Slowenien

Unterwegs im Balkan

Simon — Sat, 11 Dec 2021 15:21:41 +0000

Italy

Oil and tire pressure checked, refueled and a seal bought for the leaking sink at the camping store, we were finally ready for the long-awaited departure to the south at noon on December 6.

Where to exactly we still did not know. First off through the Gotthard, to the other side of the Alps.

It didn't take long before we reached our first stage destination in the evening, a quiet parking lot above Lago di Como, just after the Italian border. The app park4night is worth its weight in gold to find such places to park for the night. A place for a few hours, where we do not disturb anyone, but also no one bothers us.

We were prepared for the fact that it would be cold. Piles of blankets and thick clothes made it easier for us to stay more or less warm. With shivering limbs we started the engine early the next morning. Further along the lake, further into the mountains and valleys of northern Italy.

In the little ski village of Aprica, at almost 2000m, we took a break in the snow. Our "Green Pass" gave us access to a pizzeria, our first real destination in Italy.

Strengthened, we drove on through Trentino, up and down through snowy valleys. In Trentino, again with the help of the aforementioned app, we found an optimal parking spot for the night below Thun Castle. A wonderfully sunny day said goodbye all too soon to make way for a starry, icy night.

Snow was reported. Snow we got. We canceled all plans to burden our Loki with further passes and took the downhill route. For a long time we were surrounded by white, until the snow turned to gray wetness at lower levels. The area between Treviso and the Slovenian border is hardly worth mentioning. Finally, after several hours of driving, we crossed the border at Nova Gorica in the afternoon and thus also our hiking route, which we had taken last August on the Alpe Adria Trail .

Slovenia

The landscape changed abruptly. Smaller roads, many hills and hamlets. A much less inhabited area, just to our taste. Somewhere in the forest we hid for the night.

White World

There is still much to do in our Loki ("steam train" but also Loki, the Viking God)

Good idea to take the mobile toilet with us 😀

First rain, lots and lots of rain, pelting the night roof. Then silent snow.

The next morning we awoke to white ground, white trees and white sky. Engine on, fingers on the heater, and off we went.

The white splendor followed us - ok, well, you may also say: accompanied us the whole day through rural Slovenia.

Croatia

At the small Croatian border, our passports and certificates were scanned and we were waved through. Not far from the Plitvice Lakes we found a small, snowy picnic spot for the night. Here we unpacked our wood and warmed ourselves at the romantic campfire.

Insider tip: Plitvice National Park. And that in winter! Where in the high season queues of people crowd along the paths and banks to marvel at the magical falls and lakes, we were almost completely alone. The white trees and low-lying clouds bathed the landscape in a mystical fantasy world. We walked as if through a dream. How much beauty this planet is capable of again and again. Unbelievable!

With delighted hearts and to afternoon sunshine we drove on, away from the mountains, away from the snow. South of Zadar we reached the long-awaited sea. We spent the night at a very special viewpoint over the wide island world of Croatia.

There the storm caught up with us. Lots of wind, rain showers again and again. But the sun also winked out from behind the spectacular cloud formations now and then.

So after just under a week of driving in our Loki, we reached Split. More precisely, a campsite 10km south of the city. Here we allowed ourselves a few nights rest and waited for a sunny day to visit the historic old town of Split.

Who knows us, knows that we can not stand it for long in the vicinity of a city. Now, after 3 days of sitting still, it is again high time to pack the camper and head further south.

Other countries are waiting. Bosnia, Montenegro, Albania, Greece. And where else are we headed? We can be curious...

Here's a little glimpse in moving pictures 🙂

We left Split and the campsite in Stobreč behind us and drove south along the partly gorgeous, partly terribly overbuilt Croatian coast. In Baška Voda, we drove through the new tunnel towards the inland with the destination Mostar in Bosnia.

High up we steered our Loki. Without complaining, at her own pace - there she doesn't negotiate - she took curve after curve upwards until the first snow was visible at the roadside.

Bosnia

At the border, we got our stamps and were allowed to enter the next country.

On Bosnian roads, the pace is often slow. This is not only due to the road conditions, but also to the leisurely driving style of the Bosnians. I would not have imagined it.

In Široki Brijeg, I knew of a park4night parking lot half an hour before Mostar. It was at the end of a road by a rushing river that shimmered turquoise and chased through narrow gorges like the Soča in Slovenia.

It was just 3 o'clock in the afternoon, yet the sun was already setting behind the mountains. We took a walk through the hills and gorges that the water had carved into them. What a natural beauty! That immediately made me want to just hike on and on.

The parking lot filled completely in the evening and we were parked by visitors of the restaurant, which was located here on the river. But no one bothered us.

The next day we visited Mostar, probably the most touristy city in Bosnia. But now in winter, we had it almost exclusively to ourselves. The many restaurants and souvenir stores lining the riverbank spoke volumes. Most were open, but empty. I don't recall ever hearing about Mostar and the famous Stari most, the "old bridge" that connects the more Muslim-influenced eastern part with the more Catholic-influenced western part of the city.

That's why I was so surprised by the magnificence of the bridge and the old town of Mostar that opened in front of us. Really a feast for the eyes. Especially when so few people are on the road. How the city looks in the high season, we can only guess. But I'm pretty sure I wouldn't like the tourist nest so much then.

We drove on and soon reached Blagaj with its dervish house built into a rock face at the source of the Buna River. Although this place has also been decorated with restaurants and souvenir stores, it is today, as it was centuries ago, a popular pilgrimage site for followers of the teachings of Sufism and Tasawwuf faith. The simple wooden building reminded me of the traditional tea houses in Nepal.

It became early night again and we looked for a place to sleep at the lake. What we did not realize on the app, however, was the fact that the place was at over 1000 meters and thus below freezing at night. Nevertheless, although it was already dark, we made it well over the snow track and warm through the icy night.

Montenegro

We awoke to a glamorous winter morning in the mountains - snow, sun and a flawless blue sky were to accompany us all day today. True, strong gusts that had shaken the camper and the trucks passing by now and then had not let us sleep well. But for what was being presented to us today, we were more than ready.

We drove through mountainous Bosnia towards the border with Montenegro. There they stamped our passports, scanned the certificates and took the data of our camper. Welcome to Montenegro!

At first, we continued the up- and downhill journey as before in Bosnia. But then a truly glorious panorama opened up to us: from the mountains down we looked into a Norwegian-like fjord in front of the town of Kotor - behind it the Adriatic Sea.

Quickly we were down at sea level. In Kotor, we checked out the spruced up, touristy old town. The stores reminded us of an airport. Duty-free perfume stores and stylishly dressed rich people.

We had already heard that Montenegro had sold itself to rich foreigners. Unfortunately, this was also evident along the coast down towards Albania. The nature and landscapes beautiful, the swanky, sometimes half-finished hotels on the beach disgusting.

We spent the night near the Albanian border directly at the sea. When it was already dark, Sonja stood ready with the flashlight, as if she had only been waiting for us and directed us to her family camping, Camp Utjeha. For 15 euros a night with water and electricity, you can hardly complain.

Weiter geht die Fahrt nach

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Alpe Adria Trail

Simon — Fri, 15 Oct 2021 09:29:44 +0000

Alpe Adria Trail - From the Alps to the Sea

Valuable Tips for the Alpe Adria Trail

Created in 2012, the Alpe Adria Trail officially begins at the foot of the Grossglockner in the Austrian Alps and runs for about 750 km and 37 stages through Austria, Slovenia, and Italy to Muggia on the Adriatic Sea.
We started our long-distance hike in Jesenice, Slovenia. Our first two days of hiking belong to the Juliana Trail (Stages 2 and 1). Only in Kranjska Gora we took up the Alpe Adria Trail.
Officially, the stage destinations are in villages and towns, where accommodation can easily be found. We deliberately stayed somewhere in the middle of the stage to be able to pitch our tent undisturbed. Who wants to know more about our exact places we stayed overnight erfahren möchte, is welcome to ask us directly.
The gorgeous Soča Valley in the Triglav Nationalpark is worth the trip to Slovenia.
The open-air museum on the Slovenian-Italian border above Tolmin (stage 27) gives an impressive insight into the events of World War 1. The 360° view from here is phenomenal. A highlight!
The app „Alpe Adria Trail„ helps with orientation on the hike and gives a lot of background information. You can't always rely on the map though.
On https://www.alpe-adria-trail.com/en/the-trail/ all details about the trail can be found. You can also book hiking packages and accommodation, as well as the transport of your luggage.
In August, south of the Triglav National Park it was often over 30°C. Therefore water a very important issue. More about this under the next point: The 4 Ws of long-distance hiking

The 4 Ws of long-distance hiking

water
If you're not sure when you'll find the next water source, fill up your bottles every chance you get. Top tip: There are always water taps at cemeteries!
Way
Always know your destination. Even if trails like the Juliana Trail are very well marked, there are always gaps. Apps like maps.me help you not to lose your way!
Weather
Pay attention to the weather and prepare accordingly! Will it be hot? Do you always have enough water? Is it raining? Poncho handy? In the mountains, the weather can change dangerously without warning!
Weltwach
For us, Erik Lorenz‘ podcast „Weltwach“ is exciting entertainment, e.g. during steep climbs, during which we like to distract ourselves with some magical travel stories. Of course, there are many interesting podcasts for this purpose (another one we discovered on our hike: „Geschichten aus der Geschichte“ (stories from history, obviously in German))

Good preparation is everything

We packed pretty well for our first time long-distance hiking. We always carried about between 11 and 14 kg per person, a weight that we didn't notice anymore after a few days.

You can find our packing list in this post

What were we particularly happy about?

Shower bag (having running water in between for showering, brushing teeth, washing up is a nice luxury)
Good, tested sleeping bags and mats are a must
Waterproof lightweight tent
good camera (despite the extra weight, it's simply more fun than a cell phone)
2 pairs of shoes (hiking shoes and either sandals or comfortable sneakers for non-hiking time).
Hammocks (luxury of course, but were often used for sleeping or just relaxing)
some wifi (to get necessary info about weather, campsites, etc.)
maps.me highly recommended for offline navigation
Rain ponchos (we often needed my big one as a rain tarp)
Few clothes (1 set of hiking clothes + 1 set of evening/substitute clothes).

What would we no longer pack?

Small grill (used only once and only to use it once)
Water filter (at least in Slovenia not necessary, there you can find drinking water everywhere)

Overview of the Slovenian and Italian part of the Alpe Adria Trail

(These are stages 24 - 37, which we describe in this post).

The stages 1 - 23

From the Austrian Alps to Kranjska Gora, the beginning of the trail we did not hike. For the sake of a complete picture, we show it here anyway:

Day 1 - Stage 2 of the Juliana Trail, 2.4 km - Arrival

Stage 2 of the Juliana Trail? Is this report not about the Alpe Adria Trail? Yes, it is. But when we arrive by train from Flims in Switzerland via Sargans, Schwarach St. Veit, and Villach in Jesenice, the first Slovenian stop, we don't know yet that we would walk the Alpe Adria Trail.

Of course, we have read up a little about Slovenia in Flims, and we have heard of the Juliana and the Alpe Adria Trail. Nevertheless, so far we only know that we want to go to the Triglav National Park and the Soča.

So we get off the train in Jesenice at 6 p.m., half an hour late, saddle up our backpacks for the first time, and start marching through the small town illuminated by the golden-red sun.

Soon we are on a steep forest trail. We follow the Juliana Trail signs until we find a hidden green pasture; ideal for camping.

By the way, if you want to read the post about the Juliana Trail noch nicht gelesen hast, , you can do so here.

Highlight of the Day

The feeling of having arrived in Slovenia and the first night in the tent.

Day 2 - Stage 2/1 of the Juliana Trail, 19 km - First long-distance hiking day

It rained a bit last night although we had hoped to have escaped the wet Swiss summer.

Today we wake up to low-lying clouds, drink coffee, and set out on our first long day of hiking.

Up and down the trail leads us through the hills of the Julian Alps along the Slovenian-Austrian border through sleepy villages, small forests, and farms.

Soon we realize that we can follow the yellow dots which seem to be the equivalent of our yellow hiking sign diamond in Switzerland.

It starts to drizzle again. Earlier than hoped, our ponchos prove to be the ideal rain protection.

We go down into the valley to the Sava River and the village of Mojstrana. There we shop a first time in a Mercator and dry ourselves in the warming sun afterward.

We continue walking along the river and have no idea how close we are to the Triglav National Park.

We realize this only when we have already pitched the tent and discover next to us a national park sign hidden in the bush, on which, among other things, we are advised not to camp out wild in the park. Good that we are just a few meters outside!

It's a rainy night. On the precipitation radar, we see more and more new fronts coming at us from the west.

We are wondering what to do. It doesn't look like it will get better in the next few days. Find a room and wait for the sun for a few days? Or just get on the bus and drive further south or east?

As it turns out, we will do both, at least a little bit.

Highlight of the Day

The sun when it finally breaks through the clouds at noon and brings warm weather.

Day 3 - Stage 1 of the Juliana Trail, 14 km - Always raining, what now?

Because of the persistent rain, we slept badly. How wonderful it is that the sun already appears again in the morning. We realize now, on the morning of the third day, what an important role the weather plays in our hike.

We continue past picturesque waterfalls, over mountain rivers, through mossy forests. The closer we get to the tourist town of Kranjska Gora, the more hikers and especially cyclists we meet. Almost 100% of them are day-trippers.

When we finally reach Kranjska, we are greeted by a pretty village built at the foot of the scenic Triglav range.

The weather doesn't look that bad here. We still decide to take the bus over the high pass and down into the Soča valley.

Now we would already be on the Alpe Adria Trail, which intersects with the Juliana in Kranjska Gora.

But since we are sitting in the bus and enjoying the spectacular view of the gray pointed peaks out of the window, this section doesn't quite count of course.

Towards evening we reach Kamp Jenic, where we have rented a rustic cabin above a fireplace. For 3 days we want to nestle here and wait for nice weather days.

Besides, this place right on the Soča River has something nostalgic for me. I visited Slovenia for the first time 14 years ago with my sister.

Since then, a lot has happened. I can't say for sure, but I think many new campsites have sprung up in the valley. It is teeming with campers and hikers; Triglav National Park has become a famous destination in Europe. Rightfully so, of course.

Highlight of the Day

Our cabin in Kamp Jenic directly on the Soča river

Day 4 - Stage 24 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 14 km - From Kamp Jenic to Bovec

Now we are glad to have a roof over our heads. It rained the whole night. Not only that kept us from sleeping but also a sudden rustle at the food bag. A bold mouse invited itself to us. Only reluctantly she let us ask her back outside. My stomping didn't impress it much; I think I heard it laughing derisively.
Later we learn that the mice feel very comfortable here on the farm camping. Our neighbor had to even kick one out of his caravan.

In the morning, however, the sun peeks out again and we set off - this time without heavy luggage - along the Soča down towards Bovec, the outdoor Mecca of the region. The humid weather creates a mystical mountain landscape in front of our feet. Gentle clouds of mist lie over the turquoise-blue Soča, which winds through narrow gorges, here called Korinta.

The clouds get lower and lower and unload full force for an entire hour. Within a short time, we are soaked to almost our underwear, despite the ponchos. There's nothing we can do about it except keep walking downstream along the wooded shore. It is not only wet but also fresh. Then the sun warms our hearts and minds when it finally appears again.

A bit damp, but still in a good mood and fascinated by the wild beauty of the Soča Valley, we arrive in Bovec, a small but lively town with many tourist offers.

We strengthen ourselves in a bar with a Slovenian Pale Ale (from a microbrewery originating from the area called Reservoir Dogs) and watch the hustle and bustle of the people.

Later, after shopping, the shuttle bus takes us back to camp in 20 minutes. There we light a fire, take a hot shower and chat with other campers from Switzerland and Germany around the campfire.

Highlight of the Day

The Soča, which after every bend leaves us open-mouthed.

Day 5 - Stage 24 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 8 km - From Kamp Jenic to Trenta

After it rained a lot again in the morning, the sun starts to warm us up at noon. Maybe even our clothes will still dry?! After a delicious breakfast in the family restaurant of the Kamp Jenic, we walk along the Soča upstream towards Trenta today.

Only at breakfast, during which we get into conversation with a young Swiss who has cycled here from Switzerland, do we finally decide to tackle the Alpe Adria Trail. There is something about hiking from here out of the mountains to the sea by our own efforts. What landscapes will await us there? How will the border crossings to Italy be - especially now in this strange Covid time?

Yesterday we made the lower part of stage 24 of the Alpe Adria Trail on the way to Bovec. Today we want to complete this stage by hiking to Trenta at its beginning.

The Soča River on this route is not quite as spectacular as yesterday, but the sunshine gives us a wonderful contrast to yesterday's hike. Along the river, through mossy, rocky forests it climbs gently. Again and again, we catch a glimpse of Triglav (translated "three-headed"), the highest peak in Slovenia at 2864m.a.s.l. and namesake of Slovenia's only national park.

In the evening, around the fire, other people join us once again. How the light and warmth of the fire attract people! Although it is a cheerful night, we don't go to sleep too late. We are looking forward to tomorrow when the real hike on the Alpe Adria Trail will start.

Highlight of the Day

The sunny day in Kamp Jenic on the Soča!

Day 6 - Stage 25 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 19 km - Let's begin!

At 8:49 am there is no bus today (it only runs on Saturday at this time). We stand waiting at the roadside next to the entrance to Kamp Jenic and only now notice this. The first bus to Bovec comes two hours later. So we go back to the camp and have a big breakfast. Homemade sheep cheese, salami, eggs, artisan jam, honey, and bread. Add to this: sunshine. That's the way we like to start a day.

Shortly after 11, we are finally in Bovec. After a short grocery shopping, we are equipped and ready for the road.

In the beginning, we fight our way over muddy forest paths soaked by all the rain. Slippery and really tiring. The Slap (translated waterfall) Virje is the first highlight of this stage. Since there is an access road almost to the water, we are far from being the only ones here.

This is also the case with the next waterfall, the Slap Boka. It can only be seen from a distance, but it is very impressive. The highest waterfall in Slovenia falls over 100 meters into the depths. Many steps lead to different viewpoints where people are crowding. We take the obligatory photos and return to the trail, where we are pretty much the only hikers. We like it better that way.

We continue along the Soča, which is unfortunately rarely visible as there is a lot of bushes until after 6 o'clock in the evening we finally find a lonely spot on a rock directly on the water. Here we want to make ourselves cozy.

Highlight of the Day

The Slap Boka and our lonely spot on a rock on the Soča.

Day 7 - Stage 25/26 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 20 km - A climb that really packs a punch

We didn't sleep much. For one thing, the loud roar of the Soča disturbed us, and for another, the tent stood somewhat precipitously, so that we had to fight our way up from the foot of the tent again and again during the night. "Will it stay dry tonight?" "Yes yes, putting up the inner tent is enough."

It didn't. In the middle of the night, I had to force myself to get up and throw the outer tent over our heads.

Still a bit tired, we set off and climb up into the mountains. Via Dreznica, where stage 25 turns into stage 26, we keep panting upwards. 6 kilometers we continue upwards along a jungle path. 6 kilometers, which have it all! Sweaty, we finally reach the pass, where we are greeted by a soldier's chapel built by the Italian regiment during World War 1. What a view from up here.

We gaze across the valley deep below us. How far we have already come!

On the other side, we descend leisurely, first through the cool forest, then further over cow pastures, until we surprisingly come across an alpine tavern. We don't have to be asked twice. A cool beer refreshes and loosens the muscles.

Further and further we hike into the valley in search of a suitable place to sleep. It is already 7 pm when we find a cave. The ground is a bit hard, but with our inflatable mats, we will cope with this night. The viewpoint around the corner I'll have to mention with one word: "Wow!"

In the distance, we can see Tolmin with the castle on the hilltop. Our tomorrow's destination is a bit behind it, the campsite Siber on the outskirts of the town.

Highlight of the Day

Well, yes, actually, the entire day of hiking. But if it is to be just one thing, it is our today's unconventional camping site.

Day 8 - stage 26 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 10 km - break in Tolmin

Today we do not hike far. It's just under 10 km to Tolmin. You quickly realize that the place is another mecca for outdoor enthusiasts. We meet paragliders, kayak groups, bikers... The area just invites you to jump into the adventure.

But Tolmin is not only known for that. It also hosts several festivals. Today, Sunday, by chance, the Reggae Openair is just ending. Too bad, we, unfortunately, missed it. Nevertheless, we get a bit of a festival vibe, as the Alpe Adria Trail runs right through the grounds. There is a general atmosphere of departure, people have already started to clear up. Still, it's nice to get a taste of open-air after a long time.

We arrive just after 12 noon at the campground, which is wonderfully located on the river. We don't plan to do much more than eat in town today. It's not far to Italy now, but we're still separated from the border by a whole kilometer of altitude over a distance of about 9 km. There we will have to bundle our forces again. But we let this fact be tomorrow's worry for the time being.

Highlight of the Day

The morning coffee at the viewpoint near our cave.

Day 9 - Stage 27 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 11 km - WW 1 at the open-air museum

This morning we take it easy. We buy a fresh gas cartridge and food in Tolmin. But not too much food, because today it will get steep.

At noon, in wonderful sunshine, we cross the Soča towards Volče. After the pretty village, the small road becomes steeper and steeper. In the next five kilometers, we have to climb almost 1000 meters. The road becomes a rough path through the forest. "Only 5 kilometers...", we encourage each other. It's super exhausting. At least, we can walk in the shade. And listen to podcasts. That distracts a bit from the screaming muscles.

From this stage on, the subject "drinking water" becomes interesting. For this, the app maps.me is again quite helpful; there are even drinking water sources marked. I have started to mark them in light blue in the app. Because nothing works without water. We'll get to feel that soon enough.

When we reach the top, all the uphill hardship is forgotten. We marvel in all directions; views up and down the Soča valley, views over the hills of Italy to the sea...

But not only that; we are standing here on former war territory. The tunnels in the mountain were created during the 1st World War when the Italian artillery skirmished with the Austro-Hungarian positions on an opposite hill for 2 years. The galleries have been restored to give future generations a glimpse of what it was like around 1917. What has emerged is an impressive open-air museum on the ridge.

The "Peace Trail" leads south on the hiking trail that is almost identical to the Alpe Adria Trail. Therefore, up to Trieste, we are repeatedly confronted with contemporary witnesses from the 1st World War.

It is already evening as we climb through the trenches and ruins, still fascinated. We need to replenish our water reserves and find a tap and even a cold beer at the Rifugio Soliere mountain restaurant on the Italian side. Ahh, wonderful!

Finally, we return back up to the first viewpoint of the ridge. We decide to spend the night here on the Slovenian-Italian border. For we want to be able to enjoy the view tomorrow as well.

Highlight of the Day

The open-air museum on the ridge that marks the Slovenian-Italian border and the views all around are a real highlight of the entire trail!

Day 10 - Stage 27/28 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 25 km - Too hot + not enough water = No fun!

Early in the morning, I open the zipper on the tent. A few meters further, the wall drops 1000 meters into the valley. The morning sun is just beginning to give the mountains a golden-orange hue. I grab the camera and go on tour for an hour.

We are not quite the only ones who have stayed up here in the open-air museum. There is a camping bus with German license plates in the parking lot. Truly, a phenomenal place to spend the night (at least in clear weather. Had we been up here a night earlier, we would have been caught in a violent mountain thunderstorm!).

Although we have breakfast in the sun with a 5-star view, nevertheless, in the cool breeze it is still pretty cold. But that should change today.

With fresh energy, we march down to Italy. I still get goosebumps when I think of the old woman who absent-mindedly approached us looking down. She doesn't notice us until we are almost crossing each other. She is so startled that she lets out a high-pitched scream that makes us flinch too.

„Uff! Bunogiorno, signora….“

Suddenly, the path rises steeply again. 300m it goes up to M. Cum, also packed with old information boards about the 1st World War. But otherwise, this path offers us nothing. Neither a view nor a bench for a break. We huff and puff our way up through the bush. It is hot and we are sweating. At the top, there is nothing, only the steep path back down the 300m.

On maps.me, I only now see how easily we could have bypassed this hill. We would have saved a little more than half an hour and a lot of energy. And not missed anything in the process. When I think that this stage 27 starts in Tolmin, then shoots up 1000 meters to the open-air museum, then drops back down into the valley to climb this wretched hill again, I'm glad we split it into two stages.

Finally, we arrive in Tribil Superiore, the end of the 27th stage. Neither a restaurant nor a store can be found here. Niente. Unfortunately, we also neglect to fill up our water bottles at the village fountain, which we will regret.

It continues over hill and dale through shady forests and green, hilly pastures. Isn't it true that you can always find a watering hole when you don't have any need for it? And then suddenly there's no well when you really need it.

Thirsty and overheated, we continue hiking through the woods. We have no other choice. But it is not really fun anymore.

The last drop of water is long gone and it is already evening when we get close to civilization for the first time today after Tribil Superiore. There, a restaurant! A Fata Morgana? No. Although we even pay for refilling the water bottle and the Coke and the Radler also cost more than we are used to from Slovenia, the cold drinks bring back our spirits in no time. "Tshshsh, aaahhhh!"

A little further on, in the park of the sanctuary of Castelmonte, we cook a simple evening meal and enjoy the quiet evening atmosphere under the pine trees. Then we fill our drinking bottles to the brim and walk on towards the next stage destination, Cividale del Friuli.

It is already dark when we hang our hammocks between the trees somewhere in the bush for the first time to spend the night. Comfortable and exhausted we fall asleep under a twinkling starry sky.

Anti-Highlight (Lowlight??) of the day

Not having any water. And the unnecessary, energy-sapping hike up the darn M. Cum!

Day 11 - Stage 28/29 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 20 km - Beautiful, hot Cividale

Well rested, we get out of the hammock early and set off for Cividale del Friuli, a few kilometers away. As we stroll through the morning Italy, we once again encounter a river. Well, only two days have passed since we crossed the Soča. But I can tell you, when you're on foot for a long time, the space-time continuum shifts.

Maybe not, but the sense of time can be lost quite a bit. In any case, it feels much longer since we saw running water. So we hop in the river and wash. How soothing!

In Cividale we sit down in one of the numerous ristoranti and order a well-deserved lunch. Not to be missed is the half liter of delicious vino bianco di casa. We like the old town. The typical Italian piazza is surrounded by restaurants and bars, the narrow streets provide shade, the delicatessen stores make your mouth water.

It is hot. Surely 33°C. We shop at the Coop. Here in Italy, everything seems to be a bit more expensive than in Slovenia, as the receipt from the supermarket tells us. When we step out of the refrigerated store, the heat almost overwhelms us. We prefer to drink a cold beer and wait until the temperatures drop a bit later in the afternoon.

After 3 o'clock we go on, back to the Slovenian border. We get a little off the Alpe Adria Trail and take the faster route along the road. Through small villages, along vineyards, we come back to the border river into the hilly, woody Slovenia.

Once too often we rely on a path shown to us on maps.me, which results in having to fight our way back up a steep slope to the road through an overgrown thorn bush.

After the last descent down to the creek, we finally arrive at 8 o'clock in the evening. Down here in the jungle it is almost dark. We pitch the tent, light a fire and use the grill for the first time. We don't want to have brought it with us in vain. Entrecote with tomato and cheese in tortilla dough. And a bottle of red wine. In addition the ripple of the small brook. Wonderful!

Highlight of the Day

Cividale. Sometimes on a hike, it's nice to have more than just bush, forest, and fields around you. A beautiful Italian town like Cividale is a welcome change.

Day 12 - Stage 30 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 14 km - Hot and hotter

Already at 10 o'clock in the morning, the sun begins to burn. We walk through beautifully winding vineyards, past countless wineries. But the Slovenian summer heat almost finishes us off.

We are oriented to cemeteries. No, we are not looking for open graves. But we are sure to find water in cemeteries. We spend midday, when the temperatures reach their zenith, in the shade of large oaks. We look out over the grape plantation into the shimmering distance. Now a little siesta is the only right thing to do.

In the afternoon, too, we make only slow progress. It is not really healthy to walk in the blazing sun now. And there is hardly any shade to be found in the vineyards.

Finally, we arrive in Dobrovo. We look at the castle only from a distance. More important for us is the Mercator. There I buy cold Coke, Radler, and beer. Outside in front of the door in the shady heat, we drink everything at once.

Online, we look for affordable accommodation. Without success. The next one we find in Italy in two days. Well, the shower will have to wait.

Fortunately, not far outside Dobrovo, we find a small trickle. Under other circumstances not worth a side note, but today very welcome. We cool and wash as best we can and spontaneously decide not to continue but to spend the night here among the vines on the meadow.

Highlight of the Day

Every bit of water we found on that hot day.

Day 13 - Stage 30-32 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 24 km - From Šmarto back to Italy

At 6 o'clock in the morning, we get up and walk for half an hour to the lookout tower near Šmarto before breakfast. Up there it is blowing fiercely, but we are rewarded with a wonderful panoramic view of Slovenian and Italian landscapes. In the distance, we can see the Triglav range. On the other, the flat Italy that borders the sea somewhere back yonder.

The old town of Šmarto is dressed up and trimmed for tourism. It is situated on a hill and will always be visible from a distance.

We walk over the ridges through the morning Slovenia, accompanied on the left and right by vineyards and wineries. There is also accommodation for rent in the form of apartments, but no restaurants and only one store far and wide.

Then we cross the border into Italy a second time. It is a bit milky today, but still very hot. Through the beautiful park in Bosco di Plessiva, where we can fill up our drinking water, we climb another hill (the Alpe Adria Trail probably doesn't want to miss any climb). At the top there is a ruin, from where we have a magnificent view in all directions; back to Slovenia to Šmarto and in the other direction the town of Cormons and behind it the Italian plain.

The water is already used up again. Good that we discover another public water tap down at the church. There we also run into the Belgian couple again, whom we have already met twice yesterday. They are also on the Alpe Adria Trail but have already started in Villach.

Down in Cormons, we fortify ourselves with gelati e birre, and later in the afternoon, we hike to the Laghetti Rossi, lakes, or rather larger ponds in a natural park. There we cook something tasty and watch the local fishermen, who are dressed like American hunters.

We discuss our future and do a little dreaming in the past. Then the Weltwach podcasts about the lovable Margot Flügel-Anhalt and the exciting life of Mike Horn also provide plenty to talk about (Weltwach episodes 205 and 206. The Mike Horn one is in English).

As we climb the hill behind the lakes to set up our camp for the night between the vineyards, we joke that we will surely see the Belgians again up there. And indeed, they have chosen the same campsite as us!

Highlight of the Day

The medieval village of Šmarto and the wine-growing area around it. By car, you could certainly spend a few days exploring the area.

Day 14 - Stage 32 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 11 km - Once again on the Soča River

At sunrise, we get up and start hiking to the Isonzo plain. In Slovenian: Soča. We refuel at a cemetery and continue until we reach the river at 10 o'clock, where we treat ourselves to a refreshing swim. The Soča is much wider here than in the Slovenian mountains. The stony beach feels a bit like being at home on the Aare, perhaps with a touch of Ticino.

Von hier ist es noch einen Katzensprung bis nach Gradisca d’Isonzo, wo wir uns beim zuvorkommenden Furio Gaudiano im B&B Eggenberg ein Zimmer nehmen. Es wurde uns über die App Alpe Adria Trail empfohlen und hält, was uns versprochen wurde. Das Zimmer ist einfach und günstig, Dusche warm und der Garten grosszügig. Und natürlich ist, wie es sich für ein Bed and Breakfast gehört, das Frühstück inbegriffen.

In the hot afternoon, we stroll through the local market in town and swim a go for a little swim in the river. In the evening, we eat out: delicious pizza with an excellent vino di casa. Cliché? Of course! And delicious too.

Highlight of the Day

Once again the Soča and the evening ambience in the center of Gradisca.

Day 15 - Stage 33 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 17 km - Overheated

We know that it will be too hot again today. Nevertheless, we enjoy the morning with a delightful breakfast served to us by dear Furio. With our rudimentary Italian, we can at least converse with him a bit. As we step out onto the road with our backpacks, Furio points to the thermometer. Be careful, he warns us, already 33°C!

At first, I think it's going pretty well. Have we gotten used to the heat? But then at noon, the slight headaches begin, the eternal thirst, the red steam boiler feeling.

I hardly have any strength left. Even the beautiful pine forests and the occasional views of the sea don't help much. We shorten today's route a bit and deviate from the Alpe Adria Trail.

In the cemetery of the small village of Jamiano, we shower with our water bottles. A little later we call it a day and span the hammocks in a forest. We are only a few kilometers from the sea and only a little more than 4 stages from the end of the Alpe Adria Trail. Slowly but surely we start to think about where we want to go afterward. Further to the hot south? Back to the wet north? Or what would await us in the east?

Highlight of the Day

The cooling shower at the cemetery and our cozy place to sleep.

Day 16 - Stage 33/34 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 11 km - Duino with seafood

Well, we were lucky again, last night! Sleeping in the hammock brushed by the thunderstorm. Thunder and lightning, a few raindrops. But no more.

We hike the last few kilometers of stage 33 to Duino, where we encounter the Adriatic Sea for the first time.

God, we were looking forward to lunch! Truly Italian, spaghetti with seafood and fish in lime sauce, served with a splash of white wine. Simply exquisite! The joy of food is simply part of traveling for us.

Unfortunately, we can't get into the castle complex right next to our restaurant "Al Pescatore", because it is only open in the morning (except on weekends). From there you would have a great view of the coast and the Castello Vecchio di Duino. We have to find another vantage point, it seems.

On the cliff at the edge of a pine forest, we walk on a popular path out of Duino. There we are treated to beautiful views of the sea and the castle after all. We enjoy the sea breeze and wait for the temperatures to drop out of the red zone later in the afternoon.

Not until half-past four, we leave the inhabited coastal area and enter the countryside. In the karstic forests, we find a convenient place for our tent. We remember last night. Even though the area would be perfect for another night in the hammock, we don't trust the blue evening sky. Rightly so.

Highlight of the Day

The bulging blue Adriatic Sea near Duino. And the lunch

(Bulging blue? An insider, sorry 😉)

Day 17 - Stage 34/35 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 20 km - Cooling off in Trieste

I can't sleep. Maybe it's the exciting ending to my audiobook, Jo Nesbo's The Leopard.

At half-past eleven they rush up, louder and louder. They are the apocalyptic horsemen.

First is the wind, which sweeps unstoppably through the trees. Then the lightning and rumbling, finally the heavy drops. A good thing we pitched the tent, I think, when the floodgates open. For a short moment, it booms and pours. Jupiter and Zeus smash around what they have.

We in the small tent. In the forest. With trees all around us. Waiting and hoping.

As quickly as it came, the thunderstorm disappears again. It did not last longer than half an hour. We were lucky! Neither were we struck by lightning or a tree nor did the tent give way to the masses of water.

The next morning is calm and a bit cooler. We continue hiking to the village of Prosecco. Then we leave the Alpe Adria Trail briefly to make a detour down to the promenade on the outskirts of Trieste.

Somewhere we miss a trail marker and have to march down the long, steep main road. We have to watch out for traffic, but the view of Trieste and the azure Adriatic is enchanting.

Down in the park right by the sea there are small bars where we sit down with our backpacks among the locals to enjoy a sprizz bianco and the sea breeze.

But then we have to climb the 400 meters of altitude back into the hills. On the spur of the moment, we decide to spend a night at the Opicina campsite. A good choice. Here we can shower and cook comfortably. The campground is simple, many permanent campers seem to spend a large part of the year here. The people at the reception and in the bar are very hospitable and the view down to the city is a feast for the eyes.

Highlight of the Day

The cozy park by the sea in front of Trieste, although it is not part of the Alpe Adria Trail.

Day 18 - Stage 35/36 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 21 km - Horse breeding in Lipica

During the night strong wind had come up. At the reception, they say that when the wind starts from the mountains, it does not stop for 7 days. In summer a welcome cooling, but in winter a big problem when minus temperatures freeze the water pipes.

We pack up and leave for Slovenia. First, we get to continue catching great views of Trieste and the sea. Then it's down through the forest to Italian villages and from there across the border.

Here the huge estate of the traditional Lipizzan horse breeding awaits us, of which the village Lipica is the namesake. The history of the Lipica stud farm dates back to the 16th century. Bright horses graze numerously in the pastures around a facility that appears somewhat socialist and decayed but at the same time attracts rich clientele. Hotel with golf course included.

We move on, up into the mountains again. At the top we find the mountain refuge Kokoš. The owner asks us if we would like a cold beer. Oh, if that's what it takes 😉

Feeling so refreshed, we once more take the wrong path. Well, back up the slope again and down the other side. We are still in Slovenia. But a stone's throw away lies Italian territory. Every day we cross the border, back and forth to the final destination of the Alpe Adria Trail: Muggia.

In the forest, thanks to maps.me, we discover a water source. A good place to pitch our tent.

Highlight of the Day

Should I say Lipica? The horses were graceful to look at. But we found the whole estate a bit peculiar. We just like it better in the mountains. And since there aren't many of them in Slovenia, our highlight of the day was probably the Kokoš mountain hut, surrounded by sun and pine trees.

Day 19 - Stage 36/37 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 19 km - On to the last stage

Again, we wake up to a sunny day. Along the border we walk through Slovenia, soon cross over into Italy and stand in front of the spectacular Rosandra Valley. Wow! What a view. We picture ourselves in the west of the USA.

The hiking route leads us across the rocky valley down to Bagnoli della Rosandra, where the last stage of the Alpe Adria Trail begins. The Rosandra Valley is well known. Suddenly we are no longer the only ones on the trail. As mentioned before: where there is water, there are people. Even if the river that formed the valley carries little water, they still swim here.

In the village, we shop for dinner and tomorrow's breakfast. Then, as usual, on to the cemetery, fill up with water and up into the mountains. Steeply we fight our way up the rough path until we arrive at Socerb Castle. The ruin impresses us little, unfortunately, the restaurant is closed. Also, the wide view of Trieste was nicer before. We make out a lot of industry from here.

On the other side, however, we spy our preliminary destination, which we should reach tomorrow. First, the trail leads us steeply down that it burns in the knees. In Osp we find a restaurant, to which belongs a small campground. Should we settle down here, nice and comfy? No, one last time we want to spend the night in the wilderness.

A part of the next ascent we still manage today. We lie down in the meadow at the edge of the forest and look at the starry sky. Suddenly we hear the flapping of a large bird's wings, which lands right in the tree above us. Carefully, I shine the flashlight up. No kidding? There really sits an owl on the branch. I turn the flashlight off again.

We are quiet as mice and listen to the night. After a while, we hear the sound of wings again. There she flies, our hostess.

Highlight of the Day

The Rosandra Valley with its beautiful swimming spots. But also the first-time experience with the owl, the queen of the night.

Day 20 - Stage 37 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 17 km - End of the trail

After the last climb comes - well, what? - another last ascent. Fortified with coffee and bread, we tackle it. Through the village of Tinjan we walk down to the sea. And then, finally, we enter the old town of Muggia, our heads held high. Not that anyone would notice.

But we actually made it. Not the entire, but at least the Slovenian and Italian part of the Alpe Adria Trail.

We have taken a liking to the refreshing spritzed white wine which you can get here for about 2 euros, and toast to celebrate.

It is noon. The trail is at an end, but our hike is far from it. After checking out Muggia, eating pizzas and Italian ice cream, we head over a hill again, back into Slovenia, and settle in for the night at a modest campground just outside Koper, Slovenia's big port city.

From here we want to take the bus, or several buses, to Piran tomorrow. We deliberately skip this part of the route, so as not to follow the port area of Koper for kilometers. We can continue hiking from the beautiful town of Piran, from where it's only a few hours to the Croatian border.

Highlight of the Day

Yup, the feeling of having reached our destination, the end of the Alpe Adria Trail in Muggia. Bravo! *clap on the shoulder*

Bonus: The days after

The bus station in Koper is closed, but not extinct. After all, we are not the only ones waiting for a bus. However, we have to realize that the online timetable is not usable. Although several buses per day from Koper to Piran are indicated, they do not run when they should.

Anyway, the ride is cheap (80 cents per person) and an hour later than expected we get off at the port of Piran. We have found a campground nearby (Camping Fiesa), which, as advertised in the comments, is not absolutely worth a visit. It's crowded and hot there, as well as on the beach. For one night, however, it will do.

We are not here because of the campsite. No, we want to have a look at Piran. The winding alleys, the old houses, the piazza... a visit to the westernmost point of Slovenia is well worth it. Sure, the place is overly touristy; it's teeming with restaurants and accommodations. But despite the many people, we find Piran pleasant (quite different from the neighboring village of Portorož, the region's Ballermann).

Like everyone here, we sit down at a table on the promenade, order a beer and watch people. After a delicious dinner, we observe the sun as it sinks golden-red into the sea. A little vacation after all the wandering we have well deserved.

How we continued

The next day we tossed on our backpacks again. The destination: a small campsite on the coast of Croatia, 12 km from the border. There we spent a few mostly sunny days by the sea, celebrated Seraina's birthday, and contemplated in which direction we wanted to continue hiking.

What turned out, you can read in the articles

Juliana Trail Slovenia

and

3 Days in Ljubljana .

I think the 20 days on the Alpe Adria Trail were a complete success. We spent most of the time outside in nature and yet civilization was never so far away that we had to plan in advance, e.g. for food. It was also exciting to see the border between Slovenia and Italy blurred. If the language and also the culture were not so different, who would have noticed that he/she was no longer in the same country?

We would have happily hiked further and further south to explore parts of Croatia. But at the end of August, it was still so hot that it would probably have been more torture than a pleasure to continue the hike south. Still, we would have loved to just keep going, without a destination, on foot, just following our noses.

But that which is not, may yet be.

The End

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3 Tage in Ljubljana

Simon — Thu, 07 Oct 2021 12:21:24 +0000

After more than 5 weeks in the Slovenian and Italian nature and more than 500 km of hiking on the Alpe Adria and the Juliana Trailwe were happy like little children to have some civilization around us once again. And after more than 5 weeks in the tent and in the hammock, such a hotel bed also had its appeal. Shower, kitchen, room - what a luxury!

About two weeks ago, we made a three-hour stopover in the dragon city of Ljubljana. There we caught our first glimpse of Ljubljana's old town. Young, lively, full of bars and restaurants. Live music penetrated to us from the Ljubljana Festival, so also through the open windows of the music academy.

Late summer, beautiful weather, all of Ljubljana was on the streets to celebrate life.

Just as we left Ljubljana behind two weeks ago when we left for the hike on the Juliana Trail so the lively city welcomed us back.

We booked a hotel room for 3 days in Ljubljana. Was that enough time to get to know the city?

Before we get to the answer, first a few practical questions.

3 days in Ljubljana - How to get there?

Train and Bus

We traveled by train and bus. Ljubljana's main train station is located just a kilometer north of the city center. It serves not only as a hub for Slovenia but also as a connection for Central and Eastern Europe, as well as the Balkan states.

Thus, there are good train connections to Zagreb in Croatia and Villach and Vienna in Austria.

Note that Slovenian trains are prone to delays. So we were half an hour late arriving in Jesenice from Villach, as well as half an hour late traveling from Ljubljana to Villach (which caused us to miss our connection in Villach. The transportation office at the Villach station seemed to be aware of the problem; we were quickly rebooked on the next connection).

Short routes you can pay directly on the train where there is no ticket office. International routes we booked either on the website of the Austrianor German railway depending on the destination or departure station.

Ljubljana's bus station is located in front of the train station. They not only serve countless national destinations but also destinations in other countries, not exclusively, but also by Flixbus.

On the websites of Arriva and Nomago you find national bus connections.

Car

Ljubljana can also be reached easily by car from anywhere. It is a small city, but this doesn't mean that it doesn't suffer from the same diseases as all other cities (for example, traffic jams during rush hours).

It should be mentioned that the beautiful old town is pleasantly car-free. .

Interesting for campers: A little outside the city there are 2 campgrounds where you can leave your car, camper and the like to get to the center by bus or bike. More about that in a moment.

3 days in Ljubljana - Where to stay?

Camping

Camping @ Nogometni Golf Ljubljana
Very basic campsite 6 km northeast of the city center. Friendly operators, cold shower, toilets could be cleaner
Ljubljana Resort Hotel & Camping
Although not very well rated because poor price-quality ratio, but the old town is only 5 km away and easy to reach due to well-developed bike paths.

As of 09/21. Details on park4night or googlemaps

Hotels/Hostels/Appartments

On Airbnb and Booking.com you can find a variety of accommodations.

For longer stays, we usually choose Airbnb, as these accommodations are usually equipped with a kitchen. This time, however, we found what we were looking for on Booking.com.

InLina Roomswe found a spacious room with two single beds (No. 3), a shared bathroom, and even a small kitchen. For 40 euros a night very decent and within our budget. About 20 minutes walk from the city center.
They also rent an apartment and beds in a mixed dormitory.

3 Days in Ljubljana - Fun things to do

In Ljubljana

As it is common in big cities, you can take the whole range of sightseeing tours in Ljubljana.

Guided tours of the city, historical tours of the country's communist era, boat trips on the Ljubljanica across the old town, bicycle tours, tourist train rides, various museums...

All of this we didn't do. But if you are interested in these things, you can find all the details at www.visitljubljana.com

We, on the other hand, were perfectly happy to stroll through the alleyways, stopping now and then in a bar (like the Tozd, to which we always enjoyed returning) to drink one of the local beers and watch the crowds of exciting people.

But not only the colorful people impressed us. The city itself also has a lot of interesting things to offer, such as many antique stores, flea markets, inviting restaurants, and tons of colorful facades, some in need of renovation, which make perfect photo subjects.

Although we didn't go into the castle and the view of the city from the tower is supposed to be even more impressive than from outside it, we wanted to see the Ljubljana Castle and the park on the hill.

Well, this wasn't an outstanding excursion, but it was nice to get out of the city and into nature.

But the castle definitely looks best when viewed from below with the old town in the foreground.

The beginning of September seemed the perfect time to visit Ljubljana. We spent almost every moment outside in pleasant sunny and warm weather.

We also enjoyed the live music from time to time. On the centrally located Congress Square, a large concert stage was set up for the Ljubljana Festival, which we walked by every now and then to see what was playing.

Dann war da noch das „Bier&Burger“ Festival am Wochenende. Mikrobrauereien vom ganzen Land und Burgerenthusiasten boten ihre Produkte feil. Logisch, dass nicht nur wir, sondern ganz Ljubljana hier einen sich lohnenden Stopp einlegte.

Around Ljubljana

After mastering the Alpe Adria Trail a few weeks earlier, we hiked to Croatia to the sea.

There we met Andrej and his two sons on a small campground.

"Call me when you're in Ljubljana and we'll arrange something together!"

Andrej, his wife, and 2 children, who live just outside Ljubljana, picked us up on Sunday to take us to the Arboretum, a large botanical garden, 20 km outside the city.

As we strolled through the colorful park, we learned many interesting facts about life as a family in Slovenia.

Also about the Arboretum Andrej knew a lot because one of his friends worked here. Every season there is a new flower show here. Tulips, roses, cacti, even a small butterfly house is part of it.

The park is huge. Many green areas, typical English gardens and - something for me - life-size, albeit somewhat aged dinosaurs and whales, which do not quite want to fit into the landscape.

We will definitely remember Andrej's lovely family who welcomed us so open-mindedly. We're happy to have met you!

3 Days in Ljubljana - Where to next?

Well, that's not difficult to answer. Have you hiked in the Triglav National Park? Have you paddled on the Bohinj lake? Have you visited the Pokljuka Gorge, which is smaller than the caves in Postojna, but not overrun with tourists?

We write about all this in our article:

JULIANA TRAIL SLOWENIEN

And if you don't know the western part of Triglav National Park yet, read our post:

ALPE ADRIA TRAIL
From the Alps to the Sea

In it, we describe our hike from the north of Slovenia through the wild Soča Valley, along the historic border with Italy down to the picturesque coastal town of Piran on the Adriatic Sea.

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Juliana Trail Slowenien

Simon — Tue, 28 Sep 2021 12:51:03 +0000

Juliana trail: From Tolmin to Bled

Valuable Tips for the Juliana Trail

We describe here only a part of the Juliana Trail, the one we hiked ourselves. The brochure recommends walking the trail in a clockwise direction. Once again we swim against the current on the trail from Tolmin to Bled (stages 11 - 5)
Officially, the stage destinations are in villages and towns, where accommodation can easily be found. We deliberately stayed somewhere in the middle of the stage to be able to pitch our tent undisturbed. Who wants to know more about our exact places we stayed overnight erfahren möchte, is welcome to ask us directly.
The gorgeous Soča Valley in the Triglav Nationalparkalthough it is part of the Alpe Adria and not of the Juliana Trail, is a must on a trip to Slovenia.
A detour to the Bohinj lake and the Savica waterfall is worthwhile in any case.
On the Kamp Bohinj Zlatorog in Ukanc you can camp in a forest directly on the banks of the lake.
A little outside of Bled, you will find the River Camping Bled, uncomplicated and beautifully located on the river (unlike the camping Bled directly on the lake. There we were sent away because we would have to have stayed min. 2 nights).
On https://www.bohinj.si/en/aktivnost/juliana-trail/ you can learn details about the Juliana Trail

The 4 Ws of long-distance hiking

water
If you're not sure when you'll find the next water source, fill up your bottles every chance you get. Top tip: There are always water taps at cemeteries!
Way
Always know your destination. Even if trails like the Juliana Trail are very well marked, there are always gaps. Apps like maps.me help you not to lose your way!
Weather
Pay attention to the weather and prepare accordingly! Will it be hot? Do you always have enough water? Is it raining? Poncho handy? In the mountains, the weather can change dangerously without warning!
Weltwach
For us, Erik Lorenz‘ podcast „Weltwach“ is exciting entertainment, e.g. during steep climbs, during which we like to distract ourselves with some magical travel stories. Of course, there are many interesting podcasts for this purpose (another one we discovered on our hike: „Geschichten aus der Geschichte“ (stories from history, obviously in German))

Good preparation is everything

We packed pretty well for our first time long-distance hiking. We always carried about between 11 and 14 kg per person, a weight that we didn't notice anymore after a few days.

You can find our packing list in this post

What were we particularly happy about?

Shower bag (having running water in between for showering, brushing teeth, washing up is a nice luxury)
Good, tested sleeping bags and mats are a must
Waterproof lightweight tent
good camera (despite the extra weight, it's simply more fun than a cell phone)
2 pairs of shoes (hiking shoes and either sandals or comfortable sneakers for non-hiking time).
Hammocks (luxury of course, but were often used for sleeping or just relaxing)
some wifi (to get necessary info about weather, campsites, etc.)
maps.me highly recommended for offline navigation
Rain ponchos (we often needed my big one as a rain tarp)
Few clothes (1 set of hiking clothes + 1 set of evening/substitute clothes).

What would we no longer pack?

Small grill (used only once and only to use it once)
Water filter (at least in Slovenia not necessary, there you can find drinking water everywhere)

Day 0

After successfully completing the Alpe Adria Trail and having had enough of Croatian beach vacations, we once again had a decision to make: We had about 10 days left on our long-distance hike; so where to next?

Further into Croatia and explore the beautiful Istrian peninsula? Or back to Slovenia and resume the Juliana Trail in Tolmin, which circles the entire Triglav National Park?

Heat and drought versus green and wet. Always looking for water versus streams and rain.

For us, this was not an easy decision. But finally, we set off and marched the 12 km back to the Slovenian-Croatian border.

Here, the same procedure awaited us again as when crossing into Croatia. We, the only pedestrians, meandered between cars and motor homes, which were usually simply waved on, and were beckoned with the index finger to the cabin at the Croatian as well as the Slovenian post ("Come closer, you there"). Passports were scanned, but vaccination certificates not requested.

Okay, so onward. We knew that here in Mlini Most at the border soon a bus should/could drive or maybe not. We couldn't be quite sure about that.

On the Internet, we had tried to find a bus connection between here at the border and Tolmin. In vain.

On On arriva.si, one of the Slovenian bus companies, we just didn't get any further than Ljubljana. And the capital was also not really on the way to our destination. Only later, we were a little wiser and knew that there was the other company, nomago.sithat went to the Triglav National Park.

Well, the bus arrived on time and in Lucija we had a direct connection to Lubljana, where we arrived 2.5 hours later. There, however, we had to wait almost 3 hours for the next bus.

We bridged the detour via the capital and the waiting time with some sightseeing in the old town, which was bubbling with bars, restaurants, and cool antique stores. Now we knew that we could look forward to the end of our hike when we would return here again for 3 days.

From Lubljana back into the mountains to Tolmin it was pretty much another 2.5 hours drive. We arrived in the dark. Since we had already passed by here on the Alpe Adria Trail, we already knew a suitable campsite to spend the night.

The trail marking on the Juliana Trail is not always optimal, sometimes even non-existent. Can you find it in the following photo?
(Drag to the left for resolving)

Day 1 - Stage 11/10 of the Juliana Trail, 12 km

At Kamp Siber in Tolmin, they are easy-going. "Pick any place, we can do check-in tomorrow," we were instructed at the reception last night.

By now, we were experienced in pitching tents. So it stood quickly even in the dark. Good thing because shortly after it began to rain and did not stop almost the whole night.

But we wanted it that way. Better to enjoy the luxury of too much water than to wither halfway.

This morning the sun is shining again. Everything can dry and after shopping in town we set off on our last week of long-distance hiking.

The short stage to Most na Soči (č is pronounced ch as in Chicago) runs along the beautiful green Soča (a small part also on the main road, which is unpleasant). At the stage destination we treat ourselves to a sweet snack to get ready for the next climb.

It is not long in coming, but it rewards with a magnificent view over the Soča valley and Tolmin.

Meanwhile, the morning sun is replaced by afternoon rain. But this only adds to the wonderful mystique of the landscape.

Through a typical Central European mixed forest, the path leads us back down to the next village. There we follow the road downhill until we finally find a suitable place to spend the night in a somewhat hidden quarry (for this the app park4night is also quite helpful for hikers).

Put up the tent, cook, enjoy the last warming rays of the sun and go to sleep.

Highlight of the Day

The Senica viewpoint over the Soča River and Tolmin

Day 2 - Stage 10/9 of the Juliana Trail, 18 km

Today is the first and fortunately only morning when we have to pack up our tent in a drizzle. That happens in no time, breakfast is later.

Again, sharp, steep mountain slopes pile up in front of us. First all down, then steeply up again. At least the weather is gradually improving.

Since we can't find a good place to picnic anywhere (we are spoiled with good resting places in Switzerland), we eat our muesli on the steep forest path without further ado.

Green, lush, mossy forests surround us. It is magical! Then the sun finally comes out again.

After a steep descent, we reach the stage destination Grahovo ob Bači, where we - oh, how wonderful! - find a restaurant. Most Slovenian mountain villages are deserted, without a place to stop or a store, so we are always happy to find the smallest tavern or the most ordinary pizzeria.

Like here. Pizza and white wine with a view and sunshine. How did we deserve this again!

The reserves replenished, we fly on. And not enough surprises, shortly after we find a lonely bathing place. It is cold but refreshing.

When we have found the right way again, it goes uphill again. Up, up, up.

Finally, we reach the ridge where we pitch our tent. Not too early. Because already the wind blows in the next shower. But we are lucky and it merely brushes us.

But the tenacious wind that blows through the whole night makes us sleep only fitfully.

Highlight of the Day

Pizza and wine in Grahovo ob Bači (under other circumstances it would not even have been a good pizza, but today it is delicious!)

Day 3 - Stage 9/8 of the Juliana Trail, 18 km

The night was cold. Quickly we take down our tent on the ridge and look for some morning sun and water.

Warmed up and invigorated, we continue marching up and down the green hills.

To reduce today's hike by about 100 meters in altitude, we skip the finish of stage 8/9 and don't descend to the valley. The Juliana as well as the Alpe Adria Trail like to chase us up and down the steep slopes. 700 meters of altitude are enough for us today.

As the path finally pushes us up through an enchanting beech forest, it begins to rain and thunder heavily. Again our ponchos prove that they are worth every cent.

Heads down and up we go through the green dampness. On the way, we meet a giant earthworm, arm long! We have never seen anything like it.

Since we like to listen to the exciting podcast "Weltwach, we don't even notice how quickly we arrive at the top of the hill.

We are amazed by the view over the mountains, the stormy sky, and the path we have already walked.

From here we follow the way downhill. Idyllic little houses lie everywhere surrounded by pine groves and willows.

We hide again somewhere in the middle of the bushes and cook something warm, while the sun disappears behind the Triglav mountains.

How we enjoy it! Constantly being outside, with the sun into bed and with it up again, all the animal sounds around us, not a soul in sight.

But up here it's getting cold. So we hole up in the tent early and read each other to sleep.

Highlight of the Day

The view from Lovski Dom (hunting lodge) of Podbrdo, where we are rewarded with sun after a stormy steep climb.

Day 4 - Stage 8/7 of the Juliana Trail, 15 km

The next morning we pack with freezing fingers, knowing that it will be better today. The sun shows itself early in the morning.

Down in the valley, however, there is still a picturesque veil of fog, which we are now heading for.

At 16°C we arrive in Bohinjska Bistrica, where we fortify ourselves with black coffee and a piece of warm strudel at Café Štrudl (pronounced Shtrudl).

The town is the eastern stepping stone to the Triglav National Park with many accommodations, restaurants, and a museum.

We continue hiking to the popular Bohinj Lake, a pearl of the Julian Alps.

At the camping in Ukanc, we can camp in the little forest right on the shore of the lake. Of course, not alone, because everywhere where beautiful waters are to be found, one meets crowds of people.

But that makes little difference to us right now. Otherwise, we are always nearly all alone in nature. Hence a little socializing doesn't do us any harm.

Here we want to wait for better weather and explore the surroundings of the turquoise lake.

And of course, once again take a shower and wash everything...

Highlight of the Day

Naturally, Lake Bohinj, which shimmers in all shades of green-gray between the rocky mountains. A paradise for all nature lovers, children, and adults alike.

Day 5 - Having a break at the lake

It is cold again this morning because this time we are also sitting under the fog cover.

That doesn't seem to matter to other campers, who are more hot-blooded than we are and throw themselves into the lake early.

Most, however, explore the lake in canoes or SUPs (stand-up paddles).

We on the other hand prefer to go for a walk until the sun finally appears at noon.

As we soon realize, we are not the only ones who have heard of the Slap (waterfall) Savica, about 6 km away. At the latest at the entrance booth, where we pay 3 Euros per person, it is clear that the waterfall is a famous tourist destination.

Steeply climb the stairs through the forest to a shelter by the waterfall.

It's a bit crowded up there among all the sightseers, but of course the fall is a postcard view, although it's not spewing too much water at the moment.

In white foam, it falls down between the rocks into a turquoise green pool.

People line up in front of the barrier to get the best possible shot. So do we.

Back at camp, we relax on the shore of the lake and live into the day. Later we eat something tasty with local beer, play ping pong and read in the hammock before snuggling into our sleeping bags.

Highlight of the Day

Although we don't usually think much of tourist hotspots, the Slap Savica is a natural spectacle not to be missed when visiting Lake Bohinj!

Day 6 - Stage 7/6 of the Juliana Trail, 14 km

Today we are in no hurry. The sun pierces the fog cloud a little earlier today and promises a wonderful day.

Only at noon and only after we have showered again, we leave.

We walk along the quieter lakeshore, without road, without traffic.

In the village of Stara Fužina (Old Hammer), where we shop, we resume the official Juliana Trail.

The trail only touches the lake. But it would have been a pity not to stop here for two nights.

Along green pastures, farming villages, and pointed hills we walk through the flat valley.

We don't want to go too far today. Because soon the way will rise again to cool heights. And besides, you should not camp wild in the national park.

Therefore, we set up camp just outside the gates of the national park; again, somewhere in a grove on the edge of the trail.

We enjoy the sun and the view over the mountains and the lake in the distance, all to ourselves.

Tomorrow we have a tough stage ahead of us. That means early rise and shine!

Highlight of the Day

Today the whole day was just nice and pleasant, sunny and dry. Besides, the route, except for the end, was pretty flat through lush green land decorated with steep rock walls.

Day 7 - Stage 6/5 of the Juliana Trail, 25 km

We're up at 6 am as we have a long stretch ahead of us today. But also to reach a nearby viewpoint early and watch the rising sun as it illuminates the valley deep below us.

And we are not disappointed. The sight is simply magnificent!

All to ourselves we get to enjoy this place in silence, drink coffee and let the first rays of the sun warm us.

We look far over the valley. But Lake Bohinj is once again under a cloud of fog. Well, even so, the sight impresses, which leads to the fact that we linger here a little longer than planned.

Finally, however, we set off and hike through pretty little villages, over cow pastures, and through mixed forests, accompanied by the sun up to about 1300m altitude.

The boundaries between the national park and inhabited land are not always clear to us. What is certain is that the area we pass through is farmed. This is evident from the cattle pastures, the logging in the woods, and the small residential areas, which may only be used as vacation homes nowadays.

Either way, the area is enchanting. Behind the forests and pastures, the sharp mountains of the Triglav range rise into the sky, we walk through moorlands and, who would have thought it, once again we unexpectedly find a restaurant - the muuu bar (moo bar).

But the big highlight of the day still awaits us. We enter it in the evening after having already hiked 25 km.

First, we descend the path steeply through the forest, then we follow a thin grade, and later an even steeper earth staircase leads us down into a dark hole.

We walk with open mouths through the big cave, then further into a huge gorge.

We continue climbing the stone stairs, vertical rock walls shoot up to the left and right. One might expect that such a marvelous place would be teeming with people. But we are the only small figures in the middle of a natural wonder.

Further up, a wooden gallery was built into the rock face. I now walk along of it, look down on Seraina in the depths and feel like the last adventurer.

A metal staircase leads me through a narrow crevice. Darkness surrounds me. I feel my way through it until all of a sudden golden rays of sunshine shoot toward me. I step out of the cave as if into another world.

Ahead of me, the path continues to wind past dense ferns and tall trees until it gets lost somewhere in the forest.

Nearby we find our last, wild sleeping place in the forest. It is not far from Bled and thus the end of our long-distance hike.

Highlight of the Day

This is clearly the Pokljuka Gorge which for me is a real highlight of the whole tour.

But also the viewpoint on Vodnikov Razglednik at the beginning of the day was quite something.

Day 8 - Stage 5 of the Juliana Trail, 14 km

Quickly we have packed up again and are on the road, through the first settlements before Bled. Directly on the lake is the camping Bled. In this 5-star campground, they don't want us, because you have to stay at least 2 nights.

So we set off in the direction of Bled on the other side of the lake.

With crowds of other tourists, we walk along the shore and photograph what we can.

The pilgrimage church of the Assumption of Mary on the small island in the middle of the lake and the castle of Bled in the background, which towers over the city, are famous motifs. Just type "Bled" in the search engine and look at the pictures.

The fish on the shore are also often photographed. Not because they are particularly special, but because the water of the lake shimmers so brightly turquoise that it seems almost ghostly.

A few kilometers outside Bled we find River Camping Bled, beautifully situated under pine trees by the river.

There we meet already for the third time the Belgian Dave, who curves through Slovenia with his dog Stella and an old ex-military ambulance Mercedes converted to a camper. Each time we joke that we will certainly meet again; so at Lake Bohinj, then here in Bled, and later even for the fourth time in the megacity of Ljubljana.

Highlight of the Day

The views of the lake, the castle, and the church on the island, but also the feeling of having reached our final destination. For the time being.

It is our last night in the tent. However, before it dawns, we stroll to Bled Castle and dine in a local restaurant worth mentioning.

A wonderful end to a wonderful journey on foot.

I reflect and go into raptures. We have never traveled so slowly before. In your own car or public transport, it's a completely different feeling of traveling.

On foot, we got a lot of impressions every day and got to know the areas and landscapes immediately around us.

We had to fight for every kilometer ourselves. A lot of time to perceive, think about, and store everything around and also inside us.

From Jesenice via Kranjska Gora on the Alpe Adria Trail, along the Soča to Tolmin. Over the mountain to the open-air museum about the 1st World War a first time to Italy. Different language, different customs. Criss-cross over the hills and through the woods, always back and forth across the Slovenian-Italian border, around Trieste to Muggia, where the first trail ended. On to Piran, a few days vacation in Croatia by the sea, and back to Triglav National Park to finish our hike with the Juliana Trail. All this in only 5 weeks.

5 weeks in nature, packed with adventures and new experiences. Sometimes cursing, but mostly in a good mood, we mastered our first long-distance hike with bravado.

If you've never done it before, you should definitely get your backpack on for a few days or weeks and try it out for yourself. You will definitely be rewarded.

Für uns ist aber erstmal genug. Morgen nehmen wir den Zug nach Ljubljana, wo wir 3 Tage lang die Stadt erkunden wollen. Zurück in die Zivilisation mit all ihren Vorzügen und Lastern.

Juliana Trail Slovenia Photo Movie

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By the way, we did stages 2 and 1 of the Juliana Trail at the very beginning of our Slovenia long-distance hike, before we turned onto the Alpe Adria Trail route in Kranjska Gora. You can read about it in the report:

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