Italy,  Slovenia

Alpe Adria Trail

October 15, 2021 /

Alpe Adria Trail - From the Alps to the Sea

  • Created in 2012, the Alpe Adria Trail officially begins at the foot of the Grossglockner in the Austrian Alps and runs for about 750 km and 37 stages through Austria, Slovenia, and Italy to Muggia on the Adriatic Sea.
  • We started our long-distance hike in Jesenice, Slovenia. Our first two days of hiking belong to the Juliana Trail (Stages 2 and 1). Only in Kranjska Gora we took up the Alpe Adria Trail.
  • Officially, the stage destinations are in villages and towns, where accommodation can easily be found. We deliberately stayed somewhere in the middle of the stage to be able to pitch our tent undisturbed. Who wants to know more about our exact places we stayed overnight erfahren möchte, is welcome to ask us directly. 
  • The gorgeous Soča Valley in the Triglav Nationalpark is worth the trip to Slovenia.
  •  The open-air museum on the Slovenian-Italian border above Tolmin (stage 27) gives an impressive insight into the events of World War 1. The 360° view from here is phenomenal. A highlight!
  • The app „Alpe Adria Trail„ helps with orientation on the hike and gives a lot of background information. You can't always rely on the map though.
  • On https://www.alpe-adria-trail.com/en/the-trail/ all details about the trail can be found. You can also book hiking packages and accommodation, as well as the transport of your luggage.
  • In August, south of the Triglav National Park it was often over 30°C. Therefore water a very important issue. More about this under the next point: The 4 Ws of long-distance hiking
  1. water
    If you're not sure when you'll find the next water source, fill up your bottles every chance you get. Top tip: There are always water taps at cemeteries!
  2. Way
    Always know your destination. Even if trails like the Juliana Trail are very well marked, there are always gaps. Apps like maps.me help you not to lose your way!
  3. Weather
    Pay attention to the weather and prepare accordingly! Will it be hot? Do you always have enough water? Is it raining? Poncho handy? In the mountains, the weather can change dangerously without warning!
  4. Weltwach
    For us, Erik Lorenz‘ podcast „Weltwach“ is exciting entertainment, e.g. during steep climbs, during which we like to distract ourselves with some magical travel stories. Of course, there are many interesting podcasts for this purpose (another one we discovered on our hike: „Geschichten aus der Geschichte“ (stories from history, obviously in German))

We packed pretty well for our first time long-distance hiking. We always carried about between 11 and 14 kg per person, a weight that we didn't notice anymore after a few days.

You can find our packing list in this post

What were we particularly happy about?

  • Shower bag (having running water in between for showering, brushing teeth, washing up is a nice luxury)
  • Good, tested sleeping bags and mats are a must
  • Waterproof lightweight tent
  • good camera (despite the extra weight, it's simply more fun than a cell phone)
  • 2 pairs of shoes (hiking shoes and either sandals or comfortable sneakers for non-hiking time).
  • Hammocks (luxury of course, but were often used for sleeping or just relaxing)
  • some wifi (to get necessary info about weather, campsites, etc.)
  • maps.me highly recommended for offline navigation
  • Rain ponchos (we often needed my big one as a rain tarp)
  • Few clothes (1 set of hiking clothes + 1 set of evening/substitute clothes).

What would we no longer pack?

  • Small grill (used only once and only to use it once)
  • Water filter (at least in Slovenia not necessary, there you can find drinking water everywhere)

Overview of the Slovenian and Italian part of the Alpe Adria Trail

(These are stages 24 - 37, which we describe in this post).

From the Austrian Alps to Kranjska Gora, the beginning of the trail we did not hike. For the sake of a complete picture, we show it here anyway:

Day 1 - Stage 2 of the Juliana Trail, 2.4 km - Arrival

Stage 2 of the Juliana Trail? Is this report not about the Alpe Adria Trail? Yes, it is. But when we arrive by train from Flims in Switzerland via Sargans, Schwarach St. Veit, and Villach in Jesenice, the first Slovenian stop, we don't know yet that we would walk the Alpe Adria Trail.

Of course, we have read up a little about Slovenia in Flims, and we have heard of the Juliana and the Alpe Adria Trail. Nevertheless, so far we only know that we want to go to the Triglav National Park and the Soča.

So we get off the train in Jesenice at 6 p.m., half an hour late, saddle up our backpacks for the first time, and start marching through the small town illuminated by the golden-red sun.

Soon we are on a steep forest trail. We follow the Juliana Trail signs until we find a hidden green pasture; ideal for camping.

By the way, if you want to read the post about the Juliana Trail noch nicht gelesen hast, , you can do so here.

Highlight of the Day

The feeling of having arrived in Slovenia and the first night in the tent.

Day 2 - Stage 2/1 of the Juliana Trail, 19 km - First long-distance hiking day

It rained a bit last night although we had hoped to have escaped the wet Swiss summer.

Today we wake up to low-lying clouds, drink coffee, and set out on our first long day of hiking.

Up and down the trail leads us through the hills of the Julian Alps along the Slovenian-Austrian border through sleepy villages, small forests, and farms.

Soon we realize that we can follow the yellow dots which seem to be the equivalent of our yellow hiking sign diamond in Switzerland.

It starts to drizzle again. Earlier than hoped, our ponchos prove to be the ideal rain protection.

We go down into the valley to the Sava River and the village of Mojstrana. There we shop a first time in a Mercator and dry ourselves in the warming sun afterward.

We continue walking along the river and have no idea how close we are to the Triglav National Park.

We realize this only when we have already pitched the tent and discover next to us a national park sign hidden in the bush, on which, among other things, we are advised not to camp out wild in the park. Good that we are just a few meters outside!

It's a rainy night. On the precipitation radar, we see more and more new fronts coming at us from the west.

We are wondering what to do. It doesn't look like it will get better in the next few days. Find a room and wait for the sun for a few days? Or just get on the bus and drive further south or east?

As it turns out, we will do both, at least a little bit.

Highlight of the Day

The sun when it finally breaks through the clouds at noon and brings warm weather.

Day 3 - Stage 1 of the Juliana Trail, 14 km - Always raining, what now?

Because of the persistent rain, we slept badly. How wonderful it is that the sun already appears again in the morning. We realize now, on the morning of the third day, what an important role the weather plays in our hike.

We continue past picturesque waterfalls, over mountain rivers, through mossy forests. The closer we get to the tourist town of Kranjska Gora, the more hikers and especially cyclists we meet. Almost 100% of them are day-trippers.

Kranjska Gora

When we finally reach Kranjska, we are greeted by a pretty village built at the foot of the scenic Triglav range.

The weather doesn't look that bad here. We still decide to take the bus over the high pass and down into the Soča valley.

Now we would already be on the Alpe Adria Trail, which intersects with the Juliana in Kranjska Gora.

But since we are sitting in the bus and enjoying the spectacular view of the gray pointed peaks out of the window, this section doesn't quite count of course.

The picturesque Jasna Lake near Kranjska Gora

Towards evening we reach Kamp Jenic, where we have rented a rustic cabin above a fireplace. For 3 days we want to nestle here and wait for nice weather days.

Besides, this place right on the Soča River has something nostalgic for me. I visited Slovenia for the first time 14 years ago with my sister.

Since then, a lot has happened. I can't say for sure, but I think many new campsites have sprung up in the valley. It is teeming with campers and hikers; Triglav National Park has become a famous destination in Europe. Rightfully so, of course.

Highlight of the Day

Our cabin in Kamp Jenic directly on the Soča river

Day 4 - Stage 24 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 14 km - From Kamp Jenic to Bovec

Now we are glad to have a roof over our heads. It rained the whole night. Not only that kept us from sleeping but also a sudden rustle at the food bag. A bold mouse invited itself to us. Only reluctantly she let us ask her back outside. My stomping didn't impress it much; I think I heard it laughing derisively.
Later we learn that the mice feel very comfortable here on the farm camping. Our neighbor had to even kick one out of his caravan.

In the morning, however, the sun peeks out again and we set off - this time without heavy luggage - along the Soča down towards Bovec, the outdoor Mecca of the region. The humid weather creates a mystical mountain landscape in front of our feet. Gentle clouds of mist lie over the turquoise-blue Soča, which winds through narrow gorges, here called Korinta.

The clouds get lower and lower and unload full force for an entire hour. Within a short time, we are soaked to almost our underwear, despite the ponchos. There's nothing we can do about it except keep walking downstream along the wooded shore. It is not only wet but also fresh. Then the sun warms our hearts and minds when it finally appears again.

A bit damp, but still in a good mood and fascinated by the wild beauty of the Soča Valley, we arrive in Bovec, a small but lively town with many tourist offers.
We strengthen ourselves in a bar with a Slovenian Pale Ale (from a microbrewery originating from the area called Reservoir Dogs) and watch the hustle and bustle of the people.

Later, after shopping, the shuttle bus takes us back to camp in 20 minutes. There we light a fire, take a hot shower and chat with other campers from Switzerland and Germany around the campfire.

Highlight of the Day

The Soča, which after every bend leaves us open-mouthed.

Day 5 - Stage 24 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 8 km - From Kamp Jenic to Trenta

After it rained a lot again in the morning, the sun starts to warm us up at noon. Maybe even our clothes will still dry?! After a delicious breakfast in the family restaurant of the Kamp Jenic, we walk along the Soča upstream towards Trenta today.

Only at breakfast, during which we get into conversation with a young Swiss who has cycled here from Switzerland, do we finally decide to tackle the Alpe Adria Trail. There is something about hiking from here out of the mountains to the sea by our own efforts. What landscapes will await us there? How will the border crossings to Italy be - especially now in this strange Covid time?

Yesterday we made the lower part of stage 24 of the Alpe Adria Trail on the way to Bovec. Today we want to complete this stage by hiking to Trenta at its beginning.

The Soča River on this route is not quite as spectacular as yesterday, but the sunshine gives us a wonderful contrast to yesterday's hike. Along the river, through mossy, rocky forests it climbs gently. Again and again, we catch a glimpse of Triglav (translated "three-headed"), the highest peak in Slovenia at 2864m.a.s.l. and namesake of Slovenia's only national park.

In the evening, around the fire, other people join us once again. How the light and warmth of the fire attract people! Although it is a cheerful night, we don't go to sleep too late. We are looking forward to tomorrow when the real hike on the Alpe Adria Trail will start.

Highlight of the Day

The sunny day in Kamp Jenic on the Soča!

Day 6 - Stage 25 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 19 km - Let's begin!

At 8:49 am there is no bus today (it only runs on Saturday at this time). We stand waiting at the roadside next to the entrance to Kamp Jenic and only now notice this. The first bus to Bovec comes two hours later. So we go back to the camp and have a big breakfast. Homemade sheep cheese, salami, eggs, artisan jam, honey, and bread. Add to this: sunshine. That's the way we like to start a day.

This is a comfortable way to wait for the bus
Shortly after 11, we are finally in Bovec. After a short grocery shopping, we are equipped and ready for the road.

In the beginning, we fight our way over muddy forest paths soaked by all the rain. Slippery and really tiring. The Slap (translated waterfall) Virje is the first highlight of this stage. Since there is an access road almost to the water, we are far from being the only ones here.

This is also the case with the next waterfall, the Slap Boka. It can only be seen from a distance, but it is very impressive. The highest waterfall in Slovenia falls over 100 meters into the depths. Many steps lead to different viewpoints where people are crowding. We take the obligatory photos and return to the trail, where we are pretty much the only hikers. We like it better that way.

We continue along the Soča, which is unfortunately rarely visible as there is a lot of bushes until after 6 o'clock in the evening we finally find a lonely spot on a rock directly on the water. Here we want to make ourselves cozy.

Highlight of the Day

 The Slap Boka and our lonely spot on a rock on the Soča.

Day 7 - Stage 25/26 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 20 km - A climb that really packs a punch

We didn't sleep much. For one thing, the loud roar of the Soča disturbed us, and for another, the tent stood somewhat precipitously, so that we had to fight our way up from the foot of the tent again and again during the night. "Will it stay dry tonight?" "Yes yes, putting up the inner tent is enough."
It didn't. In the middle of the night, I had to force myself to get up and throw the outer tent over our heads.
Still a bit tired, we set off and climb up into the mountains. Via Dreznica, where stage 25 turns into stage 26, we keep panting upwards. 6 kilometers we continue upwards along a jungle path. 6 kilometers, which have it all! Sweaty, we finally reach the pass, where we are greeted by a soldier's chapel built by the Italian regiment during World War 1. What a view from up here.
We gaze across the valley deep below us. How far we have already come!
Almost at the top! We can just make out the Adriatic Sea on the horizon for the first time.

On the other side, we descend leisurely, first through the cool forest, then further over cow pastures, until we surprisingly come across an alpine tavern. We don't have to be asked twice. A cool beer refreshes and loosens the muscles.

Further and further we hike into the valley in search of a suitable place to sleep. It is already 7 pm when we find a cave. The ground is a bit hard, but with our inflatable mats, we will cope with this night. The viewpoint around the corner I'll have to mention with one word: "Wow!"

In the distance, we can see Tolmin with the castle on the hilltop. Our tomorrow's destination is a bit behind it, the campsite Siber on the outskirts of the town.

Highlight of the Day

Well, yes, actually, the entire day of hiking. But if it is to be just one thing, it is our today's unconventional camping site.

Day 8 - stage 26 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 10 km - break in Tolmin

Today we do not hike far. It's just under 10 km to Tolmin. You quickly realize that the place is another mecca for outdoor enthusiasts. We meet paragliders, kayak groups, bikers... The area just invites you to jump into the adventure.
Just follow red-green-blue
But Tolmin is not only known for that. It also hosts several festivals. Today, Sunday, by chance, the Reggae Openair is just ending. Too bad, we, unfortunately, missed it. Nevertheless, we get a bit of a festival vibe, as the Alpe Adria Trail runs right through the grounds. There is a general atmosphere of departure, people have already started to clear up. Still, it's nice to get a taste of open-air after a long time.
First signs of the 1st World War in Tolmin
We arrive just after 12 noon at the campground, which is wonderfully located on the river. We don't plan to do much more than eat in town today. It's not far to Italy now, but we're still separated from the border by a whole kilometer of altitude over a distance of about 9 km. There we will have to bundle our forces again. But we let this fact be tomorrow's worry for the time being.

Highlight of the Day

The morning coffee at the viewpoint near our cave.

Day 9 - Stage 27 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 11 km - WW 1 at the open-air museum

This morning we take it easy. We buy a fresh gas cartridge and food in Tolmin. But not too much food, because today it will get steep.
Alpe Adria Trail Wegweiser
This Alpe Adria Trail stone shows us the way
At noon, in wonderful sunshine, we cross the Soča towards Volče. After the pretty village, the small road becomes steeper and steeper. In the next five kilometers, we have to climb almost 1000 meters. The road becomes a rough path through the forest. "Only 5 kilometers...", we encourage each other. It's super exhausting. At least, we can walk in the shade. And listen to podcasts. That distracts a bit from the screaming muscles.
Steiler Weg auf dem Alpe Adria Trail
From this stage on, the subject "drinking water" becomes interesting. For this, the app maps.me is again quite helpful; there are even drinking water sources marked. I have started to mark them in light blue in the app. Because nothing works without water. We'll get to feel that soon enough.
When we reach the top, all the uphill hardship is forgotten. We marvel in all directions; views up and down the Soča valley, views over the hills of Italy to the sea...
But not only that; we are standing here on former war territory. The tunnels in the mountain were created during the 1st World War when the Italian artillery skirmished with the Austro-Hungarian positions on an opposite hill for 2 years. The galleries have been restored to give future generations a glimpse of what it was like around 1917. What has emerged is an impressive open-air museum on the ridge.
The "Peace Trail" leads south on the hiking trail that is almost identical to the Alpe Adria Trail. Therefore, up to Trieste, we are repeatedly confronted with contemporary witnesses from the 1st World War.
It is already evening as we climb through the trenches and ruins, still fascinated. We need to replenish our water reserves and find a tap and even a cold beer at the Rifugio Soliere mountain restaurant on the Italian side. Ahh, wonderful!
Finally, we return back up to the first viewpoint of the ridge. We decide to spend the night here on the Slovenian-Italian border. For we want to be able to enjoy the view tomorrow as well.

Highlight of the Day

The open-air museum on the ridge that marks the Slovenian-Italian border and the views all around are a real highlight of the entire trail!

Day 10 - Stage 27/28 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 25 km - Too hot + not enough water = No fun!

Early in the morning, I open the zipper on the tent. A few meters further, the wall drops 1000 meters into the valley. The morning sun is just beginning to give the mountains a golden-orange hue. I grab the camera and go on tour for an hour.
Our excellent camping spot
We are not quite the only ones who have stayed up here in the open-air museum. There is a camping bus with German license plates in the parking lot. Truly, a phenomenal place to spend the night (at least in clear weather. Had we been up here a night earlier, we would have been caught in a violent mountain thunderstorm!).
Although we have breakfast in the sun with a 5-star view, nevertheless, in the cool breeze it is still pretty cold. But that should change today.
With fresh energy, we march down to Italy. I still get goosebumps when I think of the old woman who absent-mindedly approached us looking down. She doesn't notice us until we are almost crossing each other. She is so startled that she lets out a high-pitched scream that makes us flinch too.
„Uff! Bunogiorno, signora….“
Suddenly, the path rises steeply again. 300m it goes up to M. Cum, also packed with old information boards about the 1st World War. But otherwise, this path offers us nothing. Neither a view nor a bench for a break. We huff and puff our way up through the bush. It is hot and we are sweating. At the top, there is nothing, only the steep path back down the 300m.
On maps.me, I only now see how easily we could have bypassed this hill. We would have saved a little more than half an hour and a lot of energy. And not missed anything in the process. When I think that this stage 27 starts in Tolmin, then shoots up 1000 meters to the open-air museum, then drops back down into the valley to climb this wretched hill again, I'm glad we split it into two stages.
Alpe Adria Trail Deviation
For all those who pass here: You may confidently go around M. Cum!
Finally, we arrive in Tribil Superiore, the end of the 27th stage. Neither a restaurant nor a store can be found here. Niente. Unfortunately, we also neglect to fill up our water bottles at the village fountain, which we will regret.
Here everything is still fine
It continues over hill and dale through shady forests and green, hilly pastures. Isn't it true that you can always find a watering hole when you don't have any need for it? And then suddenly there's no well when you really need it.
Thirsty and overheated, we continue hiking through the woods. We have no other choice. But it is not really fun anymore.
The last drop of water is long gone and it is already evening when we get close to civilization for the first time today after Tribil Superiore. There, a restaurant! A Fata Morgana? No. Although we even pay for refilling the water bottle and the Coke and the Radler also cost more than we are used to from Slovenia, the cold drinks bring back our spirits in no time. "Tshshsh, aaahhhh!"
A little further on, in the park of the sanctuary of Castelmonte, we cook a simple evening meal and enjoy the quiet evening atmosphere under the pine trees. Then we fill our drinking bottles to the brim and walk on towards the next stage destination, Cividale del Friuli.
It is already dark when we hang our hammocks between the trees somewhere in the bush for the first time to spend the night. Comfortable and exhausted we fall asleep under a twinkling starry sky.

Anti-Highlight (Lowlight??) of the day

Not having any water. And the unnecessary, energy-sapping hike up the darn M. Cum!
On the top of M. Cum. Great, huh?

Day 11 - Stage 28/29 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 20 km - Beautiful, hot Cividale

Well rested, we get out of the hammock early and set off for Cividale del Friuli, a few kilometers away. As we stroll through the morning Italy, we once again encounter a river. Well, only two days have passed since we crossed the Soča. But I can tell you, when you're on foot for a long time, the space-time continuum shifts.
Maybe not, but the sense of time can be lost quite a bit. In any case, it feels much longer since we saw running water. So we hop in the river and wash. How soothing!
In Cividale we sit down in one of the numerous ristoranti and order a well-deserved lunch. Not to be missed is the half liter of delicious vino bianco di casa. We like the old town. The typical Italian piazza is surrounded by restaurants and bars, the narrow streets provide shade, the delicatessen stores make your mouth water.
It is hot. Surely 33°C. We shop at the Coop. Here in Italy, everything seems to be a bit more expensive than in Slovenia, as the receipt from the supermarket tells us. When we step out of the refrigerated store, the heat almost overwhelms us. We prefer to drink a cold beer and wait until the temperatures drop a bit later in the afternoon.
Medusa on the piazza of Cividale
After 3 o'clock we go on, back to the Slovenian border. We get a little off the Alpe Adria Trail and take the faster route along the road. Through small villages, along vineyards, we come back to the border river into the hilly, woody Slovenia.
Once too often we rely on a path shown to us on maps.me, which results in having to fight our way back up a steep slope to the road through an overgrown thorn bush.
After the last descent down to the creek, we finally arrive at 8 o'clock in the evening. Down here in the jungle it is almost dark. We pitch the tent, light a fire and use the grill for the first time. We don't want to have brought it with us in vain. Entrecote with tomato and cheese in tortilla dough. And a bottle of red wine. In addition the ripple of the small brook. Wonderful!

Highlight of the Day

Cividale. Sometimes on a hike, it's nice to have more than just bush, forest, and fields around you. A beautiful Italian town like Cividale is a welcome change.

Day 12 - Stage 30 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 14 km - Hot and hotter

Already at 10 o'clock in the morning, the sun begins to burn. We walk through beautifully winding vineyards, past countless wineries. But the Slovenian summer heat almost finishes us off.

We are oriented to cemeteries. No, we are not looking for open graves. But we are sure to find water in cemeteries. We spend midday, when the temperatures reach their zenith, in the shade of large oaks. We look out over the grape plantation into the shimmering distance. Now a little siesta is the only right thing to do.

In the afternoon, too, we make only slow progress. It is not really healthy to walk in the blazing sun now. And there is hardly any shade to be found in the vineyards.
Finally, we arrive in Dobrovo. We look at the castle only from a distance. More important for us is the Mercator. There I buy cold Coke, Radler, and beer. Outside in front of the door in the shady heat, we drink everything at once.
Online, we look for affordable accommodation. Without success. The next one we find in Italy in two days. Well, the shower will have to wait.
In Slowenien ist der Alpe Adria Trail gelb-weiss markiert
In Slovenia, the Alpe Adria Trail is marked in yellow and white. But it is not always so clear in which direction we have to go...
Fortunately, not far outside Dobrovo, we find a small trickle. Under other circumstances not worth a side note, but today very welcome. We cool and wash as best we can and spontaneously decide not to continue but to spend the night here among the vines on the meadow.

Highlight of the Day

Every bit of water we found on that hot day.

Day 13 - Stage 30-32 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 24 km - From Šmarto back to Italy

At 6 o'clock in the morning, we get up and walk for half an hour to the lookout tower near Šmarto before breakfast. Up there it is blowing fiercely, but we are rewarded with a wonderful panoramic view of Slovenian and Italian landscapes. In the distance, we can see the Triglav range. On the other, the flat Italy that borders the sea somewhere back yonder.
The old town of Šmarto is dressed up and trimmed for tourism. It is situated on a hill and will always be visible from a distance.
We walk over the ridges through the morning Slovenia, accompanied on the left and right by vineyards and wineries. There is also accommodation for rent in the form of apartments, but no restaurants and only one store far and wide.
Then we cross the border into Italy a second time. It is a bit milky today, but still very hot. Through the beautiful park in Bosco di Plessiva, where we can fill up our drinking water, we climb another hill (the Alpe Adria Trail probably doesn't want to miss any climb). At the top there is a ruin, from where we have a magnificent view in all directions; back to Slovenia to Šmarto and in the other direction the town of Cormons and behind it the Italian plain.
The water is already used up again. Good that we discover another public water tap down at the church. There we also run into the Belgian couple again, whom we have already met twice yesterday. They are also on the Alpe Adria Trail but have already started in Villach.
Down in Cormons, we fortify ourselves with gelati e birre, and later in the afternoon, we hike to the Laghetti Rossi, lakes, or rather larger ponds in a natural park. There we cook something tasty and watch the local fishermen, who are dressed like American hunters.
We discuss our future and do a little dreaming in the past. Then the Weltwach podcasts about the lovable Margot Flügel-Anhalt and the exciting life of Mike Horn also provide plenty to talk about (Weltwach episodes 205 and 206. The Mike Horn one is in English).
As we climb the hill behind the lakes to set up our camp for the night between the vineyards, we joke that we will surely see the Belgians again up there. And indeed, they have chosen the same campsite as us!

Highlight of the Day

The medieval village of Šmarto and the wine-growing area around it. By car, you could certainly spend a few days exploring the area.

Day 14 - Stage 32 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 11 km - Once again on the Soča River

At sunrise, we get up and start hiking to the Isonzo plain. In Slovenian: Soča. We refuel at a cemetery and continue until we reach the river at 10 o'clock, where we treat ourselves to a refreshing swim. The Soča is much wider here than in the Slovenian mountains. The stony beach feels a bit like being at home on the Aare, perhaps with a touch of Ticino.
Von hier ist es noch einen Katzensprung bis nach Gradisca d’Isonzo, wo wir uns beim zuvorkommenden Furio Gaudiano im B&B Eggenberg ein Zimmer nehmen. Es wurde uns über die App Alpe Adria Trail empfohlen und hält, was uns versprochen wurde. Das Zimmer ist einfach und günstig, Dusche warm und der Garten grosszügig. Und natürlich ist, wie es sich für ein Bed and Breakfast gehört, das Frühstück inbegriffen.
In the hot afternoon, we stroll through the local market in town and swim a go for a little swim in the river. In the evening, we eat out: delicious pizza with an excellent vino di casa. Cliché? Of course! And delicious too.

Highlight of the Day

Once again the Soča and the evening ambience in the center of Gradisca.

Day 15 - Stage 33 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 17 km - Overheated

We know that it will be too hot again today. Nevertheless, we enjoy the morning with a delightful breakfast served to us by dear Furio. With our rudimentary Italian, we can at least converse with him a bit. As we step out onto the road with our backpacks, Furio points to the thermometer. Be careful, he warns us, already 33°C!
Aussicht Alpe Adria Trail
Sculpture with a view and a museum about the 1st World War
At first, I think it's going pretty well. Have we gotten used to the heat? But then at noon, the slight headaches begin, the eternal thirst, the red steam boiler feeling.
I hardly have any strength left. Even the beautiful pine forests and the occasional views of the sea don't help much. We shorten today's route a bit and deviate from the Alpe Adria Trail.
In the cemetery of the small village of Jamiano, we shower with our water bottles. A little later we call it a day and span the hammocks in a forest. We are only a few kilometers from the sea and only a little more than 4 stages from the end of the Alpe Adria Trail. Slowly but surely we start to think about where we want to go afterward. Further to the hot south? Back to the wet north? Or what would await us in the east?

Highlight of the Day

The cooling shower at the cemetery and our cozy place to sleep.

Day 16 - Stage 33/34 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 11 km - Duino with seafood

Well, we were lucky again, last night! Sleeping in the hammock brushed by the thunderstorm. Thunder and lightning, a few raindrops. But no more.
We hike the last few kilometers of stage 33 to Duino, where we encounter the Adriatic Sea for the first time.
God, we were looking forward to lunch! Truly Italian, spaghetti with seafood and fish in lime sauce, served with a splash of white wine. Simply exquisite! The joy of food is simply part of traveling for us.
Unfortunately, we can't get into the castle complex right next to our restaurant "Al Pescatore", because it is only open in the morning (except on weekends). From there you would have a great view of the coast and the Castello Vecchio di Duino. We have to find another vantage point, it seems.
On the cliff at the edge of a pine forest, we walk on a popular path out of Duino. There we are treated to beautiful views of the sea and the castle after all. We enjoy the sea breeze and wait for the temperatures to drop out of the red zone later in the afternoon.
Not until half-past four, we leave the inhabited coastal area and enter the countryside. In the karstic forests, we find a convenient place for our tent. We remember last night. Even though the area would be perfect for another night in the hammock, we don't trust the blue evening sky. Rightly so.

Highlight of the Day

The bulging blue Adriatic Sea near Duino. And the lunch
(Bulging blue? An insider, sorry 😉)

Day 17 - Stage 34/35 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 20 km - Cooling off in Trieste

I can't sleep. Maybe it's the exciting ending to my audiobook, Jo Nesbo's The Leopard.
At half-past eleven they rush up, louder and louder. They are the apocalyptic horsemen.
First is the wind, which sweeps unstoppably through the trees. Then the lightning and rumbling, finally the heavy drops. A good thing we pitched the tent, I think, when the floodgates open. For a short moment, it booms and pours. Jupiter and Zeus smash around what they have.
We in the small tent. In the forest. With trees all around us. Waiting and hoping.
The village of Prosecco with top views of Trieste and the Adriatic Sea
As quickly as it came, the thunderstorm disappears again. It did not last longer than half an hour. We were lucky! Neither were we struck by lightning or a tree nor did the tent give way to the masses of water.
The next morning is calm and a bit cooler. We continue hiking to the village of Prosecco. Then we leave the Alpe Adria Trail briefly to make a detour down to the promenade on the outskirts of Trieste.
The obelisk of Opicina
Somewhere we miss a trail marker and have to march down the long, steep main road. We have to watch out for traffic, but the view of Trieste and the azure Adriatic is enchanting.
Down in the park right by the sea there are small bars where we sit down with our backpacks among the locals to enjoy a sprizz bianco and the sea breeze.
But then we have to climb the 400 meters of altitude back into the hills. On the spur of the moment, we decide to spend a night at the Opicina campsite. A good choice. Here we can shower and cook comfortably. The campground is simple, many permanent campers seem to spend a large part of the year here. The people at the reception and in the bar are very hospitable and the view down to the city is a feast for the eyes.

Highlight of the Day

The cozy park by the sea in front of Trieste, although it is not part of the Alpe Adria Trail.

Day 18 - Stage 35/36 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 21 km - Horse breeding in Lipica

During the night strong wind had come up. At the reception, they say that when the wind starts from the mountains, it does not stop for 7 days. In summer a welcome cooling, but in winter a big problem when minus temperatures freeze the water pipes.
We pack up and leave for Slovenia. First, we get to continue catching great views of Trieste and the sea. Then it's down through the forest to Italian villages and from there across the border.
Here the huge estate of the traditional Lipizzan horse breeding awaits us, of which the village Lipica is the namesake. The history of the Lipica stud farm dates back to the 16th century. Bright horses graze numerously in the pastures around a facility that appears somewhat socialist and decayed but at the same time attracts rich clientele. Hotel with golf course included.
We move on, up into the mountains again. At the top we find the mountain refuge Kokoš. The owner asks us if we would like a cold beer. Oh, if that's what it takes 😉
Feeling so refreshed, we once more take the wrong path. Well, back up the slope again and down the other side. We are still in Slovenia. But a stone's throw away lies Italian territory. Every day we cross the border, back and forth to the final destination of the Alpe Adria Trail: Muggia.
In the forest, thanks to maps.me, we discover a water source. A good place to pitch our tent.

Highlight of the Day

Should I say Lipica? The horses were graceful to look at. But we found the whole estate a bit peculiar. We just like it better in the mountains. And since there aren't many of them in Slovenia, our highlight of the day was probably the Kokoš mountain hut, surrounded by sun and pine trees.

Day 19 - Stage 36/37 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 19 km - On to the last stage

Again, we wake up to a sunny day. Along the border we walk through Slovenia, soon cross over into Italy and stand in front of the spectacular Rosandra Valley. Wow! What a view. We picture ourselves in the west of the USA.
The hiking route leads us across the rocky valley down to Bagnoli della Rosandra, where the last stage of the Alpe Adria Trail begins. The Rosandra Valley is well known. Suddenly we are no longer the only ones on the trail. As mentioned before: where there is water, there are people. Even if the river that formed the valley carries little water, they still swim here.
In the village, we shop for dinner and tomorrow's breakfast. Then, as usual, on to the cemetery, fill up with water and up into the mountains. Steeply we fight our way up the rough path until we arrive at Socerb Castle. The ruin impresses us little, unfortunately, the restaurant is closed. Also, the wide view of Trieste was nicer before. We make out a lot of industry from here.
On the other side, however, we spy our preliminary destination, which we should reach tomorrow. First, the trail leads us steeply down that it burns in the knees. In Osp we find a restaurant, to which belongs a small campground. Should we settle down here, nice and comfy? No, one last time we want to spend the night in the wilderness.
Letzte Etappe auf dem Alpe Adria Trail
A part of the next ascent we still manage today. We lie down in the meadow at the edge of the forest and look at the starry sky. Suddenly we hear the flapping of a large bird's wings, which lands right in the tree above us. Carefully, I shine the flashlight up. No kidding? There really sits an owl on the branch. I turn the flashlight off again.
We are quiet as mice and listen to the night. After a while, we hear the sound of wings again. There she flies, our hostess.

Highlight of the Day

The Rosandra Valley with its beautiful swimming spots. But also the first-time experience with the owl, the queen of the night.
At the end, the legs get heavy 😉

Day 20 - Stage 37 of the Alpe Adria Trail, 17 km - End of the trail

After the last climb comes - well, what? - another last ascent. Fortified with coffee and bread, we tackle it. Through the village of Tinjan we walk down to the sea. And then, finally, we enter the old town of Muggia, our heads held high. Not that anyone would notice.
But we actually made it. Not the entire, but at least the Slovenian and Italian part of the Alpe Adria Trail. 
We have taken a liking to the refreshing spritzed white wine which you can get here for about 2 euros, and toast to celebrate.
Am Ende des Alpe Adria Trails
At the end of the Alpe Adria Trail
It is noon. The trail is at an end, but our hike is far from it. After checking out Muggia, eating pizzas and Italian ice cream, we head over a hill again, back into Slovenia, and settle in for the night at a modest campground just outside Koper, Slovenia's big port city.
From here we want to take the bus, or several buses, to Piran tomorrow. We deliberately skip this part of the route, so as not to follow the port area of Koper for kilometers. We can continue hiking from the beautiful town of Piran, from where it's only a few hours to the Croatian border.

Highlight of the Day

Yup, the feeling of having reached our destination, the end of the Alpe Adria Trail in Muggia. Bravo! *clap on the shoulder*

Bonus: The days after

The bus station in Koper is closed, but not extinct. After all, we are not the only ones waiting for a bus. However, we have to realize that the online timetable is not usable. Although several buses per day from Koper to Piran are indicated, they do not run when they should.
Along the coast to Piran
Anyway, the ride is cheap (80 cents per person) and an hour later than expected we get off at the port of Piran. We have found a campground nearby (Camping Fiesa), which, as advertised in the comments, is not absolutely worth a visit. It's crowded and hot there, as well as on the beach. For one night, however, it will do.
We are not here because of the campsite. No, we want to have a look at Piran. The winding alleys, the old houses, the piazza... a visit to the westernmost point of Slovenia is well worth it. Sure, the place is overly touristy; it's teeming with restaurants and accommodations. But despite the many people, we find Piran pleasant (quite different from the neighboring village of Portorož, the region's Ballermann).
Like everyone here, we sit down at a table on the promenade, order a beer and watch people. After a delicious dinner, we observe the sun as it sinks golden-red into the sea. A little vacation after all the wandering we have well deserved.

How we continued

The next day we tossed on our backpacks again. The destination: a small campsite on the coast of Croatia, 12 km from the border. There we spent a few mostly sunny days by the sea, celebrated Seraina's birthday, and contemplated in which direction we wanted to continue hiking.
What turned out, you can read in the articles
 
 
and
 
I think the 20 days on the Alpe Adria Trail were a complete success. We spent most of the time outside in nature and yet civilization was never so far away that we had to plan in advance, e.g. for food. It was also exciting to see the border between Slovenia and Italy blurred. If the language and also the culture were not so different, who would have noticed that he/she was no longer in the same country?

We would have happily hiked further and further south to explore parts of Croatia. But at the end of August, it was still so hot that it would probably have been more torture than a pleasure to continue the hike south. Still, we would have loved to just keep going, without a destination, on foot, just following our noses.

 

But that which is not, may yet be.

The End

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