Nicaragua – Costa Rica – Panama
On a Great Journey 2010-2012 Part VII
NICARAGUA
Isla Ometepe
We were a bit sad when we left Mexico once again. But we were sure: We would be back some day.
After a few weeks in Guatemala - we certainly had to return to San Pedro at Lago de Atitlán - we took an old, cheap chicken bus straight from Guatemala City through Honduras to Managua in Nicaragua; a long 25-hour journey across several borders to our next destination: the island of Ometepe in the largest lake in Central America.
We found here exactly what all backpackers have raved about: Tranquility and leisurely life in a time like 50 or even more years ago.
At Clara's in Mérida we were welcome to camp for free directly at the lake and later work for the Madrilenian Nacho on his farm/hostel for room and board.
I remember those weeks (or was it months?) as some of the most beautiful.
And eventually, our guests arrived from afar - how wonderful!
Not only Geoff from California but also my sister Elia traveled from Switzerland to visit us on Ometepe.
When Seraina's and my work weeks at "La Brisa" ended, we took a little vacation with the two of them.
We hiked up one of the two volcanoes, Maderas, went kayaking, and camped by the lake.
Five in San Juan del Sur
When we finally managed to leave Ometepe, we first made a short stop at the surfing town of San Juan.
That's when we met Geoff's brother Chris and his girlfriend. Now with five of us, it became even more fun, which got to feel not only one bottle of Flor de Caña .
Little Corn Island
Elias and Geoff's time was already up. Seraina and I, on the other hand, were not yet ready to leave Nicaragua.
We heard about the Islas del Mais, big and little Corn Island, in the Caribbean Sea, which we really wanted to see. Besides, Gina, our friend and diving instructor from Tulum, Mexico, was working there.
For us, reason enough to make the arduous journey to the Caribbean coast.
Although the long crossing was exhausting, especially Seraina was seasick for the entire 4 hours at sea, it was well worth the effort.
A gem of a paradise awaited us.
Caribbean flair, white sand, turquoise sea, reggae music...
COSTA RICA
Pura Vida in Gringolandia
At first, we were nearly denied entry. In any case, not without an exit ticket. We had one but from Panama, not Costa Rica.
Well, we already knew it. Pure rip-off. Right at the border post, a big bus line was selling their overpriced tickets from San José, the capital of the Ticos (that's what Costa Ricans call themselves) to Panama or back to Nicaragua.
In the queue in front of the post, someone gave us the inside tip:
"There's an intercafé back there. Book a flight, but then just print out the last page without clicking "pay". That's enough, it has all the data you need. The border guard doesn't realize the difference." Wink, wink.
So we went there, printed a fake ticket, and indeed, simply stepped into Costa Rica.
Sure, the nature in Costa Rica can probably hardly be outdone by any other country. Nowhere else have we seen so many different wild animals in such a short time as here. The country is bursting with national parks and eco-lodges.
Nevertheless, we dashed through it within 10 days. Why?
In a nutshell: Lots of package tourists, prices twice as high as in Nicaragua, paid in American dollars. Costa Rica, we started to call it Gringolandia, the Caribbean playground of the Americans.
Sounds very negative now. However, we have only seen a small part and would in no way advise against visiting this country.
Maybe it will be on our itinerary again one day.
PANAMA
A short, 3-week chapter. After more than a year and a half on tour, we slowly but surely began to feel the return date.
On the Caribbean archipelago of Bocas del Toro we had another good time.
But the closer we got to our final destination, Panama City, the stranger and more depressed our mood became.
We didn't really know what to do on this trip anymore and let the time pass somewhat apathetically until the return flight.
Then - bang - our time was up, the other reality had caught up with us and we found ourselves back home.
Despite all the experiences through these many unique countries - Canada, USA, Mexico, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama - we were nevertheless happy to be able to hold our loved ones in our arms again.
But one thing was crystal clear: Panama was not yet the end of the world. On the other side of the infamous Darien Gap were more, possibly even greater wonders waiting to be discovered by us.
Two years later, the time had finally come. Once again we boarded the plane to continue our exploration of the Americas. It was to be a fateful journey through a MYTHICAL SOUTH AMERICA.
There is no place to start this journey that sounds more exciting than: Medellín, Colombia.
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