Colombia,  South America Tour 2013-15

San Gil – Minca – Palomino

South America Tour 2013-15 – Part II

San Gil

Arriving in San Gil after the mighty Bogota is relaxing. For the time being, we put up at a hostel run by Silvain, a French-Swiss, and take a walk to get a first impression of the town. With its 45000 inhabitants, it is larger than we first thought, but it is still quiet. The town is nestled in green hills, divided by the wild Rio Fonce.

In the Parque Natural El Gallineral in San Gil

We are not very interested in all the adrenaline kicks on offer, such as river rafting, paragliding and canyoning. We would rather know where we can settle down here for a little longer. On Airbnb.com, we come across the coffee finca where Justin and Andrea live with their son Inti and daughter Sami (their names come from the indigenous language Quechua: Inti means sun, Sami energy).

Our first meeting with the Anglo-Colombian family takes place in the central park of San Gil, amidst the Halloween hustle and bustle. Little Batmans, Super Marios, Shreks, princesses cavort around us. The kids are visibly having fun. The whole thing is a huge colorful bunch that we can hardly get enough of.
Then they stand in front of us: bloody, torn faces, black eye sockets, cowboy clothes. A zombie family from the Wild West.

La Pacha

We quickly agree with Justin and Andrea and move in with them the following day. We quickly make the acquaintance of the young, somewhat overzealous boxer dog Lucho and the in contrast small, quiet "mini-Labrador lady" Foxi. The constantly whining for food Puss and the stubborn goat Manchita, who gives birth to her little Isi not long after our arrival, complete the family.

Then there is Alex, a young English volunteer who is helping Justin with construction work. He found Justin on the website workaway.info, which he highly recommends to us in case we would also like to work in exchange for room and board on our trip through Colombia and the world and get to know local people better in the process.

We start with that right away. After paying rent and food at the beginning, we ask Justin and Andrea for a job and start our work shortly after.

And there is enough of it. The two want to open a hostel/tent site here as soon as possible. Some things still need to be built, some things need to be repaired: yurts, dry toilets, a camping kitchen, a hammock shelter and an old bus that is to be converted into a chill-out zone.
While Seraina sets about creating the logo and design for the future "La Pacha Hostel", I take pickaxe and shovel in hand...

It's not just the work and the beautiful region that make us want to spend several weeks here. Above all, it is Justin, Andrea and Alex with whom we can share a section of our path, and everyone we have met through them.
In addition to the busy days, we always have time for excursions into the surrounding area; for example, to the colonial town of Barichara or to the river Pescaderito which is perfect for swimming.

Ayahuasca

But we would like to tell you about something else:
I have heard and read about it many times. The curiosity to try it out myself has never waned.
Ayahuasca. The magic potion of the Amazonian shamans. The medicine made from a liana that helps one gain more clarity about life. It is said to purify you. Physically, mentally, as well as spiritually.
Grand words. Is that true? What is behind it? If I ingest this, am I not the same as I was before?

Through Justin and Andrea we get to know Juan, Claudio and the others who regularly hold yaje ceremonies. "Yaje" is what they call the drink in the form of which one takes "la medicina", the medicine; another word for Ayahuasca. Translated from Quechua, "Yaje" means something like "vine of the dead" or "tendril of the souls". Depending.
They all swear to make use of this medicine as often as possible, to purify themselves, to unite with the spirit inherent in it, and to connect with God.

(I assume you know that when I speak of God, I'm not talking about the big bearded guy, that's Santa Claus. I'm talking about the one who makes your houseplant grow, who warms your skin on a nice winter walk, who you smell in the trees and flowers. I'm talking about the one that gives you the feeling you can't describe when you experience something wonderful. The one you feel when you find yourself smiling without knowing why. In other words, of that God who is in you and in everything that surrounds you. A God we can hardly imagine in our westernized world, but who is omnipresent in many corners of the earth).

Cathedral of Barichara

Pablo, who is part of Juan's circle of friends, describes the effect of ayahuasca this way: "It's like you have an extremely fast internet connection for a short time. Your thoughts are completely clear. You know who you are, where you come from, where your path will lead."

I am curious about that. We agree to participate in a ceremony. In order to prepare for it, we have to fast for one day, which means eating only fruits and drink lots of water, but especially not using alcohol, tobacco, coffee, and animal products. This for the purpose of simplifying the purification, to intensify the effect. But also to prepare our stomachs for the coming efforts.

At nine o'clock in the evening we arrive at the small finca. Juan, his long black hair tied in a ponytail, will conduct the ceremony. He welcomes us with a hug and introduces Claudio, who will assist him. They are both about my age and wear clothes of the native Indians. Also present is Magdalena. She is a shaman, a healer, as we learn later, and will also accompany the eight or so participants through the night and help them.

"We sat by the fire and waited. My nervousness was building up. Somehow I knew that the experience would be positive, that there was definitely much to learn. Still, I was dominated by a fear of "near death," of falling into the unknown, of being dominated by something I didn't know. Don't fight it, I said. Just breathe calmly and let it happen.
First, Juan wanted to know about our consumption habits. Whether we drink, smoke, like spicy food, and so on. Since we answered yes to most of that, he knew that first our bodies, mainly the kidneys, needed to be cleansed. So we were each given a large jar of a bitter whitish slag to force down. And sure enough, it wasn't long before we both jumped into the bushes and emptied our stomach contents.
Soon after, Juan began the ceremony. He pointed out to us what it was about. We must let the spirit of medicine work, ask it what we want to know from it. To recognize the almighty power in nature and connect with it. Get away from the surface and superficiality, go deep within ourselves.
While Claudio incensed us with copal, Juan said prayers, invoking the spirits to help us with palm fronds and harmonica. Each of us was given a small sip from a legume cup. The stuff tasted bitter, something fermented.
After that we all lay down, some by the fire, others a little further away into the darkness.
Nothing happened for a long time. An imperceptible calm came over me. A feeling of being a mother, of having everything under control and being able to protect everyone.
I could have spent the whole night like that. Then the effect became stronger and stronger. Good, I thought, now is the time. Like giving birth, breathe evenly and always know that this state will pass. Despite visual changes, the oppressive effect subsided somewhat over time.
So it changed again and again from the inside to the outside, from the inner feeling world to the outer world. Like a pulsation, which sometimes became stronger, then weakened again.
After hours, I felt like I was waking up from a fever dream. My body bathed in sweat. I imagined how everything bad would be pressed out of it and let it continue to sweat.
As a next step, Juan blew cleansing snuff into one of my nostrils with a kind of pipe, then into the other. I became instantly dizzy and quickly settled down by the fire. With difficulty I crawled to the edge of the place to vomit up completely. It was amazing how much came out. It felt like all energy was being drained from me. Trembling, I tried to prop myself up so that I could spit again and again.
Then finally it was over. My body felt like an empty shell, yet I was comfortable now. As if reborn, freed from everything bad, connected with the earth, life and my body. My mind, my spirit, perfectly clear.
After a sip of water, I sank back onto the mat to relax my tired body. It continued to dance before my eyes, but I felt good, clear and ready for life.
At some point during the night, Magdalena sat down with me. Her hip against mine, bent over me, the shaman began to talk to me. I was confused at first. "What is she doing? Is she getting that close to everyone right away? Do I really need to focus on this conversation right now?"
That was difficult. I would have liked to tell her to share her life story with me later, I would have liked to lie down and sleep. But I kept silent. I thought to myself that I could at least try to get something out of it.
Over time, I was able to do that. She told me about her enthusiasm for life: "I love to laugh and just do what I like. If someone crosses my path who radiates badness, I leave him alone. He has his life, I have mine. Everyone has to learn for themselves. Every person is just a person. If you know that, nothing can happen to you.
I was in Bogota, in the dangerous streets. I was not afraid. Because when you know that everyone is only human, you connect with everyone, love everyone in a certain way. Your counterpart notices that and treats you differently. When you are happy in your heart, you know who you are and where you want to go.
You have a fire in your belly and know that if you like it, you stay, if you don't like it anymore, you move on. You fix your goal, raise your chest and move forward courageously without avoiding difficulties. On the easy path you learn less than on the difficult one. Because that's what you want: to learn, to progress and not to be afraid of life. All the knowledge you need is already within you.
When I was little, I didn't have any books. We didn't have money for them. I didn't get an education. But once I was able to borrow a book from a friend, and I liked it very much. My friends said I couldn't understand the book at all without education. I didn't care what they said. I understood it and I liked it.
It was then that I realized that you can understand everything if you understand yourself and life. You don't need education to understand. You don't need money to go your way. A strong will is much more important. Too much education confuses the mind.
I learn what I need at the moment and concentrate on that. If I need something else later, I learn it then. I enjoy the day and laugh. My laughter makes others laugh, which carries on and on. A seed planted by me spreads.
No one, no ruler, no rich person can command over me. I am a creature of nature, like all of us, and nobody's subject. I look ahead and courageously follow my will."

At some point I fell asleep. It was already light when Claudio woke us up with a hot panela (sugar water) and a piece of bread. I got up, not yet fully sane, but as if reborn."

(Of course, Seraina left out some things in her report. Things of a personal nature. Feelings and insights that concern only her).

For me it was a very exhausting night. I had to throw up a few times. Especially after the snuff administered by Juan, which had cleaned out my brain quite nicely, the medicine started to work a bit. But not too strong.
I had completely lost track of time, fell asleep again and again briefly. Claudio took care of me, wanted to know how I was doing, whether she was already taking effect, what was happening inside me. I tried to answer, but could hardly concentrate.
My body was vibrating. Why was I participating in the ceremony? What was the medicine supposed to show me?

When Claudio returned later, I had gained an answer.
"Paciencia" - patience. Then he began to explain to me what it meant. I listened intently. I had to be more patient, with my fellow human beings, with the world, but first and foremost with myself. Not only that, "Paciencia" is made up of two words: "Paz" and "Sciencia", that is, peace and science.

He interpreted this to mean that achieving inner peace is not easy. It is a science in itself. You have to work for it. Inner contentment is not a given, but something that one must strive for with daily, conscious practice.
Our conversation continued.
I was not overcome by enlightenment that night. Rather, a realization: that I already knew all this. The What? was clear to me. To return to the here and now with the help of breathing, to live in the moment, to put myself in other people's shoes and their situation, to be patient in life....

But How? was it to be achieved? The spirit of the medicine tapped me on the shoulders and pointed at it with its index finger. Practice makes perfect. Do things CONSCIOUSLY every day. Mental work plays an important role: meditation, Yoga, Taiji. Everything can be helpful.

The other morning, when I get up, I feel the effect of my last serving. It lies heavily on me. Thousands of bubbles buzz through my body. I don't need to experience that again, I think. I overcome myself to empty my stomach once again. Then, finally, I start to feel clear and strong. What a beautiful day has just begun!

Ayahuasca #2

Not long after, about three weeks later, we hear that Justin and Andrea receive a visit from a friend. With him they have already experienced countless yaje ceremonies.
Seraina and I are still working at the finca, but it tickles us. It's time to move on, the sea and the Sierra Nevada are calling us. Still, we do not want to miss this opportunity.

The little gentleman whom Justin accompanies across the finca to show him our work introduces himself to us as Hugo. The man radiates something extraordinary. The air around him seems to vibrate. As he begins to talk about medicine, about the wisdom in it, about God and the nature in which he is omnipresent, I realize that Hugo embodies everything I imagined about a shaman from the Amazon jungle.
After we have expressed our wish, he spontaneously agrees to guide us through the night tomorrow.

It is already after eight and already more than two hours dark on our finca, when he arrives and decorates the table, which we have converted into an altar, with his seven things. Alex, Seraina and I are already waiting by the fire, Justin and Andrea will join us later (so will Lucho and Foxi, their two dogs, who want to spend the night outside with us).

Hugo talks to the spirits, sings, makes noises. The mood adapts to him. Then he incenses the whole place with copal.
We begin by him cleansing each of us with the frond, saying prayers for us and spitting a sweet liquid from all directions over our faces, hands and bodies. He will do the same again at the end of the session.
When we are all prepared, we follow him one by one to the altar. There, a massive pinch of tobacco is blown through our noses. This almost puts me down to my knees and I feel sick.

A little later, when we are complete, we get to drink the bitter liana mixture and lie down by the warming fire, where we have already set up before with mats and blankets. The dogs cuddle up to us. Every now and then I get up briefly, add wood, look around. Seraina, Alex, Andrea, Justin. They are all lying there. Waiting. Or do they already feel something?

I also lie down again and wait. Once I fall asleep briefly. Then I notice Hugo's presence next to me. "Como estas? Bien?" he asks. I feel something. A physical tremor. It rushes and "chrüselet" everywhere. Yes, I am well, but the medicine does not work fully.

As the night progresses, Hugo picks up his guitar and begins to sing. The sounds waft over me. At some point Hugo sits down with me again. I should concentrate on the music. Is something happening? It is beautiful, relaxes me. I float in other spheres, try to let my body take off. It hums and vibrates.

But not much more happens. I negate questions about visions. Perhaps I still keep my emotions behind barricades instead of giving them free rein; something Juan already pointed out to me at the last ceremony.

"It's a process," Hugo explains to me, "where you can make progress if you trust medicine and reveal your intentions to it."

The medicine. I can feel it working. Slowly, it weighs heavily on my stomach. But I can't throw up. Seraina tells me later that it happened to her the same way. I tell Hugo, who lets me take off my sweater and T-shirt and then cleans me up as at the beginning with palm leaf fronds, chants and the liquid that he sprays over my naked body.

I feel the bile coming up slowly. To top it off, I get a white juice to drink. I take just a sip - and jump. The brew comes up instantly. Whew, that felt good!
Unlike me, Seraina has sunk to low levels. I envy her. She reacts much more sensitively to such things, has, I think, much more of them.
While I am already asleep, she is still far, far away, on her own personal journey.

Although I gained few insights that night, I really enjoyed the ceremony thanks to Hugo's special aura. The next morning, despite the little sleep, I feel clean and well all around. I wish every person in this world that at least once in a lifetime he and she can experience this carefree feeling of lightness that dominates me at the moment, in their own body, more importantly, in their soul. I hope we will accept Hugo's invitation to visit him on the Amazon.

The Caribbean Coast of Colombia

Minca

Before we know it, our month at Casa Feliz in Minca is up. During this time we got to know the village and its surroundings better. On hikes through the sierra, where we were usually accompanied by one or two dogs from the village, there were always new things to marvel at. From the Pozos Azules (basins formed by water) to various waterfalls, we often passed shelters in the middle of the forests of the surrounding mountains.

As remote as they may be, not only a few tourists get lost there. We too would like to spend a few nights out there in the mountains. But we are very happy with our little house in Minca and often just linger at home, reading, writing, painting, playing, cooking, eating and enjoying.

When after Christmas more and more tourists flock to the coast and also to Minca, it becomes almost busy in the village. Minca has dressed up. The hotels and restaurants are full. We also take advantage of this and display our jewelry by the river.
As in Mexico, it is mainly local tourists who like to make gifts for friends and family and shop with us (here you can read our Mexico story).

Our tourist permit for Colombia expires at the end of December, just as our month at Casa Feliz ends. We think back and forth about whether we should travel briefly to Venezuela, just a few hours away, and then return to Colombia with a fresh three months in our passports.

In the end, we decide to buy a new permit at the migration office in Santa Marta. Having paid the equivalent of forty francs each, we are allowed to travel undisturbed through Colombia until the beginning of April.
We extend a week in Minca because we will not get bored here so quickly. But since January is the highest high season, the prices for accommodations double almost everywhere.
We look around and finally find a hotel on the internet in notorious Taganga that offers cabañas for such a low price that it must have a catch somewhere.

For the New Year we treat ourselves to a hypothermic evening at the movies: The Hobbit in 3D 😀

Taganga

Nevertheless, we book it for five days and are lucky twice.
First, we meet the 61-year-old owner of the hotel Miguel Angel, with whom we quickly become friends. Because in his kitchen there is an oven. He falls in love with the fresh bread that Seraina conjures up from it at the first bite. In addition, there is fresh fish from the local fishermen almost every day, which we prepare on the grill together with Miguel Angel. Even Seraina becomes a pesquetarian.

On the other hand, the hotel price actually has a catch. Either the fault lies with Miguel Angel or with the company Hostelworld, on whose website you can search and book hostels all over the world. Somehow, the point for the rental amount was set incorrectly on their homepage, which led to the fact that not only we are allowed to stay in Miguel Angel's cabaña at a ten times lower price.

Remorse over Miguel's losses quickly evaporates. We become friends with him and mutually enrich our time together.
Already Mauricio in Bogotá told us that you either love or hate Taganga. And which side are we on now?

In this small fishing village, where for some years now foreign investors have been raking in the big bucks with hotels and discotheques, pushing the locals further and further away, you can party every night. If that's what you're looking for, you've come to the right place.
If you prefer it a bit quieter, like us, you probably won't last long in Taganga. But since we met Miguel Angel and his pretty bamboo bungalows, we like it here quite well. The dry heat and the strong wind also characterize Taganga.

Here, too, we try our luck on the street and fit in between the countless artesanos. In two days we sell two pieces of jewelry. This may be worthwhile for others, but not for us.
We'd rather spend our time with Miguel in his quiet sanctuary than with all the people on the streets of Taganga.

For the first time in Palomino

Our next destination on our journey eastward along the Caribbean coast is called Palomino. An Artesano told us about "La Casa de Simon". We ask for it and find it quickly. It is not a hostel in the true sense of the word, yet it seems to attract most of the people who pass through this small village.
This is probably because they are mainly young artesanos, musicians and other artists who can stay here with Simon in a tent or a hammock at an accommodating price and exchange ideas.

Palomino is magical. Like Minca, it is located near the Sierra Nevada. Splashed by water from the snow mountains over 5000 meters high, it shines green and fertile out of the arid surroundings.

Where the river meets the sea

In the mountains live the Kogis. In Palomino, one often encounters members of the indigenous people dressed in white robes, the men also with the head covered with a large white hat. They are small people who live in seclusion in villages high up in the mountains. Nevertheless, they seem to be open to people who are interested in their culture and wisdom. We hear from different people that they exchange with them, work and live together with them to learn from each other.
Not only jungle and mountains attract people, also the ocean and a dreamlike palm beach enchant more and more tourists and travelers. It is still rather quiet in Palomino, but already now a tourist development can be felt. It remains to be seen where it will lead.

One day we meet Nat from Australia. He tells us that he recently got hold of a small piece of land and now lives in Palomino. Not bad, we think, and listen to him excitedly when he mentions that there are other favorable offers in Palomino. But more about that later.

Cabo de la Vela

After all, our journey does not end in Palomino. We take the bus to Riohacha, the capital of La Guajira, from where you can get by car and 4×4 jeep through the desert to Cabo de la Vela. Here on the peninsula, in the very northeast of Colombia near the Venezuelan border, live mainly indigenous people, the Wayuus. Cabo is a small dry nest, the sea hardly moves, but a dry-hot wind blows constantly.
At first we don't quite know what we are looking for here. Through the day it is simply too hot to venture out into the blazing sun. Only early in the morning and in the evening it is advisable to go for a walk. So that's what we do.

Before sunrise we start hiking to explore the surrounding desert, salt lake and coast. Cacti and so many different kinds of rocks that not only a geologist's eyes overflow, provide us with an extremely interesting day. Soon, however, the sun burns so strongly again that not even the wind can refresh.
There would still be a lot to do out here. The beaches further away and the Macuira National Park, which is an oasis for a significant biodiversity of animals and plants in the middle of the desert, are difficult to reach and accordingly expensive.

Buying land in Palomino

After three days, we travel back to Riohacha and later on to Palomino where we have business attend to.
As soon as we are back, we contact Nat, who, as promised, first shows us his achievement, the piece of land on which he soon wants to build his own house, and then accompanies us through his neighborhood.

Searching for land in the sierra above Palomino

At our request, he shows us one of the pieces of land for sale and introduces us to the neighbor. Should we really do that? We could afford it. Only, we have to decide soon. Palomino is growing and so are the prices.
Over the next few days we'll find out about several other options, including acres of jungle that are so cheap to buy that we could buy several at once.

Buy land in the middle of the jungle?

After a few days, however, we actually decide on that small land in the village that Nat showed us first. There is nothing on it but a few mango and orange trees, coconut palms, sugar cane, and banana trees.
The deal goes smoothly. Without further ado, we are fresh landowners in Colombia!
Well, and now?

Cleaning up our newly acquired land

Back in Minca

Now, we are going to travel for the time being. To a friend, we give the task to look after our land during our absence and to keep it clean. Before we can think about building our own little cottage, we first have to save enough money. But in one or two years we want to turn this idea into reality.
First, we travel back to Minca via Taganga, where we have stored some of our luggage at a friend's house.

In the bird paradise Minca

What we have saved up for now is a hike up to the summit Kennedy, from where you can see the snow mountains of the Sierra Nevada early in the morning. At five a.m. we set off. By hitchhiking we can spare ourselves a large part of the way. Nevertheless it is a long march up through the forest. The vegetation changes the higher we climb. More and more moss and fern palms, finally also firs decorate the way.

The initially dark blue sky clouds over as the morning progresses. Only around noon, already over 3000 meters high, we arrive at the top. What we already knew for sure at the bottom, now comes true. Instead of white mountain peaks, it is dense clouds that await us. Only now and then we catch a glimpse of mountains in the distance. However, no snow-covered ones.

Nevertheless, the hike is a pleasure, even when our feet are already aching on the descent. Suddenly there is a rustling in the treetops and we discover a horde of howler monkeys. Among the many birds that always accompany us whistling and trilling, we can observe a few toucans, but they are reluctant to be photographed.
Just in time for sunset we are back at the Hotel Mirador with Fernando and Margerita. In their green garden we camp the last days in Minca, while the hummingbirds buzz around our heads.

We travel south

On the way back to Bogotá, we stop on the other side of the Sierra Nevada, in Valledupar. But we can hardly stand it for more than two days in the almost forty degrees Celsius in the shade. Only at the river it is pleasant. We soak up the heat and the sun's rays, because seventeen hours in a refrigerator on wheels await us.

With pleasantly hot temperatures in the Rio Palomino

When we finally arrive in the capital at seven in the morning, it is not warmer there either. Well, after more than three months of warm sunshine, the cool air doesn't do so bad.

Despite the unsurpassable hospitality of Mauricio and Vivi, we do not want to stay too long in this huge city. Just long enough to spend a little time with them and to concretize our further plans. Because soon we will cross borders again. Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile are already waiting for us on the other side.

South America Tour 2013-15

Back to Part I:

South America Tour 2013-15

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