Mindfulness Retreat Wat Suan Mokkh
Is the Suan Mokkh Mindfulness Retreat something for me?
If you've never attended a meditation retreat before, let me clarify a few things:
- You will have to accept fatigue, boredom, back and leg pain from sitting on the floor for long periods and from sleeping on a hard wooden or concrete bed.
- You will have the urge to talk to your fellow meditators, but you may not.
- And above all, you must surrender to the fact that you will not be able to completely silence your incessantly chattering mind. It will be a challenging but rewarding work on yourself .
So, are you ready and can you
- get up every morning at 4 am?
- sit still for hours every day?
- listen to Dharma (=dhamma) talks (the teachings of the Buddha, delivered in English) day after day?
- get only 2 meals a day, the last at 1 pm?
- be part of a community with strict rules for 10 days?
- sleep on a hard surface for 11 nights?
- go on a daily roller coaster ride of emotions?
Then, I strongly recommend taking this journey. It may sound hard - it is, you must have a strong will and energy - but you will leave the temple a different person.
Note that Wat Suan Mokkh offers a mindfulness retreat. Neither is it a vacation nor a rehab. If you're not serious or suffer from addictions you can't control, you're better off not participating.
The Rules
The 8 principles of Buddhism:
- Do not kill (including mosquitoes, centipedes, scorpions, snakes and other creatures you may encounter on the site).
- Do not steal
- No sexual activities
- Do not lie
- No intoxicants (no alcohol, no smoking, no drugs, no coffee).
- No food between lunch and breakfast
- No singing, dancing, playing/listening to music, no perfumes, no cosmetics, no adornments.
- No sleeping in comfortable beds
Other rules:
No reading, no writing, no jogging or other exercises, do not leave the premises of the meditation center.
What method of meditation is taught in Suan Mokkh?
It is called Anapanasati or Mindful Breathing. You focus on your breath entering and leaving your body.
Is it a silent retreat?
Yes. This means that you are not allowed to talk to each other. From day 3 to 6 you can participate in private interviews with teachers and monks on issues related to Buddhism and meditation practice. On the evening of the 10th day, there will be a public sharing. If you wish, you can share your feelings and experiences of the last 10 days with your fellow meditators.
In addition, you will listen to various teachers lecture on the Buddha's insights: how to live a Buddhist life, living in the present moment, and of course, the practice of Anapanasati meditation. There are about 4-5 of these talks per day.
Who participates in the Suan Mokkh Mindfulness Retreat?
The majority are foreigners from all over the world; most of them Americans, Europeans, but also Asians, including some Thais. In January 2019, we were about 130 people. Females and males have a fairly equal share.
Most are first-timers but there are always a few "old friends" who have been to Wat Suan Mokkh before.
What you should bring along
There are only a handful of things you might want to bring:
- A few comfortable clothes (women should cover their shoulders and upper arms, no skirts. And men, long pants only). Remember that the climate in southern Thailand is mostly hot and humid .
- Mosquito repellent
- Bathing suits for the hot springs. Although the dormitories for men and women are separated and there are shower blocks, you are not allowed to shower naked.
- Towel
- Toiletries
- Toilet paper
- Soap for body and clothing. Biodegradable, all the water flows into the ground.
- A yoga mat can be handy for sleeping and for morning yoga classes (mats for indoor use are provided).
- Comfortable shoes like flip flops or alike.
- Umbrella or rain poncho
- Flashlight or a lighter for the candle lantern
- 2000 Baht, payable on the first day. This is considered a donation that covers the entire cost of the retreat.
What you should not bring
- Food
- Cigarettes, alcohol, drugs
- Coffee, tea
Provided are
- Very basic private room
- Blanket
- Filtered water
- Candle lantern
- Clothesline
- Vegetarian, often vegan food
- Wooden seats, mats and cushions to sit in the meditation hall.
What does a typical day in Wat Suan Mokkh look like?
4 am: The monastery bell rings
4:30 am: Morning reading and group meditation.
5.15 am: Yoga/Taiji exercises. Either guided or for yourself.
7 am: Dhamma talk and sitting meditation
8 am: Breakfast and chores*.
10 am: Dhamma talk
11 am: Walking or standing meditation
11.45 am: Group sitting meditation
12.30 pm: Lunch and chores*.
2.30 pm: Dhamma talk and sitting meditation
3.30 pm: Walking, standing or sitting meditation
4.15 pm: Group sitting meditation
5 pm: Chanting and Loving-Kindness Meditation
6 pm: Tea/hot chocolate and time for the hot springs
7.30 pm: Group sitting meditation
8 pm: Group walking meditation
8.30 pm: Group sitting meditation
9 pm: Bedtime (gates close at 9.15)
9.30 pm: Light off
*Chores:
Community tasks:
Everyone must choose a community task, such as raking leaves and sand in and around the meditation rooms and dorms, cleaning floors, foot baths, and toilets.
Personal tasks: Laundry, shower.
Special days
Day 0 - Registration day
Arrive on the last day of the month to get registered before 3 pm,to be interviewed* and to sign up for a chore. Bring your valuables (cell phone, music player, computer, wallet, passport) to the front desk for safekeeping. Make sure you keep about 500 Thai Baht with you in case you need to buy something in the small shop in the dining room (open daily 1 - 1.30 pm). They sell towels and Fishermen's Pants, mosquito repellent, toothpaste, toilet paper, etc.
The rest of the day you can walk through the Meditation area, get settled in your room and talk to other participants.
4 pm: Welcome-Dhamma talk
5 pm: Site visit
7.15 pm: After the questions and answers: beginning of silence
*Interview: Everyone is asked some informal questions about their intentions, what they expect from the retreat if they feel fit and healthy for the next 10 days.
Day 9
No Dhamma talks that day. Only meditation.Only one meal. On this day you shall experience a typical day of a Buddhist monk.
Day 10
Slight modifications. Exchange:Anyone who wants can share their experience of the last 10 days.
Day 11
4:00 - 5:15 am: The day begins as usual.
5.15 am: Packing and cleaning the rooms
5.45 am: Pick up valuables. End of silence
7 am: End of the retreat
8 am: Optional breakfast at the main monastery.
9:30 a.m.: Optional lecture and guided tour in the "Spiritual Theater" in the main monastery.
How to get to Wat Suan Mokkh
The nearest village is Chaiya, 6 km north of the main monastery. The city of Surat Thani is about 55 km to the south. The International Dharma Hermitage (IDH) is located about 1.5 km east of the main monastery, across the main road.
From Bangkok you can get a night bus to Surat Thani, get off at the main monastery in Chaiya, from where you can walk the 1.5 km to IDH or take a motorbike/taxi outside the main monastery gates.
However, it is more convenient to book a bed in a night train to Chaiya. From Chaiya station, take a songthaew (shared cab) for 20 baht and get off at the main monastery. Or take a private car/taxi/motorbike which costs about 100-150 baht and takes you directly to the IDH of the monastery.
Arriving from Surat Thani, take a bus north towards Chumporn and tell the attendant that you want to get off at Wat Suan Mokkh in Chaiya.
From Surat Thani airport you can take public transportation (about 1 hour) to the main monastery or take a cab directly to IDH.
Best time to visit Wat Suan Mokkh
During the high season (December - April) it can get quite crowded, while in the low season (rainy season) between June and November it is quiet and peaceful. On the Suan Mokkh IDH page you can find a nice diagram:

Conclusion
To go on this inner journey takes some conviction and willpower. Certainly, for some, this 10-day silent retreat can feel like it doesn't want to end.
But once disconnected from the outside world - no calls, emails, etc. - and knowing you have time just for you has a calming, peaceful effect that you don't want to stop.
Experience something special in these 10 days in Thailand and dare to leave your comfort zone and return to a lifestyle of simplicity and relaxation. If you try, you will surely be rewarded.
Any questions? Write us an e-mail or leave a comment here.
Exactly one year ago, I left Suan Mokkh Monastery in Thailand's south after a 10-day meditation retreat. It was a very special and appropriate way to start an eventful year.
I remember as I tried to find sleep on my wooden bunk, hearing firecrackers faintly in the distance, heralding the beginning of 2019.
I turned over again and tried to ignore the pain in my hip from the hard bed. Soon enough I would have to get up. And indeed, punctually at 4 a.m., the gong sounded, which was to send us on the journey of inner peace, but also an emotional roller coaster ride.
The day before we had to hand in all our cell phones, computers, music players, etc. so that we would not be tempted to distract ourselves with entertainment. So that we remained with ourselves every moment in the following 10 days, taking in every single breath.
Books and stationery were not welcome either. However, I could not hand over my entire travel backpack with all my clothes and books. So I took it with me to my cell. And of course, I also had a little bit of Andreas Altmann in mind, who wrote in Triffst du Buddha, töte ihn (If you meet Buddha, kill him) that he violated only one rule during his ten-day retreat in India. Every night before going to bed, he wrote in his diary. Every other addiction or rule he could endure: Nicotine, caffeine, not speaking for ten days... But not the refrain from writing.

So I also had my little travel diary at hand and wrote a few lines when I found time during my lunch break or in the evening.
Reading through my journal now, I notice a few things:
- that back and leg pain kept me very busy
- that the emotional ups and downs could change from hour to hour
- that the monkey mind is untamable (by this I mean the permanent rambling of my mind)
- and that too much was talked about Buddhism and its favorite topic "Dhukka" (the suffering of mankind).
It all sounds pretty negative now. Nevertheless, it was a very special experience that I wouldn't want to miss. On the contrary, I want to do it again. Because when does our mind ever get a break in our hectic world? When do we ever concentrate on dissolving the eternal stream of thoughts in our heads?
For ten days, that was possible. Nothing to think about. Nothing that I still had to do. Completely isolated from the outside world, we were left to ourselves. For most people probably unimaginable, even frightening.
I would now like to bring you a little closer to my experiences, thoughts, and feelings by showing you excerpts from my diary. In between, I might have to explain a few things. Let's see...
Day 1 - Evening
Question: "How do you feel today?"
Answer: "There is no You at all. Just as there is no I. Only breathless breathing. Uh, I mean, breath without breathers. But if there were an I and a You, I'd invite you over for a few beers and some good music. And after that, I'd find me a pretty girl for the night."
On the first long day already I have thoughts about giving up. Especially this speech in the Dhamma Talks (Buddhist teachings that we get to hear every day) about "Suffering" is not quite my cup of tea.
If I only could do the lotus position, it would be more pleasant.
I think a lot about home, about everything else you could do but be here now.
Of course, I continue. I wonder where this will lead?
(The first paragraph is probably a joke my mind told me while sitting for hours. The first day was long and hard. I just wanted to get away from there. And yet, curiosity prevailed. What else would come?)
Day 2
Not easier. But shorter.
Sitting is the most difficult thing at the moment. I can't concentrate because of the constant leg and back pain. Standing is better.
Day 3
Again, I get far too little sleep. We're indeed in bed by half-past nine. But I always wake up, rolling on the hard wooden board. Always once a night on the pot. I dream. Of people I know. Of home.
In the morning my legs and back hurt. In the afternoon I can focus a little better and control my thoughts a little from time to time.
I've found a middle ground between standing and sitting that seems to work. Now it's just a matter of "breathe in, breathe out." Eventually, it will work. No expectations. Patience.

Day 4
Despite little sleep, the day starts quite promisingly. I feel in a good mood, focused. After breakfast, I jump briefly into the hot springs (yes, the monastery has its own hot springs!). Even the thunderstorm doesn't bother me.
Then suddenly the mood tips. In the "Happy Hour" chanting-hour (there I mean the Loving Kindness meditation class we had daily at 5 p.m.).. Der Monkey Mind wirkt gerade zu böswillig. Zuviel Geschwafel über Dhukka, Love & Happiness. Sie (the Buddhist nun who leads the lesson) has nothing useful to say, always giggles stupidly.
Others seem to feel the same way, too. They don't participate, they lie around lazily.
The first two have fled today. Although you may leave the retreat early only for serious reasons, they probably could not stand it any longer.
Patience is put to the test. How on the same day the mood can tip from "I'm already looking forward to the next meditation lesson!" to "Enough with the religious Buddhist bliss, I need something else again!".
Good. So I have understood that. Nothing remains but to turn off the mind and to be back on the mat at the next gong. Whether it whirls the trees around our heads outside or not (a two-day tropical storm was approaching)..
And of course, the thoughts can't be turned off after all. What should I do when I get out of here? What should I do when I'm back home? Offer meditation in Aarau together with Bowen, massage, Taiji? (I was thinking about starting a massage training at the time).With Chris (my yogi friend) I could open a farm retreat. Wouldn't that be something!
From today's teachings:
How to focus on the breath?
- Consciously take long breaths, consciously take short breaths. Feel the difference. Count the seconds on the inhale and make the exhale the same length. If you can do that, then
- Trace the breath as it flows in toward the nose, down to the tops of the lungs, and back until it leaves your body through the nose. Repeat this constantly. If you can do that, then
- With each breath, concentrate on one point, preferably the tip of the nose. Always feel the breath at that point. If it's easier, so you don't digress, count each breath to ten and then start over. If you can do that, then
- See/feel a white sphere in front of your third eye (it can resemble the sun, the moon, or a candle flame). Eyes can be closed or open. Feel/see this sphere with each breath. If it works, you can start to play with it. Change its size, shape, color, etc.
(These are the first 4 of the 16 steps of Anapanasati or Mindfulness Breathing Meditation. If I remember correctly, by step 16 you are already quite enlightened)
The 4 hindrances
Explanations for the table below:
1st row: The images. The mind is pure, clear water that is stirred up by desires and feelings.
2nd row: Explanation of the hindrance
3rd row: What method can I use to overcome the hindrance?
I feel that the 3rd hindrance (restlessness and inertia) is my biggest problem.
|
Sensual desires |
Bad will,Anger |
Restlessness, Inertia |
Doubt |
|---|---|---|---|
|
Turbid water |
Boiling water |
Water stirred up by the wind |
Algae water |
|
Comfort you miss |
Anger, rage you feel |
Lack of concentration due to restlessness and inertia |
Doubt about life/way of life |
|
Long breaths |
Loving Kindness Meditation |
Long breaths, counting breaths |
All 4 breathing techniques |
Day 5 - What a day!
The morning progresses quite as desired, then, after breakfast and a bath in the hot springs, nothing works. I'm dog-tired and can't concentrate.
Should I really continue to put up with this humbug? It would be so easy to stop. And then the big red ants attack me when we are trying to clear away a tree felled by the storm. I've never been so full of critters! In my hair, on my scalp, everywhere they have bitten.
A natural head massage. Which not all of them survived. Remember the first rule? (the 1st fundamental rule of Buddhism: Do not kill)..
Then - lo and behold - after a short midday nap, it went slowly but steadily uphill up to the "happy hour" which was nice today.
I had small insights today. Like, "When I eat, I eat." doesn't mean that I should think "I'm eating" when I eat, but that I should consciously feel the activity of eating, the sensation of it. Mindful eating.
Well, this is nothing new, but the meaning became clear to me again.
Taming the monkey mind remains hard; it's tough. So get back to the bacon and keep practicing!

Day 6 - Is there more to come?
Somehow the air is out a little. Not even a week I'm here and already routine has crept in. Live the Now! Dhukka here and joyful being happy there.
The Monkey Mind remains, as does the back and leg pain. What do we learn? Patience!
Be patient, keep going.
Do it the Buddhist way: Without expectations, but with effort, success comes by itself.
They say. Four days to go. So hang in there and keep going.
Note: Pema Chödrön: "The Widsom of No Escape."
Day 7
Hot days, today and yesterday. Three more!
Learn: be patient, practice discipline, let go of your ego.
The thoughts can't be turned off. The pain doesn't just go away. Accept that.
Where should I go after the retreat? Australia? Taiwan? Yes, making plans for the future again.
Meditation tip: Try to pick up a thought that arises and continue to spin it willfully/actively. Practice this for 1 minute, then 5 minutes, then an hour... It's almost impossible. I concentrate on the thought so much that the head stays empty! Is this reverse psychology or what?
A comparison: The mind = anthill
Day 8 - The Master has spoken
I ask Suphol, my favorite teacher, what I should do about the constant pain. He advises me to always change position when the pain becomes too great. It's not all about sitting. If you can only sit for ten minutes, get up.
To his closest disciple, Buddha said that he was too attached to him, Buddha, he should let go. Later, this same disciple was enlightened when he changed his position. Ok.
Modesty is something else that I can take with me from here. Be it in eating, drinking, and all other consumption.
Be friendly and calm.
But the whole Buddha and Dhukka talk gets on my nerves. We are not a cult here. That's why someone said that this retreat is a bit "cultish".
Nevertheless, one can overlook it. I believe, even though they say that you can't have one without the other (where Buddhism is the theory, meditation is the practice of that theory), that you can meditate to become calmer, to understand certain principles of life, and to find a balance for yourself. And to live more often in the Now.
Imagine a completely Buddhist world. Everything is peace, joy, and happiness. Sounds boring? Sounds impossible?
Everyone would have to live Buddhism fully. From the outside, it's a pretty dead world. They are all hale and hearty, practice yoga and Taiji, never insult each other, consume almost nothing. And of course, they meditate ten hours a day. No music - but chanting, no dance - but walking meditation, no fire, because that is extinguished.
And no soft pillows and beds. After all, a board and a wooden pillow under your head will do just as well.
And they say here that this is the only true way.
Once again, I find a middle ground between this Buddhism and ordinary life the more suitable.
One thing is certain: A good breeze of Buddhism would help this world a lot. Away from blind consumption and materialism. Less is more. Again and again.

Day 9 - Day of silence
We are on our own today. It almost feels like an exam. No Dhamma talks, only meditation.
It is a beautiful day without boring, tedious talking and having to listen. But the day is also exhausting. After nine long days, I feel really tired. In addition, my back aches, I hardly sit down.
But tomorrow we already have the last round. So let's enjoy the perfect world in here once again.
Counting to 100, I can focus well on my breath for a while.
I diligently practice Taiji, sitting, standing, walking. And yet my monkey mind triumphs again and again.
What do I take with me?
- Something to work on: Meditation
- I have discipline, but I need to work on patience
- Modesty, I always have to remind myself of it anew
- Put the past and future in the background more often, live more in the present. This keeps the mind sharp.
Day 10 - Last day
I am not very motivated anymore. I have trouble concentrating. Instead, I've been practicing Taiji, which is very nice out here.
Then once again, we eat really well (the lunches were always first class!), once again a hot chocolate instead of tea for dinner.
Of course, it also creates dukkha/suffering to look forward to these things, I know.
But yes, I have heard enough of dukkha, Buddhadassa, Ubatanda, kandas, and the Prison of Life (as described in today's Dhamma Talk) for my lifetime. "We all live in a spiritual prison. Whether we are aware of it or not. And we want to break out," they said.
Everything has such a negative tinge. Give up the positive and only meditate and live abstinently? I don't think so. I prefer to live with the negative. Excitement is acceptable.
Of course, it would be healthier for the body and mind. But for the soul? It needs excitement, fun. And chocolate!
In the end, they put us to work for another two hours. Raking leaves = meditation during work.
Tonight we get to have a public exchange. Let's see if anyone has anything to say. And whether it sounds similar to what I'm thinking right now.
The "public sharing" was eye-opening! Nonstop people were talking. Beautiful how they poured out their hearts. We heard life stories that included terrible experiences, like suicide attempts and sexual abuse. We heard touching things that can change lives. We heard happy, content, and also crying people.
And me with my negative thoughts! I often see only the bad in things instead of enjoying the beautiful. I lock myself up, which makes me unhappy. Dukkha and again dukkha. Some people like to suffer. Apparently, I haven't understood it yet.
How serious life is for certain people. How meaningful it can be.
Open up! Allow it! Accept it! See the beautiful side of the world. Also in the people. Do with pleasure what you do. Do what you like to do!
Once again I let myself drift. But mindfully. Open to new things, open to the world, open to people. Friends, not enemies. Now and here.
Whew, thanks, that was revealing.
I have a great desire to add another ten days of meditation right away!
Satu, satu, satu.

Finally, I would like to mention that the things written in my diary are snapshots of my life at that time. My attitude has changed since then. Towards Buddhism, which I don't always let off lightly, and also towards the retreat, which in my eyes could do some things better, but all in all does a valuable job, almost entirely voluntary, and gives us space and time and guidance to reflect on ourselves. I am very grateful for that and still draw strength from it today.
Since then, I have often talked about my experiences. Quite a few people responded respectfully and with wide eyes that they thought it was great, but couldn't imagine being alone with themselves for ten days. "I'll never last that long with myself!"
My answer to that remains the same: "That's what it's all about. It is an art to endure yourself. Learn to bear with yourself, to be alone with yourself. And reap the resulting serenity, balance, and kindness."
Probably not everybody needs to meditate to feel better and healthier. But it would help everyone, the individual as well as humanity.
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2 Comments
Jens Kaufmann
Hallo interessiere mich für ein Retreat. Wie und wo kann ich mich dafür anmelden bzw. dieses buchen?
Danke Euch für ein Feedback.
VG Jens
Simon
Hallo Jens
Es sind schon einige Jahre her seit dem Retreat, aber ich denke, das läuft noch immer gleich ab. D.h. einfach am Vorabend oder morgen früh am Tag, wann es beginnt, anreisen und sich eintragen. Keine Anmeldung nötig bzw. möglich.
Alle Infos findest du auf der Website von Suan Mokkh https://www.suanmokkh-idh.org/