Albania,  Balkan

Work & Holiday in Albania

Introduction

Memories of our last trip to Albania, two winters ago, are still vivid. Back then, this fascinating country impressed us deeply with its friendly population and the untouched beauty of its landscapes. We were almost the sole tourists venturing the roads of Albania at that time.

However, now, in late September, the situation has changed. It seems like every second vehicle is a camper, and about 90% of them sport German license plates. This new reality required some adjustment of our expectations, for the idyllic places that were once almost deserted are now much livelier

Now, as October unfolds, the camper swarm has thinned out a bit, and we can once again feel more of the original magic.

But enough of the preamble. Let's review the route, a lot has happened in a short time.

Germany – Mountains in Bavaria

The first leg is only 100km long. It ends in St. Gallen, where we visit our friends at "Rümpeltum". After a warm gathering by the fire, we continue our journey into Germany.

And Germany welcomes us with open... well, highways. At least until Munich. Then it's off to the mountains near Berchtesgaden, where we rest by a babbling brook.

Austria – In the Mist of the Alps

The next day takes us to Austria, inviting us to dream with its picturesque Alps and forests. The fog creates a mysterious aura, as if the mountains are gradually revealing their secrets.

The rain doesn't dampen our enthusiasm, for the stretch between St. Gallen and Mariazell (yes, both in Austria) takes us through stunning, cloud-covered forest and mountain landscapes, reminiscent of British Columbia or Washington State.

The next two nights, we spend with my parents, who are currently on vacation in Hainburg on the Danube.

Slovakia – Bratislava and the Danube

The next day, the four of us visit Bratislava. The city certainly has a lot to offer, but it doesn't captivate us too much, being the country bumpkins we are.

However, we can't resist taking a short stroll around the ruins of Devin just outside the city. A delicious beer and the view of the gently flowing river soothe the soul.

Hungary – Rest by the Danube

Our journey continues to Hungary. After a long day on the road, we settle by the river, surrounded by the relaxed atmosphere of the waters. Here, we spend a peaceful night.

Hungary didn't exactly captivate us in that one day. We're curious to see how Serbia will welcome us.

Serbia – Heartfelt Welcome, unscrupulous Good-byes

In Serbia, we are greeted by border officers with humor, giving us a glimpse of Slavic joie de vivre. The sun is shining, and in Novi Grad by the Danube, we observe the lively hustle and bustle in cafes and parks.

We briefly consider spending a night here. Many bars and restaurants entice us, but we decide to continue our journey.
Good decision! We meet Lili, who runs a private camping an hour and a half south of Novi Grad. Hazelnut trees provide shade, and it's a plum brandy paradise. Lili warmly welcomes us. We're the only ones here and enjoy a quiet night in seclusion.
Am nächsten Tag fahren wir entlang des bosnisch-serbischen Grenzflusses Drin weiter Richtung Montenegro. Hier könnten wir gerne etwas länger verweilen, aber Gaby & Urs erwarten uns bereits in Albanien.
Then, at the border, Serbia presents its negative highlight, leaving a bitter taste: Exiting Serbia, we are pulled aside. Not unusual in itself.
But what happens next is. A female officer takes Seraina and her backpack to thoroughly search her. Meanwhile, I'm left alone with two officers.
They enter the camper; the younger one instructs, the slightly older one half-heartedly rummages through a drawer or two. They speak Serbian, I haven't a clue what they are on about.
Broken English: "How much money you have?" I show my and Seraina's wallets, lying in the glove compartment. I think nothing is wrong, I have nothing to hide.
he older one draws the curtain, I have to lay the notes, almost 200 euros, on the bed. They discuss back and forth, stern faces.
It slowly dawns on me. I try to take the money back, but I'm not allowed.
"What's the problem?" I ask.
"No, no problem," says the older one. The younger one: "You have tobacco, marijuana?" I deny. Further discussion in Serbian. They apparently can't agree on how much they want to take from me.
Finally, the younger one says, "Ok, you pay 20 Euros for coffee."
I just want them out, hand 20 Euros to the older one and take the rest back. Seraina and the officer return; they give us back our IDs, and we're on our way. Really, we've never experienced anything like this, not even in Mexico or Colombia. What a shame.

Montenegro – A Bliss in the Mountains

In Montenegro, we enter without further excitement. We buy an M:tel SIM card, promising 500GB for 15 days for 15 Euros. I mention this just so everyone knows: never buy an M:tel SIM card! After 6 or 7GB, it was blocked, credit used up. No customer service, no one wanted to know anything about us. The same happened to Gaby and Urs.

We drive through this breathtaking Montenegrin mountain landscape. Suddenly, we find ourselves on a brand-new, empty Chinese highway, slicing through the mountains. It's mostly downhill, and we make good progress, while the beautiful scenery whizzes by on both sides.

In Podgorica, the sun is scorching. After a short shopping spree, we leave the hot capital behind in a cloud of dust. Off to Albania!

Albania – Like Home

After only five, six hours in Montenegro, we reach our second home in the Balkans: Albania.
We're thrilled to be back. Our Albanian hasn't improved in the meantime, but we still listen joyfully to the familiar sounds of the language.
So, we finally arrive at the campsite on Lake Koman, where we arranged to meet Gaby and Urs months ago. A warm reunion by the lake. We're somewhat surprised to see that many campers have discovered the country.
After a few nights at Lake Koman, we set off for Berat, also known as the "City of Windows". Here, we explore the old town, enjoy local delicacies, and relax at a private campsite.
A quick note about our eight-legged travel companion, Jolanda: The cross spider made herself at home in Hainburg, Austria, above our bed in the camper, and has been faithfully accompanying us since. Apparently, she felt quite comfortable with us, and we even occasionally fed her mosquitoes.
At Lake Koman, we finally wanted to set her free. We found a nice spot for her on a branch by the lakeside. Then, as we set up camp in Berat, Urs suddenly said as he took out the camping table, "Look, she didn't like it at the lake."
Jolanda actually enjoyed our company. As a hitchhiker, she traveled a few hundred kilometers with us to Berat.
But here, we finally said our goodbyes to her. In the morning, we discovered her beautiful new web in a bush. Mirupafshim, Jolanda!
We continue to Gjirokaster. The camping is mediocre, but the city is fascinating. Two years ago in winter, most shops and restaurants were closed. Now it's alive; all restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops attract crowds of tourists.
We find a nice tavern for my birthday dinner.
On the second day in Gjirokaster, Seraina and I wander through the narrow alleys and rocky slopes of the city. We find our restaurant again, which we remember so well from last time. Time for a commemorative photo with the family.
We continue our journey and finally reach Përmet, where Dona and Robert welcome us with wide eyes. Their campsite is busy, but we find a cozy spot. This is the perfect place to bring our online shop idea to life.
After a cold rainy day, which we mostly spend indoors on our PCs (Dona's two kittens have already made themselves comfortable with us), the sunny and warm autumn begins, lasting for the entire remaining time we spend with Dona and Robert.
Gaby and Urs drove on to Greece last week. Where will we meet them again next time?
Meanwhile, we spend many hours on our laptops, and GRAJF.COM is taking shape.
On Sunday, we take a well-deserved break and hike the 15 km around the Langarica Gorge. The hike starts at the thermal springs and leads up the rocky road over the hills. We're constantly treated to stunning views of and into the deep gorge. We didn't expect anything special, but after the three-and-a-half-hour round, we return tired and thrilled to the springs.
And here, it sounds like a public pool! Not only do all the tourists splash around in the thermals, but all Albanians don't want to miss this beautiful Sunday either. Everyone deserves it! We cap off the trip with a delicious lunch at a small restaurant by the river.
After eleven days at the Albturist Ecocamp with Dona and Robert, we're ready to move on. The well-paved road to Korçë surprises us. It leads right through the mountains of southeastern Albania. Harsh, barren, beautiful landscapes. Less surprising is that the good road suddenly turns into gravel halfway. Here, they are building new roads, and we slow our speed to 20-30 km/h. More time to take in the sights.
Seraina flickt den Auspuff unserer Loki
Seraina fixes the exhaust of our Loki.
A day later, we reach Lake Ohrid on the border with North Macedonia and Greece. The Albanians will stay in our memory once again with smiling faces and open arms. A lot is happening in the country right now, roads and hotels are being built, and the tourism industry is being boosted. Next time, Albania will show us a different face. But I'm convinced that hospitality and joy of life will remain untarnished.
And so the journey continues towards North Macedonia and Greece. The unknown beckons — and we're ready to follow it, with a smile on our faces and the wind in our hair!

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