USA zum 2., Mexiko zum 3. Aug 11

On a Great Journey 2010-2012 Part VI

USA

America's fascinating Southwest

We can't get away from them. The USA has captivated us with its diversity of landscapes, wilderness, and people.

It's almost exactly 10 years ago that we drove our proud Yank car, an 89 Ford Crown Victoria, which were used as police and cab cars in the 80s, through the states of Nevada, Utah, Arizona, New Mexico, and California.

Unfortunately, we became a bit lazy with writing but we still have photos from that time, which we do not want to withhold from you.

Again we started in Las Vegas cause the flight from Mexico to there was cheap, but also cause we already knew the city and where to stay and how to get a cheap car.

With our $900 ride, more like 2 couches on 4 wheels, touring surrounding national parks was even more fun.

Almost a little decadent. Down in Mexico, we left our VW Beetle to buy a second car up here, twice as big.

Well, he who has it, has it. Another highlight, as I now recall, was one of the last drive-in movie theaters we found somewhere in the California sticks. And as always, our new, as well as old friends in California, were gracious enough to give us another glimpse into their lives in the Sunshine State.

Sicht aus unserem Las Vegas Hotel by Night — View from our Las Vegas hotel by night

Sicht aus unserem Las Vegas Hotel by Day — View from our Las Vegas hotel by day

Im berühmten Zion National Park — In the famous Zion National Park

Unser Stolz: Ein bequemer 89 Ford Crown Victoria, der im Gegensatz zu unserem mexikanischen Käfer nie Probleme macht — Our pride and joy: a comfortable 89 Ford Crown Vic, which unlike our Mexican Beetle never gives us any trouble

Der Arches National Park in Moab, Utah, besuchen wir bereits zum 2. Mal — The Arches National Park in Moab, Utah, we visit already for the 2nd time

Auch Taos, New Mexico, mussten wir nochmal sehen — We also had to see Taos, New Mexico again

Unter anderem um Stan, den Zen-Priester, wieder zu treffen

Die bekannte Lombard Street — The popular Lombard Street

Alcatraz, einst Gefängnisinsel, jetzt Touristenattraktion — Alcatraz, once prison island, now tourist attraction

Bei Freunden auf der Farm am Fischen — Fishing with friends on the farm

MEXICO

Yucatán and Chiapas - On Tour with the Vocho

Back in the capital of Mexico, we are allowed to catch a glimpse of the Aztec culture. Our friends Oswaldo and Elias belong to a young troupe who want to revive the culture of their ancestors. They learn the ancient language Nahuatl, dance in traditional costumes, and perform long-forgotten prayer rituals.

A few days later, we set off for Yucatán, where our Mexico trip once began. This time we want to see more, which our orange beetle allows us to do. Countless known and less known ruins, caves, cenotes, and beaches await us.

Chichen Itza - funny and tragic

Our destination is Tulum on the Mexican Caribbean coast. But first, our way leads through the deep Yucatan and the dense jungle. Besides the simple villages of the Mayas, there are always fragments of ruins to be seen, which testify of a long-lasting culture and history. For both of us, Mexico here seems very different from what we experienced recently in the West. Much more rustic and more closely connected to the indigenous culture.

We often think of Guatemala, because there, too, the "modern" world has not yet spread so widely among the indigenous people. The gap between us and them seems to be bigger here than in other places. Farming and housework are still important parts of life. Animals run free, children play among them and mothers sit nearby, knitting - knitting and talking. But the closer we get to the many Mayan ruins, the more we feel the tourism. The villages are becoming more and more urbanized, hotels and restaurants are rising and the prices are not Mexican at all. Commerce dominates life here.

Auf zu den Mayas im Yucatán — On to the Mayas in the Yucatán

Seraina und unser Vocho machen Kapriolen — Seraina and our Vocho having fun

Die unbekannteren Ruinenanlagen sind fast menschenleer und deswegen umso eindrücklicher — The less known ruins are almost deserted and therefore all the more impressive.

Chichen Itza - so berühmt wie Machu Picchu in Peru oder die chinesische Mauer. Aber vor 10 Uhr morgens liegt sie noch still und verlassen da. — Chichen Itza - as famous as Machu Picchu in Peru or the Great Wall of China. But before 10 o'clock in the morning, it still lies there silent and deserted.

Aztec and Mayan calendar

Already in the Swiss news, I read about the nearing end of the Mayan calendar, which is to take place in a year, in December 2012. But not the Mayan but Aztec calendar was shown, which made us wonder a bit. They may have certain similarities and yet they are very different. But the news is only written by people and may, or should, be questioned more often. Just like the story about the unsafe crosswalks in Switzerland. But that is a different story.

We stroll through Chichen Itza. It's hot and the square looks more and more like a market. "Excuse me! One dollar, amigo!!! Barato! Good Price!", it shouts from all sides. None of us understands why they all sell almost the same thing. Market stall resembles market stall. With a little creativity, they would probably be in the lead. A woman is desperately trying to get rid of self-embroidered napkins for a ridiculous price, wooden figures for less than fifty cents. "They can offer their stuff as cheaply as they like, but if no one wants it, no one will buy it," Simon comments on the scene somewhat thoughtfully.

And suddenly I see it again, the Aztec calendar. It is offered for sale at countless stands. I'm pretty sure it's the Aztec calendar. But what do the Aztecs have to do with the Mayas? Why can one buy the Aztec calendar here? Asking the seller himself is the only solution that comes to mind. "This is the Aztec calendar and this is the Mayan calendar, is that right?", I ask him, pointing to the two calendars. "That's right. Just hold them in your hand." - "Thanks. Hmm, the Toltecs, after all, came from Aztec territory to the Mayans in the 10th century. Did they introduce the Aztec calendar here?" - "No. We brought it here from Mexico City to sell to tourists. After all, many of them just spend their vacations here and still want to buy the Aztec calendar because it's very famous." Simon can't help laughing. I just think to myself: Of course, that's easy.

Suppressed Mayan Culture

In Xalpa, near Mexico City, where we stayed with friends, there are many dance groups that carry on the Aztec dances and thus connect with their ancestors and culture. Oswaldo is also a member of such a dance group and so we witnessed this ceremony twice. Hours of dancing with powerful drum music, blowing shells and foot bells put even me as a spectator into a certain trance. So I was thrilled when we saw Mayan dance groups with large feather headdresses and body paintings at the entrance of Chichen Itza. Since it is the shortest day of the year, there should be a ceremony here in Chichen Itza, a great center and energy point of the Maya.

But in the complex no one knew anything about a ceremony, also the interest was probably not so great. Back outside, the group was already drumming and singing. It looked like they were just waiting to be let into the grounds. But when a member of the group returned from negotiating with the guards, we heard what the problem was. The cultural commission only let this group enter if each individual paid the entrance fee. It may be a small amount of money for tourists, but locals can hardly afford it, if at all. Thus, places that were built by their ancestors and were important cultural and energy places for them are now inaccessible to Mayans living today because of tourist money.

Bocho's last Days

During several weeks it already drives smoothly. We are proud and enjoy our Bochito. This makes traveling fun.
But in Tulum, it once again starts to stutter. Not so unusual. After this long-distance one simply has to replace spark plugs and other things. Clean the carburetor, some people recommend me. Normally, I would have to take the whole engine apart and clean it and replace consumables. But we want to sell it soon anyway. We don't want to invest a lot of money and work in it.
Will we make it the last 800 km or so to San Cristobal?
So far so good. It is still running. Not quite as smoothly, but we don't want to have to abandon it yet. We reject an offer of 8000 pesos. It is comfortable to travel in our own car. And we can't imagine carrying so much luggage in the bus.

So we set off for the Bacalar lagoon, less than two hours away - and it takes us all day to get there.
After only 40 km we stop. The engine doesn't start anymore. All the pushing and shoving doesn't help. The road is dead straight. Marshes on the left and on the right. There is little traffic. But after a while, someone stops and offers me a ride to Limones, 20 km away. He knows a mechanic there.

And so it turns out that our Bocho actually has to be towed once. After some searching and fiddling, our mech discovers the problem. A part near the gearbox (no idea what it's called exactly) is completely burned out and needs to be replaced. Fortunately, he finds a used spare part and uses it to get the Bocho running again. One or two months there should be no more problems, he says. So we arrive after a long day and 700 pesos poorer in Bacalar.
Only a few days have passed and the next big problem is looming. Already the whole day we are on the road again from Bacalar to Palenque. When we stop to take a short break (on the one hand we are hungry, on the other, the Bocho has to cool down every three hours), we hear a loud, ominous noise from the engine.

What is that now? It seems to be coming from the generator somehow. Oh, we'll make the last 100 km today, we hope. And indeed, we arrive tired and happy in the evening.
The next day we drive to the village. The engine, loud and unhealthy rattling. There a mechanic tells us that we have to change the generator. Otherwise, it would not take us anywhere anymore. We are both fed up. That costs 1500 pesos again.
I decided to ask if someone was interested in our car. After some back and forth and a few phone calls, a brother or cousin of one of the mechanics is found, who starts to negotiate with us. He only wants to pay 5000. Seraina insists. Not for the money, just to make it right. It is a matter of principle and it is really still worth 6000 pesitos. We know that, they know that. 6000 or we keep it. The brother/cousin finally makes his move.

It pains us a little to leave our problematic, yet beloved Bochito in the hands of this unsympathetic person. We clear out all our things. Phew! So much luggage! We can hardly carry everything. Packed, we trot off. From now on we are on the road again by bus. So it was not quite enough to get to San Cristobal. Sad but with a big load less we look back on our orange beetle for the last time.