Through the Atacama and Uyuni
South America Tour 2013-15 – Part VIII
Within two weeks we traveled several thousand kilometers in a blur from Geoff's cabin to Chile, where we were finally allowed to rest properly. Several flights and night buses set our internal clocks in frenzy, our bodies in turmoil.
Knowing full well that a riot was imminent, we forced ourselves further and further south to arrive early enough in San Pedro de Atacama to give soul and body a breather.
And what bliss to sit in the sun now, under a steel blue sky not unlike a glorious European summer day, to feel the breeze against our skin in a green oasis, surrounded by reddish-brown desert sand, here on the edge of the Atacama.
Long Way to Peru
In the two months in California, during which we sometimes didn't leave Geoff's cabin and the redwoods for days, we got to know the feeling of "ridgy". "Ridgy" is when you have spent too much time alone in the woods, or on your hill, and therefore feel a queasy feeling in your stomach when you leave your safe home.
This is not the only reason why we are happy to pack up our things once again and go on a trip. Nevertheless, the contrast didn't have to be so extreme right away. But that's how it turned out.
First Geoff drives us to San Francisco, where we say goodbye to him and promise to see each other again soon. The next day we arrive in Los Angeles after an eight-hour bus ride. For one day we have time to visit the hip - I don't like the word at all, but if it fits somewhere, then here - district Santa Monica. We both agree: If possible, this will be our last time here.
Then, finally, our flight leaves for Lima. The trip is a pain. It was cheap and that's why we jet across the States, change planes twice and arrive in Peru only 24 hours later. Exhausted, we throw ourselves into the hotel bed.
We don't have much time. In two weeks we have an appointment with Seraina's parents in San Pedro, Chile, 2000 kilometers south of here. And we don't want to fly. On the contrary, we are planning a detour via Bolivia to get a picture of the country we want to take Esther and Roland through.
In the two days in Lima, we only get a brief glimpse of the city. Too big, gray, and chaotic for me, but Seraina feels comfortable.
Shortly before our departure, we are invited for lunch with Henry and his parents. We met him more than a year ago in San Gil, Colombia. Although we hardly know him, we feel very welcome at his place. Too bad, we already have to move on.
Splendor of colors in Cusco
Eighteen long hours on the bus are predicted for us. But only 25 hours later we arrive in Cusco at 3400 meters above sea level. Exhausted, we decide to rest here for a few days.
Despite an unpleasant headache caused by the too fast ascent, we like the city. Most, if not all (others), visitors to the UNESCO World Heritage Site come here to marvel at the famous Machu Picchu.
We don't. For us, the one to two-day tour is too expensive at the moment. Above all, we want to take a little break from traveling here. Who asks us if we went, we lie, fearing scolding and disgrace.
We are content to stroll through the beautiful alleys of the old town, to taste interesting dishes at the colorful markets, and, of course, to admire the many indigenous people with their wrinkled faces, colorful clothes, and long black braids.
Titicaca - La Paz - Atacama
A few days later we board the next night bus that takes us to Copacabana on Lake Titicaca in Bolivia. It is the highest navigable lake in the world and the landscape around it is beautiful. But less so than I had hoped for. The small town is almost all hotels, tour offices, and restaurants.
We don't want to take a tour to Isla del Sol, legend has it that it was the place of origin of the Incas, or to the Floating Islands, the islands on the lake handmade from reeds by the indigenous people, the Urus. Too touristy. Too stale.
Instead, the trip continues the next day. On the three-hour bus ride to La Paz, we wished we had our own ride. To stop. To take pictures. To see and to marvel. Again and again, the huge Lake Titicaca emerges in blue, sometimes Caribbean green hues between the barren mountains.
The sight during the entry into the big city shocks me. Everything in this area is built of cheap, rust-colored bricks. Only as we jolt down into the center into a massive valley basin does La Paz become interesting. From here, a northern district, you can look out over the rest of the city. In the distance towers the snow-capped, 6500 meters high Illimani.
For two days we walk through the tourist core of La Paz. The same applies as in Cusco: you should come here with an empty backpack and a full wallet. Ponchos, jackets, sweaters, socks, pants, caps, and gloves in all colors and patterns, mostly made of llama or alpaca wool... Here you can find the most beautiful winter clothes.
After a total of three days in Bolivia, we continue towards the Chilean border. As ugly, bare, and construction sites overloaded as the first part, of the drive is - from La Paz to Oruro -, so fabulously beautiful is the route to the border. Again, too bad we can't stop. The moon-like desert landscape, its salt pans, and the prairies, where countless llamas and sheep graze, urge us to do so. The bus driver, however, takes his schedule seriously.
After 23 hours on the bus, we enter the oasis of San Pedro de Atacama. We have reached our stage destination; two weeks after leaving California, five days before Seraina's parents arrive.
These days we will relax, set no alarm clocks, gaze at the stars and soak up the warmth in this little desert village. Soon enough, we'll set off again, through the salt-encrusted plains of the Atacama and Uyuni, back to the cool heights of Bolivia's altiplanos. This time, however, in the company of the (in-law) parents.
Atacama - Uyuni - Cochabamba - La Paz - Iquique
With Esther and Roland, whom we received in San Pedro in Chile, we explored by private tour first the Atacama desert and then the many differently colored lagoons in the Altiplano of Bolivia. Afterward, we descended from over 4500m.a.s.l. to Uyuni, where we crossed the largest salt lake in the world.
In Uyuni, a small desert town that lives from the salt and lithium of the salt lake, we took the bus via Potosí to Sucre, the white city. Sucre and La Paz are both capital of Bolivia. It is a pretty city where you can sit in parks or cafes and watch people in a warm climate. Unless you have to pull your wisdom teeth like Simon, which is not the most pleasant pastime for most people.
Later, we wanted to experience some jungle together and drove via Cochabamba (a loooong, jerky night bus ride) from about 2700m down to 300m to Villa Tunari, where we visited a wildlife sanctuary. However, we couldn't stand the hot and humid temperatures for long.
The next day we were already back in Cochabamba, from where we later boarded a bus to La Paz. Another drive through the barren highlands of Bolivia, on winding roads past children begging along the roadside, countless piles of broken glass and crosses testifying to fatal accidents, and fascinating wide open spaces at more than 4000m above sea level.
We all liked La Paz. Good food, the colorful markets, the excursion to the Tiwanaku ruins....
To avoid sitting in the bus for another 15 hours, we decided to fly from La Paz to Iquique, our last common destination. Back in Chile, we enjoyed the days at the beach until finally Roland and Esther said goodbye to us and started their way back to Switzerland.
Continuing to Peru
We, on the other hand, traveled up to Peru the same day, where prices are much more tolerable than in Chile. We spent Christmas in Arequipa, which is adorned by picturesque volcanoes in the background.
Slowly we are now traveling up to Lima. The last time, for now, we spend a few days on the beach, where they created enormous noise on New Year's Eve, even here in the small village of Chala.
South America Tour 2013-15
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South America Tour 2013-15
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Part IX:
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