
Loki in full throttle!

North Macedonia
The journey continues along Lake Ohrid. Crossing the border from Albania to North Macedonia is quick, although we have to wait in line for a bit. We are almost the only tourists around.
Shortly afterward, we find the targeted campsite right by the lake. The owner tells us that October marks the beginning of the quiet season. In August, campers would have lined up at the gate to secure a spot as soon as one became available.

We enjoy two peaceful days in the sunny autumn. While Seraina decorates the camper with a treasure map, I savor the sausages gifted by the host.

However, our visit to this country is short-lived. We speed through the Galičica National Park pass to Lake Prespa, spend another night near the Greek border, and are welcomed by one of our favorite countries.

Northern Greece
On Park4night, we discover a splendid campsite provided free of charge by the municipality.

The last time we visited the Meteora Monasteries was ten years ago. Although there were fewer tourists in winter, the impressive rocks with daring ancient buildings atop them are worth a visit.

We spend a few hours hiking through and over the rocks that Zeus himself threw from the heavens.

A German-speaking Greek mentioned that an old James Bond movie was shot here. When we watch it in the evening, we are only moderately impressed. Much more surprising is an even older film I stumble upon on YouTube (are there coincidences in YouTube & Co.'s algorithm?). For those who haven't seen it yet, it's a must-watch: "Tintin and the Golden Fleece„

After visiting Meteora, we once again find a beautiful free spot to spend the night, right next to a river cascading through the forest from waterfall to waterfall. We love these places where we are completely alone amid nature, without ten neighbors like at a campsite.
The next day, we continue our journey south toward Athens. First, we pass through mud masses telling the tale of a catastrophic flood a month ago. Later on the drive, we see burnt forest areas everywhere. Greece, a battered land.

And yet, it's beautiful. We pass by hot springs, and of course, a quick dip is a must. However, in October, the river is almost too hot in the sunshine. The night in the mountains, on the other hand, becomes noticeably cold.

We spend a few days in Athens. Two years ago, we were stranded here for a whole month because the engine malfunctioned. Back then, an old friend, Aggelos, and new friends, Kula and Peter, lent us a helping hand.

We not only enjoyed their hospitality but also benefited from their interpreting skills at the mechanic. That's one of the reasons we love Greece. It opens hearts and brings smiles. Oh, how cheesy. Even if it's just a short visit, we are all happy to see each other again.

Peloponnese
And who is waiting for us on the peninsula? Gaby and Urs, whom we have now caught up with. Joy reigns also at this reunion. Although the two are already heading north again, they decide to join us once more toward Mani, at the very bottom of the Peloponnese Peninsula.

We skipped this part last time. Now we discover what we missed! One spectacular view follows the next! Barren rocks, stony mountains, deep blue sea. And the towers of Mani, which were once used to settle family feuds. Everyone wanted to have the highest tower so that they could throw stones (and grandmothers? See Seraina's map =D). So the towers kept on growing!

Once again, we find ourselves in pole position when we spend the night in a lonely place above the sea. A 5-star hotel can't compete with that.
The next day, just 15 minutes later, we reach the cape, the southernmost point of this journey. Here we spend another night after a hearty Meze feast.
In the following days, we drive north along the west coast, passing through Kalamata. The early risers Gaby and Urs usually lead the way, while we take our time in the mornings and catch up with them in the evenings. An excellent way to travel together.

The last place in Greece where we see each other again is special. We are surrounded by water in a quiet bay near Koronisia, not far from Lefkada.

Gaby and Urs are already gone early in the morning when water also catches up with us from above. A crazy storm begins just as we start driving. It becomes frightening. We tackle the seven or eight kilometers, where a narrow road leads directly over the lagoon.

Everywhere water, wind, thunderstorms. Seraina can hardly see anything as she steers Loki through the storm at 12 miles an hour. But we don't get washed away; a little later, our hearts still pounding, we reach the mainland, and the storm begins to calm.

Albania
We drive to Ioannina, then to Albania, back to our favorite camping spot with Dona and Robert. They are amazed to see us again.

We allow ourselves two nights' rest here. We spend another one in the north of Albania near the beach at an eco-camping site, a very beautiful part of Albania.


Leo, our favorite dog in Albania! 🙂

Montenegro
We move on. Into Montenegro, up the mountains, down to the Bosnian border. Quickly crossing and further into the country. All in one morning.

Bosnia
The country glows beautifully in the setting autumn sun, but there is this policeman.
He waits on a lonely stretch. Holds up his baton, and eventually finds what he's looking for, something to complain about. We lack the CH sticker at the back. That's an 80 Euro fine. 40 if you pay immediately. Sorry, I only have 30. Well then... Have a nice day!

Croatia
It's not a big deal, this encounter. What ruins our morning the following day, however, are the Croatian border guards. Unaware of any wrongdoing, we encounter grandiosity and harassment.
The customs officers stop us. Two of them show off. Being new in the European Union, they have to prove themselves.

"If you have something with you, better say it now. It will cost you less, and we'll let it go. No? But if we find something, you'll pay a 3000 Euro fine and spend two months in prison!" We display our most innocent faces, and even though they threaten us with dogs, drug tests, and even longer imprisonment, we remain stoic. We learned from overenthusiastic border guards in the US. We're not impressed by these Croatian snobs. Twenty minutes later, that's done too.

We enter Croatia without feeling welcome. We take another break at a quiet campsite inland.

North of Split, we meet Gaby and Urs for the last time on this journey. They have just had a few days of olive-harvesting vacation on Brač.

Italy
Early the next morning, we bid them farewell. They head straight to Austria and Switzerland, heading home, as winter is slowly but surely approaching in these parts. We take a slower route through Italy. In Trieste, we stay at a campsite we know from our Alpe-Adria hike. It's nothing special, but still somewhat unique. Many permanent campers live there under the pine trees.

In the restaurant, the Italian nonna conjures up a wonderful fish and seafood dinner for us. Her son serves. And we taste what he serves. He convinced us; we immediately buy a 2-liter bottle of Grappa for 20 Euros.

Although we've already fueled up on Grappa, we visit Bassano del Grappa, the birthplace of Grappa, on the boring back roads between Trieste and Ticino, Switzerland.

We like the place, especially in this sunny winter weather. The sun is low, casting its red glow on the ancient walls. The wooden bridge is at least as beautiful as the one in Olten.

Switzerland
Well, what else is there to say? The last overnight stay in Como. Then back to Switzerland after six weeks. Or was it seven? In any case, Loki endured effortlessly and faced all the passes on the way. 36 years old and not tired yet. We are proud of you! Rest well during your hibernation!

In Switzerland, we have a brief Greek interlude at a concert in Kiff. The Greek band "Villagers of Ioannina City" is playing in Aarau. We booked the tickets in Greece.

This chapter has now come to an end. And the new one has already begun. I'm sitting here in San Gil, Colombia, writing these lines while winter Switzerland lies a week and an eternity behind.
We have a lot planned here. One task is to get our shop GRAJF.COM up and running. We work on it almost daily.

But of course, we are also excited about our Banana Tree. What awaits us in Palomino? We (and you) will find out soon.
But that's a story for another time...


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