knew all this. The What? was clear to me. To return to the here and now with the help of breathing, to live in the moment, to put myself in other people's shoes and their situation, to be patient in life....

But How? was it to be achieved? The spirit of the medicine tapped me on the shoulders and pointed at it with its index finger. Practice makes perfect. Do things CONSCIOUSLY every day. Mental work plays an important role: meditation, Yoga, Taiji. Everything can be helpful.

The other morning, when I get up, I feel the effect of my last serving. It lies heavily on me. Thousands of bubbles buzz through my body. I don't need to experience that again, I think. I overcome myself to empty my stomach once again. Then, finally, I start to feel clear and strong. What a beautiful day has just begun!

Ayahuasca #2

Not long after, about three weeks later, we hear that Justin and Andrea receive a visit from a friend. With him they have already experienced countless yaje ceremonies.
Seraina and I are still working at the finca, but it tickles us. It's time to move on, the sea and the Sierra Nevada are calling us. Still, we do not want to miss this opportunity.

The little gentleman whom Justin accompanies across the finca to show him our work introduces himself to us as Hugo. The man radiates something extraordinary. The air around him seems to vibrate. As he begins to talk about medicine, about the wisdom in it, about God and the nature in which he is omnipresent, I realize that Hugo embodies everything I imagined about a shaman from the Amazon jungle.
After we have expressed our wish, he spontaneously agrees to guide us through the night tomorrow.

It is already after eight and already more than two hours dark on our finca, when he arrives and decorates the table, which we have converted into an altar, with his seven things. Alex, Seraina and I are already waiting by the fire, Justin and Andrea will join us later (so will Lucho and Foxi, their two dogs, who want to spend the night outside with us).

Hugo talks to the spirits, sings, makes noises. The mood adapts to him. Then he incenses the whole place with copal.
We begin by him cleansing each of us with the frond, saying prayers for us and spitting a sweet liquid from all directions over our faces, hands and bodies. He will do the same again at the end of the session.
When we are all prepared, we follow him one by one to the altar. There, a massive pinch of tobacco is blown through our noses. This almost puts me down to my knees and I feel sick.

A little later, when we are complete, we get to drink the bitter liana mixture and lie down by the warming fire, where we have already set up before with mats and blankets. The dogs cuddle up to us. Every now and then I get up briefly, add wood, look around. Seraina, Alex, Andrea, Justin. They are all lying there. Waiting. Or do they already feel something?

I also lie down again and wait. Once I fall asleep briefly. Then I notice Hugo's presence next to me. "Como estas? Bien?" he asks. I feel something. A physical tremor. It rushes and "chrüselet" everywhere. Yes, I am well, but the medicine does not work fully.

As the night progresses, Hugo picks up his guitar and begins to sing. The sounds waft over me. At some point Hugo sits down with me again. I should concentrate on the music. Is something happening? It is beautiful, relaxes me. I float in other spheres, try to let my body take off. It hums and vibrates.

But not much more happens. I negate questions about visions. Perhaps I still keep my emotions behind barricades instead of giving them free rein; something Juan already pointed out to me at the last ceremony.

"It's a process," Hugo explains to me, "where you can make progress if you trust medicine and reveal your intentions to it."

The medicine. I can feel it working. Slowly, it weighs heavily on my stomach. But I can't throw up. Seraina tells me later that it happened to her the same way. I tell Hugo, who lets me take off my sweater and T-shirt and then cleans me up as at the beginning with palm leaf fronds, chants and the liquid that he sprays over my naked body.

I feel the bile coming up slowly. To top it off, I get a white juice to drink. I take just a sip - and jump. The brew comes up instantly. Whew, that felt good!
Unlike me, Seraina has sunk to low levels. I envy her. She reacts much more sensitively to such things, has, I think, much more of them.
While I am already asleep, she is still far, far away, on her own personal journey.

Although I gained few insights that night, I really enjoyed the ceremony thanks to Hugo's special aura. The next morning, despite the little sleep, I feel clean and well all around. I wish every person in this world that at least once in a lifetime he and she can experience this carefree feeling of lightness that dominates me at the moment, in their own body, more importantly, in their soul. I hope we will accept Hugo's invitation to visit him on the Amazon.

The Caribbean Coast of Colombia

Minca

Before we know it, our month at Casa Feliz in Minca is up. During this time we got to know the village and its surroundings better. On hikes through the sierra, where we were usually accompanied by one or two dogs from the village, there were always new things to marvel at. From the Pozos Azules (basins formed by water) to various waterfalls, we often passed shelters in the middle of the forests of the surrounding mountains.

As remote as they may be, not only a few tourists get lost there. We too would like to spend a few nights out there in the mountains. But we are very happy with our little house in Minca and often just linger at home, reading, writing, painting, playing, cooking, eating and enjoying.

When after Christmas more and more tourists flock to the coast and also to Minca, it becomes almost busy in the village. Minca has dressed up. The hotels and restaurants are full. We also take advantage of this and display our jewelry by the river.
As in Mexico, it is mainly local tourists who like to make gifts for friends and family and shop with us (here you can read our Mexico story).

Our tourist permit for Colombia expires at the end of December, just as our month at Casa Feliz ends. We think back and forth about whether we should travel briefly to Venezuela, just a few hours away, and then return to Colombia with a fresh three months in our passports.

In the end, we decide to buy a new permit at the migration office in Santa Marta. Having paid the equivalent of forty francs each, we are allowed to travel undisturbed through Colombia until the beginning of April.
We extend a week in Minca because we will not get bored here so quickly. But since January is the highest high season, the prices for accommodations double almost everywhere.
We look around and finally find a hotel on the internet in notorious Taganga that offers cabañas for such a low price that it must have a catch somewhere.

Taganga

Nevertheless, we book it for five days and are lucky twice.
First, we meet the 61-year-old owner of the hotel Miguel Angel, with whom we quickly become friends. Because in his kitchen there is an oven. He falls in love with the fresh bread that Seraina conjures up from it at the first bite. In addition, there is fresh fish from the local fishermen almost every day, which we prepare on the grill together with Miguel Angel. Even Seraina becomes a pesquetarian.

On the other hand, the hotel price actually has a catch. Either the fault lies with Miguel Angel or with the company Hostelworld, on whose website you can search and book hostels all over the world. Somehow, the point for the rental amount was set incorrectly on their homepage, which led to the fact that not only we are allowed to stay in Miguel Angel's cabaña at a ten times lower price.

Remorse over Miguel's losses quickly evaporates. We become friends with him and mutually enrich our time together.
Already Mauricio in Bogotá told us that you either love or hate Taganga. And which side are we on now?

In this small fishing village, where for some years now foreign investors have been raking in the big bucks with hotels and discotheques, pushing the locals further and further away, you can party every night. If that's what you're looking for, you've come to the right place.
If you prefer it a bit quieter, like us, you probably won't last long in Taganga. But since we met Miguel Angel and his pretty bamboo bungalows, we like it here quite well. The dry heat and the strong wind also characterize Taganga.

Here, too, we try our luck on the street and fit in between the countless artesanos. In two days we sell two pieces of jewelry. This may be worthwhile for others, but not for us.
We'd rather spend our time with Miguel in his quiet sanctuary than with all the people on the streets of Taganga.

For the first time in Palomino

Our next destination on our journey eastward along the Caribbean coast is called Palomino. An Artesano told us about "La Casa de Simon". We ask for it and find it quickly. It is not a hostel in the true sense of the word, yet it seems to attract most of the people who pass through this small village.
This is probably because they are mainly young artesanos, musicians and other artists who can stay here with Simon in a tent or a hammock at an accommodating price and exchange ideas.

Palomino is magical. Like Minca, it is located near the Sierra Nevada. Splashed by water from the snow mountains over 5000 meters high, it shines green and fertile out of the arid surroundings.

In the mountains live the Kogis. In Palomino, one often encounters members of the indigenous people dressed in white robes, the men also with the head covered with a large white hat. They are small people who live in seclusion in villages high up in the mountains. Nevertheless, they seem to be open to people who are interested in their culture and wisdom. We hear from different people that they exchange with them, work and live together with them to learn from each other.
Not only jungle and mountains attract people, also the ocean and a dreamlike palm beach enchant more and more tourists and travelers. It is still rather quiet in Palomino, but already now a tourist development can be felt. It remains to be seen where it will lead.

One day we meet Nat from Australia. He tells us that he recently got hold of a small piece of land and now lives in Palomino. Not bad, we think, and listen to him excitedly when he mentions that there are other favorable offers in Palomino. But more about that later.

Cabo de la Vela

After all, our journey does not end in Palomino. We take the bus to Riohacha, the capital of La Guajira, from where you can get by car and 4×4 jeep through the desert to Cabo de la Vela. Here on the peninsula, in the very northeast of Colombia near the Venezuelan border, live mainly indigenous people, the Wayuus. Cabo is a small dry nest, the sea hardly moves, but a dry-hot wind blows constantly.
At first we don't quite know what we are looking for here. Through the day it is simply too hot to venture out into the blazing sun. Only early in the morning and in the evening it is advisable to go for a walk. So that's what we do.

Before sunrise we start hiking to explore the surrounding desert, salt lake and coast. Cacti and so many different kinds of rocks that not only a geologist's eyes overflow, provide us with an extremely interesting day. Soon, however, the sun burns so strongly again that not even the wind can refresh.
There would still be a lot to do out here. The beaches further away and the Macuira National Park, which is an oasis for a significant biodiversity of animals and plants in the middle of the desert, are difficult to reach and accordingly expensive.

Buying land in Palomino

After three days, we travel back to Riohacha and later on to Palomino where we have business attend to.
As soon as we are back, we contact Nat, who, as promised, first shows us his achievement, the piece of land on which he soon wants to build his own house, and then accompanies us through his neighborhood.

At our request, he shows us one of the pieces of land for sale and introduces us to the neighbor. Should we really do that? We could afford it. Only, we have to decide soon. Palomino is growing and so are the prices.
Over the next few days we'll find out about several other options, including acres of jungle that are so cheap to buy that we could buy several at once.

After a few days, however, we actually decide on that small land in the village that Nat showed us first. There is nothing on it but a few mango and orange trees, coconut palms, sugar cane, and banana trees.
The deal goes smoothly. Without further ado, we are fresh landowners in Colombia!
Well, and now?

Back in Minca

Now, we are going to travel for the time being. To a friend, we give the task to look after our land during our absence and to keep it clean. Before we can think about building our own little cottage, we first have to save enough money. But in one or two years we want to turn this idea into reality.
First, we travel back to Minca via Taganga, where we have stored some of our luggage at a friend's house.

What we have saved up for now is a hike up to the summit Kennedy, from where you can see the snow mountains of the Sierra Nevada early in the morning. At five a.m. we set off. By hitchhiking we can spare ourselves a large part of the way. Nevertheless it is a long march up through the forest. The vegetation changes the higher we climb. More and more moss and fern palms, finally also firs decorate the way.

The initially dark blue sky clouds over as the morning progresses. Only around noon, already over 3000 meters high, we arrive at the top. What we already knew for sure at the bottom, now comes true. Instead of white mountain peaks, it is dense clouds that await us. Only now and then we catch a glimpse of mountains in the distance. However, no snow-covered ones.

Nevertheless, the hike is a pleasure, even when our feet are already aching on the descent. Suddenly there is a rustling in the treetops and we discover a horde of howler monkeys. Among the many birds that always accompany us whistling and trilling, we can observe a few toucans, but they are reluctant to be photographed.
Just in time for sunset we are back at the Hotel Mirador with Fernando and Margerita. In their green garden we camp the last days in Minca, while the hummingbirds buzz around our heads.

We travel south

On the way back to Bogotá, we stop on the other side of the Sierra Nevada, in Valledupar. But we can hardly stand it for more than two days in the almost forty degrees Celsius in the shade. Only at the river it is pleasant. We soak up the heat and the sun's rays, because seventeen hours in a refrigerator on wheels await us.

When we finally arrive in the capital at seven in the morning, it is not warmer there either. Well, after more than three months of warm sunshine, the cool air doesn't do so bad.

Despite the unsurpassable hospitality of Mauricio and Vivi, we do not want to stay too long in this huge city. Just long enough to spend a little time with them and to concretize our further plans. Because soon we will cross borders again. Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile are already waiting for us on the other side.

South America Tour 2013-15

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South America Tour 2013-15

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