Road Trip Mexico
Mexico – Epic Journey 2016-18 Part XIV
Tepotzotlán
It's been a few years since we last visited Mexico. When we arrive together with Ben, Mäsi picks us up and we start the long journey to Tepotzotlán by metro, train, and cab on the outskirts of what must be a metropolis of 30 million people.
Here Mäsi lives with his Mexican wife Pamela whom we meet again every few years either in Switzerland or then in Mexico.
They have been building their home for a few years. Most of the house is already standing, the garden is being worked every day. Everything is self-made.
Unfortunately, Ben has little time. After a night of boozing with quantities of mezcal, we accompany him to downtown Mexico City, which is about two hours away. Together we rent an Airbnb and spend a few relaxing days in the city.
Then Ben is gone, back in Oakland, California, and we are getting ready for a new road trip at Mäsi's place. Mäsi and Pam want to show us some sights north of the DF (Distrito Federal, as the Mexicans call their capital) in their VW Beetle.
Yes, it is a bit cramped, four of us in the Beetle, but just pure nostalgia. I like to remember the time back in 2011 when we toured Mexico for months with our orange Bocho (VW Beetle). Just like back then, we don't get far until we have the first breakdown.
Well, in Mexico you always quickly find someone who knows about beetles, and soon the journey can continue.
Opals in Mexico
The first destination for us is the opal town of Tequisquiapan where we are welcome to try our hand on a booked tour. We try our luck and dig for raw opals armed with hammer and chisel.
Small stones glittering in all colors are easy to find but the really beautiful ones we buy from an artist.
In the evening we camp at a viewpoint where we have a fabulous overview of the region.
We drive on through hilly central Mexico towards a natural wonder. There are long hours in the car which the four of us demand a great deal from. Every now and then we take breaks to enjoy the stunning view, or to drink a beer.
Bridge of God
Our next destination sounds promising: Puente de Dios, the Bridge of God. After the cool heights of the Sierra Gorda, we turn off the main road and curve down a gorge into which a turquoise river has carved itself.
We follow it on foot upstream through jungle vegetation, over woody bridges and stairs until we stand in front of it.
I imagine myself as one of the early adventurers and explorers who scouts the jungle and is suddenly surprised by a natural wonder.
If the word "magical" fits anywhere, it's here.
Puente de Dios beguiles the senses. A green river flows gently out of a massive cave. Several small waterfalls shoot down on us, the sun sends its rays through the water, which glows and shines.
I feel as if I am in an enchanted world. Surely we would enter another dimension if we followed the river through the cave to the other end.
But the place was discovered a long time ago and made more or less tourist-friendly. So at the entrance where we parked our bug, there is a camping and various palapas selling tortillas, beer, and pulque. Before we continue our journey, we treat ourselves to a bite, because there are again many kilometers of mountain and valley ahead of us.
Many people have recommended El Geisir in Hidalgo, says Mäsi. "There are hot springs and a geyser where you can bathe. And you can even spend the night there, all in the middle of the desert!"
Not only that, we soon discover. One is even allowed to eat and drink in the thermal bath. We are the only western pale faces in the bath. Many pot-bellied Mexican families are splashing around happily in the warm water, eating papas fritas, and drinking sugary drinks or beer. The water is pleasantly warm, but not exactly appetizing when you see food floating in the water.
After all, it can't always be just stunning.
Caves of Tolantongo
The next day we quickly move on to the last destination. Truly the highlight of the trip! The caves of Tolantongo.
Once again, it is thermal springs that we are aiming for. You always think of Mexico as a hot country. Mostly it is, but in the central highlands it can cool down quite a bit at night. So a hot bath is very welcome.
And it's not just any bath. The pools are located on the hillside above a deep valley. The view from the water into the mountains is a delight.
"That's what I call enjoying life," I murmur to Seraina as I melt with bliss, "how did we deserve this?"
The photos give at most the appearance of an impression. But you can't really imagine it, you have to visit Tolantongo yourself.
And that's not easy, especially if you don't have your own vehicle and no local guides, like us. Tolantongo is in the middle of nowhere and that's why it's not in every travel guide.
How wonderful that we can experience this gift.
Why it is called the Caves of Tolantongo, we learn as we tackle the short hike into the mountains.
Up there at the spring it is possible to bathe in the hot water in a large cave. We just have to try everything!
Between all the other mermaids and mermen we frolic in the dark cave until our skin melts off our bones.
We camp on the grounds of the thermal bath. The bath also has a restaurant and a hotel. There are quite a few people here, we are not alone as you might think. But this does not diminish our experience at all.
Project: Clay Oven
Soaked and deeply relaxed we make our way home. 180 kilometers back to Tepotzotlán. There, after this wellness vacation, a few days of work on the land of Mäsi and Pam await us.
The project "building a mud oven" is on the agenda. This time it is not a pure clay oven. Instead, we are using a metallic barrel as an oven. It lies above the fire source, with sand in between to insulate the heat. In order to irradiate the barrel with heat from all sides, we have to keep a layer of air between the barrel and the clay wall with a wire grid.
It's fun to tamp clay once again and watch the kiln grow. Before we can try it out, Seraina and I travel on. We don't have too much time left and still have a long way to go before we travel back to Colombia in mid-March.
Ahead of us are the beautiful city of Oaxaca, Mazunte on the Pacific Ocean, which was a home for us years ago. Then the enchanting Chiapas, where we will visit San Cristobal and Palenque. And finally, the Yucatán Peninsula, where we plan to see friends and family.
But more about that in the next story.
Epic Journey 2016-18
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Epic Journey 2016-18
Forward to Part XV:
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