El Salvador,  Epic Journey 2016-18,  Guatemala

Unknown El Salvador

El Salvador - Epic Journey 2016-18 Part IV

Palomino

It's been almost three months since we started organizing and building the house. Our permit to stay in Colombia is expiring and we are also absolutely ready for a vacation. Working every day from morning till night is hard, even if it is like paradise here, where the fruits fall into your mouth, or as they say here: we live at the teat of mother earth. We also work here on Saturdays, at least until two o'clock in the afternoon. After that, we usually have enough to organize so that we can continue working on Monday without interruption. We try to reserve Sunday as a day off, if possible. We then do what we should have done long ago: To explore the beautiful Palomino and the surrounding area, the jungle-like forest of the Sierra Nevada as well as the wide rivers. But still: The time is ripe for a vacation!

Unser Ländchen Ende Dezember 2016
Our piece of land end of December 2016
Und Anfang März 2017
And beginning of March 2017

After a lot of thinking and comparing airfares, we came up with the idea to take a bus from El Salvador to Guatemala. We don't know El Salvador at all and Guatemala we have visited about six years ago and it stayed in our good memories (see Guatemala January - March 2011). El Salvador is the neighboring country of Guatemala and currently has the cheapest flight offer. By bus, it is only about 5 hours to Guatemala.


The trip is booked and we set off. But we are not in a hurry. The whole thing should take one month. Before we take the flight to Santa Marta, two hours away from Palomino, we visit Minca. The village surrounded by nature is located 600 meters above Santa Marta. The forest around Minca is full of plants and animals, mainly birds, of all kinds. One can hardly get enough of walking there.

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Taganga is the next place we visit, just outside Santa Marta by the sea. The pure opposite. The small fishing village, today very touristic and apart from the Tayrona National Park the most known place in the area, is hot, barren, and absolutely waterless. A desert area where only cacti and scrawny trees grow. The wind sweeps the fish from your fork while you are eating, but you are still grateful for the cooling. We visit our old friend Miguel, enjoy a beautiful sunset, and move on to Santa Marta.

Sonnenuntergang in Minca
Sunset in Minca
From Santa Marta we fly to Bogota where we spend one night to fly to San Salvador the next day. Without our friends Mauricio and Vivi, Bogota is not very spectacular. The air is fresh, yet not as cold as we remembered. The expensive skyscrapers, stores, the clean streets, as well as the fast food chains remind us of Europe or the USA. What I personally like in Bogota are the numerous walls full of graffiti of the finest kind, as well as the sweet smell of rebellion that the city with yet so many universities brings.
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Unknown El Salvador

 
We fly to El Salvador with Avianca - statistically one of the most dangerous airlines in the world, but for our taste much better than other airlines. Arriving in San Salvador, the capital of El Salvador, we have at first absolutely no plan of where to go. One option is to drive to the more touristy town of Santa Ana or to stay one night in San Salvador. However, we have no idea in which part of this huge city the hotels are located. We can still decide, first we have to drive from the airport to the city center anyway. We have informed ourselves and know that instead of the overpriced cabs there is also a microbus to the city. Walking away from the airport, we have to ask for directions every few meters again. But there the bus is already coming towards us. We wave, it stops and we grab the last space on the bus, which is overcrowded with people. The ride starts. It is hot, we smell the lack of personal hygiene. The people are unusually friendly. We feel welcome and comfortable from the first moment. Hilly forests, as far as the eye can see, pass us by. A seat becomes available and since this is probably a country of gentlemen, I am immediately offered the seat. I sit down and feel happy.
 
A young Salvadoran, who I have already noticed because he always moves a little closer to us full of interest, but has probably not yet approached us out of shyness, now begins a conversation with Simon. He lives in the center of San Salvador and knows where we can find cheap hotels. When we arrive at the terminal by bus, Alexander leads us through the city. He is reserved and very concerned about our well-being. The mafia is very strong here. Everyone with some property as well as all businesses has to give a part of their money to the gang that rules the neighborhood. In addition, there are often wars between the gangs. He fears that we could also become victims. We feel as safe as in any other city. However, we like the way he shows us his city: the market, the local food and he also helps us to find a cheap hotel.
Alexander
Alexander

We sit together in the spacious hotel room, eat bananas, and chat. Alex asks us if we would like to visit his aunt and her family. "Otherwise no one will believe that I met Swiss people," he adds with a laugh. The aunt lives in southeastern El Salvador on the border with Honduras. He shows us pictures of the vast landscape and the Sapo River. It looks beautiful. We don't want to miss such an opportunity and we agree. Immediately he calls his aunt and tells her that he met two Swiss and would now like to invite them to her place. "You're kidding!" the aunt says incredulously. We have her approval. Early the next morning, the journey is to begin. On the flight from Santa Marta to Bogota, we were only allowed to bring one carry-on bag. Our small luggage is comfortable to carry and quickly ready for the trip. At half-past seven in the morning, Alex is standing in front of the door. We take the bus to San Miguel and from there to Corintho. Arriving after a four-hour bus ride, we take a break, spontaneously visit an ancient cave and eat delicious tacos with soy meat. Finally, we take a moto-taxi over the last few hills out into the countryside. Here is the end of the line. We continue on foot over hill and dale and after an hour we reach the house of the aunt. She comes to meet us and greets us warmly. We sit down and rest our tired feet.

In der Höhle
In the cave

Vor dem Lehmhaus wimmelt es von Küken und Hühnern. Im Schlafraum vergnügen sich die beiden Jüngsten der Familie in der Hängematte sitzend, spielend und über die Gaukeleien von Tom & Jerry lachend.

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In the kitchen a big fire is burning, well-fed with wood by the eldest daughter. On the table is a bowl full of soaked corn kernels next to the meat grinder. They are crushed into a coarse pulp with this, then ground into a fine corn dough on a stone slab with a wall stone. They are crushed into a coarse pulp with this, then ground into a fine corn dough on a stone slab with a wall stone. Tortillas are formed and baked in the pan over the fire.

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Soon the men return from the fieldwork, the father of the children, as well as uncle and grandfather, and the two older sons. When the younger one, about 8 years old, spots us, he makes big eyes, backs away, and slips nimbly like a cat behind the next screen. During the next hour, I meet his staring eyes again and again, when by chance I look in his direction, and each time he slowly slips back behind the wall, where he can no longer be seen.

Seraina und der Grossvater am Wandern
Seraina and the grandfather while on a hike

The aunt laughingly tells us that we are the very first foreigners in her house since she was born here. Tourists are also rare in the area, the last time a Spaniard had been in the area was about 15 years ago to help them through his organization. The state often forgets about this area, they are glad for the help of the NGOs. So, about 4 years ago they received an electricity connection, some solar panels, and the first and only road to Corintho was built.

Die Familie führt uns durch ihr Land
Everything that is put on the table here is grown by the people themselves. Meat is therefore rarely available, and when it is, it is mainly chicken. Two cows give the family milk and homemade cheese. To earn a few dollars, the aunt weaves hammocks.
Am Fluss Sapo
On the river Sapo

They tell us many things and want to know even more about us. The mood is relaxed and we laugh a lot. The little ones know no shyness and explain all their toys to me.

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They have a whole bucket full of them. The 8-year-old has also become somewhat accustomed to us in the meantime. Soon we go to sleep, all in the same room, each in his hammock.

The following day we wake up refreshed. Curious, we set off in the direction of the river. On the way, we pass the house of the uncle and his family as well as that of the grandparents. We stop at both of them and are accompanied to the river. They show us the fruit trees, let us taste sugar cane sticks, and explain to us how to preserve corn and beans.

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We enjoy the time we are allowed to spend with the family and are extremely grateful to Alex for inviting us here, even though we hardly know each other.

Auch Alex staunt über sein Land, El Salvador
Alex also marvels at his country, El Salvador
We arrived in El Salvador only three days ago, and already we have seen and experienced so much of this country.
On the way back from the family's house to the bus stop, we are also lucky enough to watch the production of panela from cane sugar juice.

Guatemala

In Guatemala, we plan to change our plans, and instead of traveling here and there in a short time, we rent a hotel room with a terrace in San Pedro, from where we enjoy an enchanting view over Lago Atitlán.
Here we stay for 10 days, taking walks around the lake and visiting the hot springs of Zunil near Xela.
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We still like San Pedro very much, which has changed little in the last 6 years, and time flies.

Already we are driving back to El Salvador, where we make the last stop at the surf beach El Tunco. In a few days, we will be back at our construction site in Palomino. Rested and with new vigor.

Epic Journey 2016-18

Back to Part III:

Epic Journey 2016-18

Forward to Part V:

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